Rebuild of modified W. B. Knight mill drill #2 with BP head - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    Cracking effort taking on a mill for a literally the first project. Overall looking pretty good so far and will learn more as you go.

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  3. #42
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    It looks great. You seem to be more experienced than others on a first restoration. You do your homework.
    There appears to be a repair on the casting for the drive shaft in this picture. Right by the rear bearing/bushing boss. It may have tipped over and broke at some time in it's history.
    Repairs like that are not unusual in old machinery. It shouldn't have any effect on operation. Brazing cast iron was more common in years past. I still do cast iron with brass repair.
    Casting flaws were sometimes repaired with brass when the machine was new to save recasting a part. Mostly on noncritical parts.


    45835134_10217722915686992_4842261200274194432_n.jpg

  4. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Cracking effort taking on a mill for a literally the first project. Overall looking pretty good so far and will learn more as you go.
    Thanks. I am kinda dreading the next steps this week of putting the table on and checking flat/square and everything else to see just how off my scraping was. Once I get that and verify if i do or dont need turcite, I will finally get to do the lube system and paint the saddle.

    Jon

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  6. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by mllud22 View Post
    It looks great. You seem to be more experienced than others on a first restoration. You do your homework.
    There appears to be a repair on the casting for the drive shaft in this picture. Right by the rear bearing/bushing boss. It may have tipped over and broke at some time in it's history.
    Thanks, I really do enjoy old machines, their history, and keeping them going. I am quite fortunate to work for a machine repair/rebuild company so while this is all quite new to me, it is not to the guys who have been helping me get this apart and rebuilt.

    This machine was a "working" machine up until a few years before I started this. However, I believe it just had a fixture on it and performed one drilling procedure. The most that I saw it working was that the head ran and I was able to barely turn the handles to get the table to move. Hopefully in the next week, I will make MUCH more progress.

    Jon

  7. #45
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    So I had to modify the Y axis gib to be able to actually adjust it. Also had to put 47 turcite on it so that I actually could adjust it. Anyways, here is the pictures of the Y axis gib with the set screws in it, the turcite, and then scraping in the turcite. Also posted some shots of how we had to use the knee and saddle to turcite the gib because of the angle.

    Next step? Turcite the X axis ways on the saddle to get the centerline back to where it needs to be for the table to properly work. Should get that done today or tomorrow. I am really hoping to have this done in the next week or two so I can put it in the garage before it gets too cold.

    Also, as far as the paint. I now know why the guys paint after they have ground and scraped the ways. I will probably have to put some coats on to get rid of the bluing. And I decided since I am doing this paint scheme like a P40 Warhawk from the AVG, I am gonna do the X and Y handle in a propeller paint scheme, black with the outer edges being yellow. Eventually the knee will have the shark teeth on them and some pinup will go on it somewhere. And the paint scheme is gonna be similar for my lathe at home, but that is gonna be blue of the Corsair.

    Jon

    20190930_072800.jpg20190930_072640.jpg20190930_072648.jpg20190930_080153.jpg20190930_075721.jpg

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  9. #46
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    Well, I am getting down to the final stages of the rebuild. I got the gibs turcited and scraped in, got the X axis ways on the saddle turcited to get the centerline back to where it needs to be and scraped in.
    20191007_124943.jpg

    Next was to get the power feed parts all put in and tested (as well as I could, as I don't know how they are supposed to operate or fit), which went ok. The hard part I have is the X axis engagement handle for the powerfeed. If I go all the way to the left, it seems to bind up the gear. So that will have to be a by feel thing, and not something I just toss over. It also looks like there is a gear assembly that acts as a limit switch and kicks the gear out when it is pushed down. The table and right side of the saddle(for the X) have a T slot in them, I am assuming to mount some sort of limit stops to.
    20191007_123815.jpg

    20191007_123817.jpg


    The mill was lubed via zerks fittings, but I went ahead and found an old used tiny little one shot lube pump and metered the system. All the ways are getting oil, the lead screws, and the power feed gears. The gears in the back of the knee that mesh with the powerfeed arm will have to be oiled seperately.

    20191007_150536.jpg

    20191007_150746.jpg

    From what I can tell, I have the table, leadscrew, dials, and handles to put on and that is pretty much it. And I need to come up with either drum switches or a on/off or fwd/rev/off thing. Not 100% sure how I want to go about that. The power feed can just be on off as it has directions on it already, but I will need a drumswitch for the M head.

    Jon

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  11. #47
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    Nearly there

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  13. #48
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    Well, its done. And not just put together, but its in the garage.

    I did have 2 parts left over, they ended up being a capture piece for the Y axis power feed gear and then a brass piece for the X axis engage/disengage that made it impossible to over travel and bind up on the gears. I got it together and everything tests great. I didnt have the gears in the power feed gear box perfectly done, so high doesnt run smoothly and the reversing handle needs to be further to engage in the opposite direction than the little stopper is. So, I decided that I will run it in low and control the direction via drumswitch instead of the gear.

    20191010_153412.jpg

    20191010_160248.jpg

    20191010_171522.jpg

    So there she is, where she will be for now. Hopefully if someone comes across another #2, this will have helped with parts or how to get something done.

    Thanks for all the info, advice, and enthusiasm as I went thru this endeavor.

    Jon

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    Your vertical alignment looked out around 90º







    Good job man, be interested to hear how that saddle gib works out over time.

    Cheers
    D

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  16. #50
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    Looks great! So nice to see an old machine get treated properly with no repair spared! That looks like a close fit getting it into the garage too.

    I like the Warhawk theme you're going for. I painted a shark mouth under the spindle nose of my old 1940's Logan 820 lathe when I rebuilt it. I've grown to like OEM machine colors or at least simple olive, grey, or black on old machines. Lets the machines's natural lines and features stand out.

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  18. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by M.B. Naegle View Post
    Looks great! So nice to see an old machine get treated properly with no repair spared! That looks like a close fit getting it into the garage too.

    I like the Warhawk theme you're going for. I painted a shark mouth under the spindle nose of my old 1940's Logan 820 lathe when I rebuilt it. I've grown to like OEM machine colors or at least simple olive, grey, or black on old machines. Lets the machines's natural lines and features stand out.
    It sure was close on getting it in.

    My Rockwell 46-525 is gonna be Marine Corps blue when I do it. I still gotta get some of the final touches on the mill for painting, but I kinda like the vintage air scheme.

    Thanks!

    Jon

  19. #52
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    Demon, I have no idea how the pics changed that way or how to fix them... hell, I cant even embed links. lol

    Thanks dude!
    Jon


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