Rotex Milling Machine

I am in the beginning stages of rebuilding/restoring a Rotex RM1 Milling machine. Would like to contact a Rotex owner who has been through this process already. I have a parts diagram of the machine but have already discovered some differences from my particular machine and the parts list.

Dennis

Hi Dennis,
I'm working on an RM1 as we speak. Not finished by any means but a fair bit of progress. I also have the parts list/exploded diagram probably the same one you have.

What have you found different in your machine? When I took mine apart I did not find any thrust bearings on the X or Y lead screw shafts. I will order those. Some of the oilers are missing. The parts list calls out item 29 (spacer, qty 4) that were not on my machine.

Go here to see some before and in process pictures of my project. The Fray vertical head came with the machine (mounts to the overarm). I'll be treating that as a separate project for the future. I'm looking forward to hearing from you and trading tips.

Bill

Bill
Thanks for the response. Mine is missing all three handwheels and I was concerned that some other parts were lost - i.e. thrust bearing and spacers - but think it unlikely two machines would be missing the same parts especially since yours appears to have the original handwheels. I removing the various pieces I'm not sure there is room for the thrust bearings - perhaps the bearing were added as a later design feature. What is you serial number? Mine is 10134

Dennis

Dennis
Too bad about the hand wheels. I think I've seen cast iron hand wheels at ENCO for not too much. The spacers were never on my machine as I think the bearing castings for the screws are different from the parts diagram. I don't know if the thrust washers were ever there either but there may be room for them. I'll give them a try.

My serial number is 10119 so older than yours by a little I guess. I e-mailed Rotex (yes they still exist but don't make mills anymore) but got no response. http://www.rotexpunch.com/index.html I should give them a call but haven't gotten around to it. The drive pully shaft and the bronze bearings in the pully bracket casting were shot. Shaft worn concave on the left end and that bearing 1/8 inch oval. I replaced those parts. Pressing those plain bearings out and the new ones back in was a bit of work. The acme nut on the knee leadscrew was worn to sharp V threads. I found a replacement at Roton Products. The knee screw seemed OK but was a little tight on the new nut. I need new nuts for the X-Y table. The X axis screw is fine but the Y axis is worn to a rounded profile in the center of it's travel. I haven't ordered those parts yet.

The spindle was in great shape with no appreciable runout radially or axially (<0.0005 if I recall). The Timkin bearings were fine. At least they kept those greased. The columns and knee ways seem fine. There is some wear on the X-Y ways but the action seemed smooth while running the machine before I tore it down. I have neither the skills nor the equipment to scrape them in anyway. I didn't try the X axis auto feed as that belt was missing. Turning by hand everything works though.

I bought it off Craigs List here in San Diego. The guy got it from his ex father in law and it was used in a boat prop grinding shop here in town. Came on a well built home made stand and had a bunch of cutters in various states of dullness. Next project... a way to sharpen plain milling cutters.

Bill

The handwheels should not be a problem - Reid Supply has a nice selection and replacing all threee while more expensive will allow me to have three matching handwheels - would appreciate knowing the dimensions of your - OD, hub depth and diameter so I can try for something close to original.

I'm still in the tearing down process and so haven't started to estimate wear in the screws and nut - mine was not running when i got it - no motor and very dirty with dried up grease and cutting fluids. The various machine bearing surfaces still show the flaking pattern from the original scraping so that is a good sign.

I have used Miller MAchine and Fab as a source for acme screws and nuts for my South Bend lathe. The table screww looks an awful lot like that of a larger SB lathe and in talking with Brian Miller I'm pretty sure he came make a new one with out much trouble and the cross slide nut as well.

BTW are the ends of your table screw threaded? While the parts diagram shows a jam nut on the ends my screw just has a machined flat for a set screw through the handwheel.

As soon as figure out how to post some pics I'll send of my project.

Dennis

Dennis,
I'll check the handwheel dimensions when I get home tonight. Have to write myself a note. Mine also had no motor upon arrival. I gerry rigged a motor from my atlas 6" lathe for some quick tests. Subsequently bought an (alleged 1/2 HP) 1725 RPM motor from Harbor Freight. Darn thing ran *very* hot but that was before I discovered the bad shaft/bearings on the mill. The machine was very dirty as well.

My Y axis screw is threaded on the handwheel end. I don't recall the TPI. The X axis has the flats on both ends. Also there are no keys as shown in the drawing on any of the shafts.

The X axis screw is very similar to my SB 9. Same keyway & worm gear arrangement for auto feed. Y axis screw is only 12" long. I can buy a length of 3/4-8 LH acme from Roton for $11.28/ft. Then turn down the straight part and thread as needed for the handwheel. He said with great confidence. BTW Roton has a $60 minimum order but with the nuts I need that won't be a problem. http://www.roton.com/Default.aspx I machined the keyway in the pully shaft on my Clausing 8520 mill and also drilled the divots for the pully set screws.

Bill

Bill

Spent most of the day with oven cleaner and hot water cleaning up various pieces. In addition to the guard over the knee screw miter gear the previous owner had placed a piece of galvanized sheet metal in the knee - great way to store chips - it was just packed.

Here is a pic of the mill as it arrived.




Dennis

Dennis,
Ok here are the handwheel dimensions.
O.D. 5"
Hub O.D. 1.573"
Hub thickness 1.031"
Hub bore 0.500"
Set Screw 5/16-18
3 spoke offset hub. The inside face of the hub has a 45° chamfer on it about 0.2" wide.

The Y-axis leadscrew jam nut thread is 1/2-20

I used a citrus based paint stripper to remove old paint. A mixture of TSP in water to clean off the hard oil, grease and chip mass along with hand wire brushes and lots of elbow grease.

Yes, it's amazing how much swarf can collect inside the knee. How that stuff
gets in there I'll never know. When I unbolted the column from the base I found chips *inside* the column. There aren't any openings into the column except the bottom which is bolted to the base. How do chips get in there

Yours looks much like mine did when I got it. It had sat for a few years. Is that the original Rotex base? Mine came on an open stand someone had welded up from channel. He did a nice job getting it square and even put adjustable feet on it for leveling. I added a couple shelves to hold the tooling. I replaced the plywood base with a top of two by material and covered that with some formica I had left over from an old work bench project. Easy to wipe clean. Once it's all apart the individual pieces are light enough for one man to handle. the column of course is the heaviest piece.

By the way, I had the devils own time getting the miter gear off the knee screw. Someone had spun it and the resulting burr had locked it on tight. It took many applications of Kroil, persuading with a pickle fork and finally heat from a propane torch to loosen it up and work it off.

Bill

Bill

Thanks for the handwheel dimensions - I can start shopping now.

The base is indeed a Rotex cabinet, however it almost looks like whoever was doing the welding that day put the top on upside down, the rim is facing down. Looks like they said the hell with it and fabricated a new rim with some strap steel which is held on with a series of screws - makes it easier for me to strip, clean and paint.

So far every thing has come apart without too much trouble.

BTW there is a Rotex Mill for sale this weekend in
Castro Valley in the San Francisco area not too far from the original Rotex facility. It is a Craigslist garage sale listing - listing says divorce/moving sale. Emailed the seller and he is looking for $400 for the mill $500 with the tooling.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/gms/376400562.html

Dennis

Dennis,
No problem. My RM1 came from Craigs list here. Listed for $450. Turned out he couldn't find the motor so he lowered the price to $350. I got a bunch of tooling as well. Two arbors, plain milling cutters from 2" to 6" OD and three helical slab milling cutters. The machine was in his ex- wife's garage and she wanted it gone (It had belonged to her father). He was a motivated seller.

I'm a new member here though I have visited this forum for many years. I'm glad to see some activity on Rotex mills. I've had mine for about 10 years. I cleaned it up and repainted it when I got it. It was in quite good shape when I bought it. It has a vertical head with it. I made a riser for the head so I could get a little more height over my vise when drilling. I live in northern Ca.

Charlie
Good to hear from another Rotex owner - If you wouldn't mind sharing some details would you list the serial number of you mill and the HP rating listed on the speed/feed plate? Mine is listed for a 1/2 hp motor but I know some came with a 3/4 hp. Pics would be welcome as well.

I'd like to find a vertical head for mine but fear the chances are quite slim

Dennis

Ok. Here are the vitals. 3/4 Hp 1ph, ser# 10423, Model# RM1
The head is 1/3hp 1ph, ser# 339, model # VA255
The second picture is of the riser, I made, for the head . Mine had the original paint on it when I got it which was a wrinkle greyish brown with white speckeling on it. The head still has the original paint on it. The funny thing is that I chose the blue color because I happen to have some paint that color. I have pictures of another restored one that is the same color.
The only thing that I haven't been able to hook up is the power feed. I don't think I have all of it. There seems to be no way to engage and disengage it. I have the horizontal arbor parts also. I have a pdf parts list for the mill I can share.

Charlie

Very original looking machine. Newer than mine judging by the serial number. Since my machine is apart and will be for awhile perhaps I can send you the parts for the power feed that you are missing and you could use them to fab new ones for yourself. Since I have a copy of the parts list you can use that for a reference and I can send the corresponding parts.

In return I'll be looking for some help - probably close up pics of some of the motor mounting pieces since mine came with out those.

Also keep me in mind if you come across a vert. head out there in California.

Let me know what you think

Dennis

Dennis,
I grew up in Detroit and moved to Ca in 1977. I think I had some correspondance with the guy in Castro Valley selling the Rotex mentioned earlier. I am more than happy to help you with the parts you need. I also have a lot of pictures of a restored Rotex that I can send you. Depending on what I am missing, I may be able to make the missing parts from sketches and a photo or two. Do you have any details of the parts I need? The picture of the worm gear I posted, is all I have of the power feed. I am only missing what it takes to engage the worm gear.

Charlie

I'm from Dearborn originaly and have been in Lansing since 1965.

It looks like the parts you are missing are numbers 41 - 45 in the parts list. Basically it is a lever that when lifted holds the square headed bolt in the up position which causes the worm gear to engage a gear on the table feed screw. I have a PDF file which describes the operation of the power feed. Send me a PM with you email address and I'll send it to you.

I'll try to take some pics of the parts this evening and then email them to you.

Dennis

41-45 looks like it to me also. PM sent.

I might also mention that mine has the thrust bearings and the feed screws are keyed and threaded as shown in the exploded parts view. I do not see anything on my machine that differs from the parts list.

Hi Charlie & Dennis,
Wow, lots of RM1 activity indeed! This is great. Charlie your machine looks terrific. I guess the parts list is for later machines than mine as none of my lead screw shafts are keyed. From the look of the scoring on the ends of the shafts on mine Rotex decided it was a good idea to key them. Must have been the same with the thrust bearings. Mine seems to be the oldest of the three by s/n.

I see from your pic how the motor mount and tension is supposed to work. Looks like it mounts to the side of the Rotex base cabinet. I don't have that so it's no surprise that my setup is a gerry rigged lashup. I'll have to make improvements there. For now I've just used the weight of the motor itself to tension the belt for test when I first got the machine before teardown. I'm missing the belt for the power feed but everything else is there. Do you know what size belt that is? It's smaller cross section than the main belts.

I'd love to see pics of another restored machine. You can see before and in process pics of mine at http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b222/bill8410vna/Rotex%20Mill/ I picked the Hammerite green 'cause I liked the color.

Dennis, would you also send me the pdf of the description of the power feed? My e-mail is in my profile and you should be able to e-mail me through the board. Let me know if you can't. Thanks.

Bill

Bill and Charlie

Charlie the parts on in the mail - hope they help.

Since I am considering making new screws for both the cross slide and the table This may be the time to see about changing to the thrust bearing configuration.

Charlie can we impose on you to take a pic of either end of the table hand wheel and parts off the machine? This would let me at least visually estimate if the existing pieces on my machine are essentially the same and can be bored out to accommodate the bearings and spacer indicated in the parts diagram. Some how I doubt that Rotex designed a completely different set of parts - more likely they modified what they were already using.

Have some parts soaking in oven cleaner - making progress slowly

Dennis