Shaper hold downs wanted

partsproduction · Mar 24, 2021

Last time I ran a WTB thread I was told to put it here, so here goes,
4" to 8" shaper hold downs. Please PM me if you have some for sale.
Thanks,
parts

John Garner · Mar 25, 2021

Is "shaper hold down" an application, or a specific type of holddown clamp? I can't recall ever seeing a holddown clamp in a textbook, catalogue, or shop that was labeled as such, but there are many old textbooks illustrating the use of several different types of general-purpose holddown clamps on planers, shapers, milling machines, and boring mills.

I suspect you'll have more success finding what you're looking for if you provide a more-specific description.

Limy Sami · Mar 25, 2021

Please choose the pattern you want from here

Strap Clamps Guide | Carr Lane

johnoder · Mar 25, 2021

John Garner said:
Is "shaper hold down" an application, or a specific type of holddown clamp? I can't recall ever seeing a holddown clamp in a textbook, catalogue, or shop that was labeled as such, but there are many old textbooks illustrating the use of several different types of general-purpose holddown clamps on planers, shapers, milling machines, and boring mills.

I suspect you'll have more success finding what you're looking for if you provide a more-specific description.

1901 book here shows (in the Planer Section) Planer Pins / Screw Plugs of various styles that fit either in bored holes in table or tee slots - each having a cross set screw put in at a slight angle off horizontal - to in effect HOLD DOWN thin work. These apparently pushed on TOE DOGS as the set up needed

Today - after you tire of looking for non existent stuff, one would make such things to suit his machine and the work to be done on it.

(PS - my 1951 36" Ohio shaper has far more holes than tee slots)

michiganbuck · Mar 25, 2021

The ones I used are like a parallel with perhaps a 3/8 side edge that would bump to the jaw of a vice
and 1/4" or 1/8" edge side that would bump the side of the held part so pushing it to the solid vise jaw.

So perhaps 8" x 3/4 rectangle with on side edge 3/8 and the other 1/8. but both the 3/8 and 1/8 off the same flat side...pretty sure we put the narrow side toward the bottom of the vise.

I haven't seen them for a very long time.

WoW, I don't even see any on Youtube. But do see a lot of shaper mistakes.

In Smith Hughes class we had to square block and then shaper it into a V block. I think we were allowed +- .010. That is close on a shaper. then we carburized it and ground it in on the SG.

Toolznthings · Mar 25, 2021

Are you referring to knife edge hold downs ? Link to Starrett 54A Hold-Down

metalmagpie · Mar 25, 2021

I have a pair of Starrett hold downs. They aren't very big, though, maybe 1x4". PM me if you have any interest.

metalmagpie

TedinNorfolk · Mar 26, 2021

I did consider them once-but the pressing down effect must be quite weak. So,on my shaper,I just bang the job down on the parallels. The pointing-down dog screws on a planer might be more justified.

JST · Mar 26, 2021

I made a set of stop pins, table strips, and some screw pins for my small shaper, which did not have a vise when I got it. Used them until I got a vise, and still do if needed.

Not too hard.

mc_n_g · Mar 26, 2021

You might also want to look at the Lufkin 902 series knife edge clamps. They are just like the Starrett knife edge clamps. They came in multiple length sets. I have sets of both Starrett and Lufkin and they work great!
You can find them on ebay fairly often

JohnMartin · Mar 30, 2021

michiganbuck said:
The ones I used are like a parallel with perhaps a 3/8 side edge that would bump to the jaw of a vice
and 1/4" or 1/8" edge side that would bump the side of the held part so pushing it to the solid vise jaw.

So perhaps 8" x 3/4 rectangle with on side edge 3/8 and the other 1/8. but both the 3/8 and 1/8 off the same flat side...pretty sure we put the narrow side toward the bottom of the vise.

I haven't seen them for a very long time.

WoW, I don't even see any on Youtube. But do see a lot of shaper mistakes.

In Smith Hughes class we had to square block and then shaper it into a V block. I think we were allowed +- .010. That is close on a shaper. then we carburized it and ground it in on the SG.

What Buck didn’t say is that the thick edge of the hold downs - the edge that goes against the vise jaws - is not ground at a 90 degree angle. It is somewhat acute, with the acute corner being placed upwards. The contact with the part is lower than that. What this means is that in addition to the horizontal force transmitted from the closing of the vise jaws, there is also a downward force on the workpiece. No need to use the lead hammer.

They do, of course, reduce the capacity of the vise.

partsproduction · Mar 30, 2021

I apologize for neglecting the WTB thread, I forgot all about it. In the meantime my every helpful brother found two sets in ebay, bought one of them for me and I bought the other set;
VINTAGE PAIR OF STARRETT NO.54C PRECISION HOLD DOWNS | eBay

Prior to that I'd been looking a lot and finding nothing, except a tool supply house somewhere that wanted $254 or something near that for a 6" set!!

Also I have seen "L" shaped brackets that sit in the T slots and have long pointed setscrews that hold down against the work itself, but thinking about this I came to the conclusion that these should be specially make so that the forces are contained over the full length of the T slots, a 1 1/4" long T base would be asking for a "Popped" T slot, which even imagining makes me feel a little sick.

JST · Mar 30, 2021

Actually, one generally uses more than one, thus spreading the force out. And the leverage is not that good, the stops usually don't have much mechanical advantage.

Illinoyance · Mar 31, 2021

Download a late 19th or early 20th century textbook on machine shop practice. Find the illustrations for shaper and planer furniture. Make your own furniture similar to that illustrated.

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Shaper hold downs wanted

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Toolznthings

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TedinNorfolk

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mc_n_g

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partsproduction

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