Sheldon Hex Turret

SilveradoHauler · Mar 5, 2021

Anyone know the secret to removing the 1" diameter tool holders from the turret of a Sheldon Hex Turret?

Some are movable about 1/8" out and rotate. Some are stuck, I credit this to 50 or so years of sitting on a shelf. I have loosened all the 1/2" clamp nuts, they will tap down a little over 1/16" with a rubber mallet.

Everything is soaking in Kroil now.

Other than not being able to remove the tool holders everything else works perfect.

Thanks guys!

thermite · Mar 5, 2021

SilveradoHauler said:
Anyone know the secret to removing the 1" diameter tool holders from the turret of a Sheldon Hex Turret?

Some are movable about 1/8" out and rotate. Some are stuck, I credit this to 50 or so years of sitting on a shelf. I have loosened all the 1/2" clamp nuts, they will tap down a little over 1/16" with a rubber mallet.

Everything is soaking in Kroil now.

Other than not being able to remove the tool holders everything else works perfect.

Thanks guys!

View attachment 315664

View attachment 315665

Reverse electrolysis, AKA "spooge tank" and "warmish" should work a treat.

It isn't as safe for high-alloy, heat-treated, or thin sections (springs, to name one.) as chelation, weird things can happen along micro/nano grain boundaries, etc. but...

... should be safe enough for a box of rocks basic "block" as turrets are, given it is KNOWN to take paint, "varnish" and rust even down into threaded holes right out of the room..

Covered. "Right here, on PM". Read allaboudid, position to make USE of"anode shadow" NOT.. and such.

rjs44032 · Mar 5, 2021

Most likely, those nuts are connected to drifts. Unscrew the nuts to near the top of the threads and gently tap them down. You should feel them disengage. This should release the internal clamps. Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Bob

Limy Sami · Mar 5, 2021

Another possibility is the shanks have shallow recesses machined in them so the cotter bolts don't mark the shanks, ......which means the cotter bolts have to be in exactly the right place to let the shanks pass.

I've seen such grooves / recesses turned to reclaim them when tools have spun and the shanks galled against the cotter bolts

SilveradoHauler · Mar 5, 2021

Ha! 2 hours of Kroil did its job.

And a lathe dog (copper shim to prevent marring the tool holders) helped.

Just a twist or two and they popped out.

This thing is pristine inside, no wear anywhere. Should be a nice addition to my tooling collection.

SilveradoHauler · Mar 5, 2021

rjs44032 said:
Most likely, those nuts are connected to drifts. Unscrew the nuts to near the top of the threads and gently tap them down. You should feel them disengage. This should release the internal clamps. Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Bob

Yep, did this already.

rjs44032 · Mar 5, 2021

SilveradoHauler said:
Ha! 2 hours of Kroil did its job.

And a lathe dog (copper shim to prevent marring the tool holders) helped.

Just a twist or two and they popped out.

This thing is pristine inside, no wear anywhere. Should be a nice addition to my tooling collection.

Good for you! That is a beautiful looking turret. I own an EXL, so I have to admit to a bit of envy. Is it for a 10" or 11"-12" bed?

Best Regards,
Bob

SilveradoHauler · Mar 5, 2021

Patience, Grasshopper, let the Kroil do it's job!

Note some of the tool holders are blanks. This turret had a very limited time of use. Scraping marks still visible.

SilveradoHauler · Mar 5, 2021

rjs44032 said:
Good for you! That is a beautiful looking turret. I own an EXL, so I have to admit to a bit of envy. Is it for a 10" or 11"-12" bed?

Best Regards,
Bob

It was listed as a 13 inch. Almost a perfect fit on my 13x40 Jet Gear Head. Maybe a touch of height and centerline machining. Next week's project.

Limy Sami · Mar 6, 2021

that's good, ...........and lucky, cos if the shanks have been burred up or relieved as my #4 they can be swine to get out :eek:

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