Sidney Model 32 16" - Tail Stock Morse Taper Question

N

Nemesis

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 7, 2015

Location

Southwest, MN

• Oct 7, 2020

• #1

I recently purchased a 1948 Sidney Model 32 16" lathe. As I am going over it quickly, I am repairing any little items that I come across. One item that I came across is that the morse taper in the tail stock is extremely chewed up. The exterior of the quill looks good, but the interior took some real abuse. I have read a ton of the posts on here seeing people for and against using a reamer to clean up the tail stock. Generally I believe the consensus is using a reamer to clean up some light burs is OK, but trying to do any aggressive work on the taper in the tail stock with a reamer is frowned upon. Thoughts on this one and options or do I just run it:

 

johnoder

Diamond

Joined

Jul 16, 2004

Location

Houston, TX USA

• Oct 7, 2020

• #2

Before attempting reaming I would want to know if it came from Sid Hardened and Ground. A file test would seem to be in order

 

N

Nemesis

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 7, 2015

Location

Southwest, MN

• Oct 7, 2020

• #3

John, good call. I have always been meaning to get a set of hardness files, just hadn't gotten around to it yet. I just ordered a set and will check it when they get in. Thank you!

 

L

Limy Sami

Diamond

Joined

Jan 7, 2007

Location

Norfolk, UK

• Oct 7, 2020

• #4

Something or nothing

Old school simple rule of thumb - if you can mark it with the corner of a ''reasonably fresh'' smooth file, you can machine it with HSS, .....the harder it is keep the speed lower.

 

J

James H Clark

Stainless

Joined

May 11, 2011

Location

southern in.

• Oct 8, 2020

• #5

I would want to re-machine it in the lathe with a taper attachment, if possible. This would keep it from wandering off-center. Then I might lightly try the reamer to finish it. I think by roughing it out with a reamer, it might tend to to go off center or crooked.
JH

 

C

ClappedOutBport

Cast Iron

Joined

Mar 30, 2016

• Oct 8, 2020

• #6

johnoder said:

Before attempting reaming I would want to know if it came from Sid Hardened and Ground. A file test would seem to be in order

Click to expand...

Hey John,

Not really. It's harder than normal steel. But not hard hard. I would guess it's equivalent to 4140 pre-hard, though I've never turned that. I will say that it left a beautiful surface finish when I took 1/16" of an inch off mine with carbide, as drills were bottoming out. Someone in the past has shortened mine by a good 3/4", I presume due to repeated reaming over the years. It also has a a gnarly slot and a tapped tang "grabber" so I'd say it's very machinable.

 

C

ClappedOutBport

Cast Iron

Joined

Mar 30, 2016

• Oct 8, 2020

• #7

If the reamer is held firmly in the headstock, it should run pretty straight. I would dial in the tailstock though, and make sure it's fully concentric and axial aligned. You may need to shim the centerline of course if it's worn some.

 

L

Limy Sami

Diamond

Joined

Jan 7, 2007

Location

Norfolk, UK

• Oct 8, 2020

• #8

If the taper has to be replaced, .....there is a way out if you haven't a taper turning lathe (and it gives you a really good MT socket)

Get a H&G turret lathe socket (parallel OD) and bore the TS quill to accept the OD of the turret socket, ...and shrink or Loctite in place (both work but Loctite's a lot easier)

 

Phil in Montana

Stainless

Joined

Jul 31, 2007

Location

Missoula Mt

• Oct 8, 2020

• #9

Reaming is not going to end well, taper will be out of center... set it up true and resize the taper in the lathe with a taper atch. but be careful not to remove any more than you have to, the tang pocket will end up in the wrong place and you will have to face the front of the quill ...Phil

 

C

ClappedOutBport

Cast Iron

Joined

Mar 30, 2016

• Oct 8, 2020

• #10

Phil in Montana said:

Reaming is not going to end well, taper will be out of center... set it up true and resize the taper in the lathe with a taper atch. but be careful not to remove any more than you have to, the tang pocket will end up in the wrong place and you will have to face the front of the quill ...Phil

Click to expand...

Unless they changed it significantly, there is no tang pocket. Just a big old bored out section. Hence why my taper is only about 3 inches long now. I'm planning to remake it someday and when I do include a tang pocket. Someone instead drilled and tapped mine for a set screw which prevents rotation and works pretty well.

I think the compound should have enough travel if the T/A is not an option.