Smart&Brown Model L capstan lathe
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 69
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,601
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1946
    Likes (Received)
    1002

    Default Smart&Brown Model L capstan lathe

    New to me recently. The plan is to go through it, do what needs doing and get it making parts

    According to tonys site, its an early model as it has an aluminium base.


    Am on the look out for any tooling in the UK btw.

    Cheers
    D

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,601
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1946
    Likes (Received)
    1002

    Default

    First job is have a look at the turret, looks simple enough.


    Slides still in great shape despite the grease love. Will just give the top surfaces a cross cut for oil retention.


    The tapers the turret mounts on are in great shape as is the locking thingy.


    Not sure how the screw stop pin got so bad but ill face that off and put a flat on it. Unless theres a better idea here.


    Same for the this washer that sits in front of the worm. Will make a new one.


    The bushings for the hand wheel were hanging so made em.


    And in their new home.


    The tapered pin that holds the worm dog and drive gear was broken. Wouldnt budge and i didnt want to smash on it to hard so I used the DHC to have that out.


    Reamed the shaft/dog and gear for the new pin, as it should be. The gear was being held in place a grub screw and the dog with what was left of the old pin.



    Should be back together today with any luck, tool slide next

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    18,815
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    14325
    Likes (Received)
    14366

    Default

    If my experience of S&B Model L's is anything to go by you will like your new toy.

    Nice one Mate

  4. Likes cutting oil Mac liked this post
  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Manchester, England
    Posts
    8,269
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1203
    Likes (Received)
    5238

    Default

    Regarding the brass bushes we always drilled and tapped them down the joint line and fitted a grub screw just to make sure they stayed put.

    Regards Tyrone.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,601
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1946
    Likes (Received)
    1002

    Default

    Cheers Sami . Had some fun n games getting it back together (note to self, mark gear timing! lol), and found out the turret lock likes a light oil, the fits are too close for anything like way oil. Works like a champ now though

    Tyrone, ive heard of that type of 'key' before but cant remember the name , sounds like a good idea for a critical or buried bushing. Plan to use that type of key to secure the nut im gonna make for my DSG tailstock quill. For the model L I made the bushings OD .001" or so oversize and pressed them in, I turned the ID to a nice slip fit but needed to ream them after id pressed them in, guess they crushed down a little. I think theyll be ok

    Cheers
    D

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Norfolk England
    Posts
    2,275
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2616
    Likes (Received)
    1679

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    New to me recently. The plan is to go through it, do what needs doing and get it making parts

    According to tonys site, its an early model as it has an aluminium base.


    Am on the look out for any tooling in the UK btw.

    Cheers
    D
    You need to mention shank dia. of tooling. At a guess 5/8",look for screw machine tooling. You could also speak to Frank at Autos GB. He is in Melbourne Derbyshire.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,601
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1946
    Likes (Received)
    1002

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    You need to mention shank dia. of tooling. At a guess 5/8",look for screw machine tooling. You could also speak to Frank at Autos GB. He is in Melbourne Derbyshire.
    Its 3/4" shank on this on one. Have you got a link or something for Frank? Found nothing for Autos GB.

    Cheers
    D

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,601
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1946
    Likes (Received)
    1002

    Default

    Ive just had the front cap off the spindle and it aint good. The cap just slides over whats left of the threads on the spindle, someones used grub screws to hold the cap on, it uses push collets so not hard to guess who won that battle! Im even wondering if the cap is a different thread.


    A file wont touch the spindle so if I want those threads back???
    Im gussing spindle out, hard turn threads deeper and live with grubscrew damage, make a new cap.
    or knock off the threads, weld it up, turn new threads, hope it doesnt move,,, too much ..

    Better ideas welcome.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Owl's Head, Maine
    Posts
    2,238
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    360
    Likes (Received)
    602

    Default

    Nicely illustrated post, Demon. Sounds like you're going to wind up a happy man.
    Re your tooling request, you might try a Wanted in Tony's listing.

    -Marty-

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Norfolk England
    Posts
    2,275
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2616
    Likes (Received)
    1679

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Its 3/4" shank on this on one. Have you got a link or something for Frank? Found nothing for Autos GB.

    Cheers
    D
    01332864850,good luck.

  12. Likes Demon73 liked this post
  13. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    18,815
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    14325
    Likes (Received)
    14366

    Default

    ''Better ideas welcome. ''

    Hard turn off threads to clean surface, m/c up OD threaded sleeve and Loctite in place.

  14. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,601
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1946
    Likes (Received)
    1002

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Feldman View Post
    Nicely illustrated post, Demon. Sounds like you're going to wind up a happy man.
    Re your tooling request, you might try a Wanted in Tony's listing.

    -Marty-
    Thanks Marty, be happy when its done lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    ''Better ideas welcome. ''

    Hard turn off threads to clean surface, m/c up OD threaded sleeve and Loctite in place.
    Is Loctite is it really that good? Not much room for a sleeve, something like .050" a side if I leave the nose OD as is (.100 or so difference from cap id to nose od). Have done a bit more investigating, the threads (24 tpi) are soft, the area in front isnt fileable. The cap is fileable.

    It could be so easy lol.

  15. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    18,815
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    14325
    Likes (Received)
    14366

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Thanks Marty, be happy when its done lol.



    Is Loctite is it really that good? Not much room for a sleeve, something like .050" a side if I leave the nose OD as is (.100 or so difference from cap id to nose od). Have done a bit more investigating, the threads (24 tpi) are soft, the area in front isnt fileable. The cap is fileable.

    It could be so easy lol.
    Run a few tests on Loctite and see what you think ??? …………..IME use the correct brew of Loctite, follow the instructions and it don't half take some shifting.

    As for the soft parts, they're a game changer and you're pretty much home and dry

  16. Likes Demon73 liked this post
  17. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,601
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1946
    Likes (Received)
    1002

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    Run a few tests on Loctite and see what you think ??? …………..IME use the correct brew of Loctite, follow the instructions and it don't half take some shifting.

    As for the soft parts, they're a game changer and you're pretty much home and dry
    I like the sound of that mate!

    If Im having to get into the headstock, I might pause and have a good think on how I want this thing to work. Having a set up for bar work is a must. Will get my head around how the collet closer works cos as things were, it had a bung in the end of the spindle which im not so sure needs to be there. I need some schooling on the ways of the capstan lathe

    Heres one that got away, a pile of gear went with it .

  18. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Sussex, England
    Posts
    3,374
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    12
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    I've done the weld-up and re-cut threads thing way back on a similar, albeit not lathe, spindle repair. Managed to keep things straight but result was "OK I suppose" at a charitable best with a heavy dollop of fix on Sunday ride on Monday. But it worked. If you are planning on building up perhaps metal spaying would be worth investigating.

    Loctite is that good. If you can trim the plain part down too it will pretty much double the adhesive area. Its not gonna pull off. Far, far stronger than the threads. On this sort of job there is a minimum thickness for the "tube" section under the threads to avoid weird stress issues with the thread. I imagine something over half the thread depth underneath will be fine. Loctite may have an application note about minimum sleeve thicknesses.

    Clive

  19. Likes Limy Sami, Demon73 liked this post
  20. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Norfolk England
    Posts
    2,275
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2616
    Likes (Received)
    1679

    Default

    I need some schooling on the ways of the capstan lathe ;

    Does that mean you have no experience of capstans?

  21. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,601
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1946
    Likes (Received)
    1002

    Default

    Cheers Guys, thats 2 votes for Loctite so ill order some up and give it go. I messaged Loctite UK and they suggested 638 and clean with 7063. Good point about extending the sleeve, it adds surface to the joint. Will likely keep the 24tpi over the standard 8tpi in case I want to grip a collet with the cap rather than the closer. Could make the thread od a bit larger too if needed, I dont mind making a new cap etc.

    Ive some play in the rear bearing (.004" axial and .005" endlfoat) so have to look into that, the rear bearing is opposed ball races the front bear is an adjustable bronze bearing. With luck ill find some shims that let me adjust things.

  22. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,601
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1946
    Likes (Received)
    1002

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    I need some schooling on the ways of the capstan lathe ;

    Does that mean you have no experience of capstans?
    No experience with capstan lathes im afraid, ive a WS turret lathe operator book, whole new world of stuff in there.

  23. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Norfolk England
    Posts
    2,275
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2616
    Likes (Received)
    1679

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    No experience with capstan lathes im afraid, ive a WS turret lathe operator book, whole new world of stuff in there.
    Have a word with Frank,he will have all kinds of toolholders. You will need floating drill holders,rollerbox and V steady turning tool holders,a tap holder,a button die holder,and if your luck is in a Coventry diebox. Tell him they are all OG turret size,he will understand.

  24. Likes Demon73, Limy Sami liked this post
  25. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    18,815
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    14325
    Likes (Received)
    14366

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    Have a word with Frank,he will have all kinds of toolholders. You will need floating drill holders,rollerbox and V steady turning tool holders,a tap holder,a button die holder,and if your luck is in a Coventry diebox. Tell him they are all OG turret size,he will understand.
    Camscan, I've already spoken with Demon and am going to sort through my collection of capstan tooling for 3/4 shank stuff, and / or those that can easily be modified.
    During out chat he told me he'd some dieheads.

  26. Likes Demon73 liked this post

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •