Smart&Brown Model L capstan lathe - Page 3
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 41 to 60 of 69
  1. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    Did someone say Britan?
    img_20191017_134640.jpg img_20191017_135704.jpg

    The S&B is getting closer to done, am putting the spindle back together today all being well. It wont be perfect but id like to see it run before I go further.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Norfolk England
    Posts
    2,175
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2536
    Likes (Received)
    1613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Did someone say Britan?
    img_20191017_134640.jpg img_20191017_135704.jpg

    The S&B is getting closer to done, am putting the spindle back together today all being well. It wont be perfect but id like to see it run before I go further.
    Blimey fella, you are an easy touch. You couldn't lend me a monkey could you?

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    Blimey fella, you are an easy touch. You couldn't lend me a monkey could you?
    Are you trying to tell me that £2500 was too much for this machine!?
    Last edited by Demon73; 10-18-2019 at 03:05 PM.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    The spindles back together, used .006" o shims in the end as .007" seemed a little tight.
    I dunno not what the standard mo for making shims is but I machined this slug like so and parted of a ring, I sandwiched the shim stack between the two and turned the od.


    Bored the id in the mill.


    Job done, easier than I expected tbh.


    The slot at the top suggested to me that the bearings should run in oil, not grease as they had been. A phonecall to da man just to make sure


    Shims in place ready for the other bearing to go in.


    Net result was loads better . Ive some runout due to front journal wear on the spindle, but im not too concerned atm, see how it runs in the real world.

  5. Likes Limy Sami, camscan, Sachmanram liked this post
  6. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    18,697
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    14228
    Likes (Received)
    14249

    Default

    Bump & how's it going Demon?

  7. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    Bump & how's it going Demon?
    Lol! Its been a busy day mate, almost like you already knew

  8. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    A few days ago I had the slide apart to check and clean. Everything was in good order, the bushings were just about bad enough to want doing while it was apart, I gave everything a good clean (was full o chips and grease) and treated the top slide a quick cross cut for oil. The handle can go on either side of the slide, was originally near the chuck which is how I put it back, till I saw a pic on tonys page with it on the turret side. Then when I was done swapping it over I scrolled further down the page and see another pic of it near the chuck . So I might move it for a third time after I get fed up with it getting the way of turret tools



    The slides all back together now working great. Have had it running briefly and all was well apart from the belt kicking itself off when you reverse the spindle, could do with a new belt and I have to check the motor mounts as its free to slide which im not sure I like. Got the collet closer refitted too, was simple enough in the end, works fine and it didnt pop the threaded sleeve off the spindle

  9. Likes Limy Sami liked this post
  10. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    18,697
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    14228
    Likes (Received)
    14249

    Default

    Lookin good Houston

  11. Likes Tyrone Shoelaces liked this post
  12. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    Been busy today sorting things so the little machine will run 3/4" bar through the push tube and collet assembly. Made the leap after the phonecall and just got on with it.
    I started with the collet cup/socket, it has a flat coiled spring fitted inside that pushes the tube back and keeps the closer finger engaged. I bored around .040" out of that leaving the spring and going slow.
    I made a new new tube as the old one doesnt have enough meat to take it out. I made the new one a closer fit to spindle bore so the wall thickness stays sensible.
    Had to make a collet as I dont have one and im not sure they made them this big in this size collet. If youre thinking the old collet looks bigger youre right. Its sprung and some .050" bigger, the one ive made is sized to the socket. Nearly done apart from the details.



    Cheers
    D

  13. Likes Limy Sami, Sachmanram liked this post
  14. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    Lookin good Houston
    Cheers man

  15. #51
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    Nearly there

    Finished off the collet and push bar and it works great, well, great enough for what I need it to do


    Shortened the belt as it was at the end of the adjustment, it had 2 sets of aligator joints on it, one was naffed so I took it out and glued it with 'super glue' (read it on the interweb), didnt think for a minute itd work on an ancient oil soaked belt. Still holding with the belt tight. Found the reason the belt was jumping off was cos the motor was floating, it has small set screws that locate the main mounting bar on the outside back of the machine, wouldnt know they were there unless you go looking for them. Reverses all speeds now and doesnt seem to be slipping anything I can notice.


    Clocked the turret and its low a couple thou, im putting that in the win column. Its been bored to 20mm, should be 3/4
    afaik.


    Other than that ive made a front tool block, stop rods and nuts for the capstan, and put the handle back near the chuck, much better access with it there I think. Still to sort out a barfeed and some sort of oil sump an pump. And anything else I dont know about yet


    Cheers
    D

  16. Likes sfriedberg, rustytool liked this post
  17. #52
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Baltimore, MD, USA
    Posts
    4,007
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    287
    Likes (Received)
    582

    Default

    Like your tool blocks. The units on my Wade are nice but sort-of fussy to fit and adjust. You going to put anything indexable on the feed slide? I've found having flexibility there occasionally useful.

    A shade-tree bar feed I've always wanted to try is a compressed air setup;

    - set up a length of PVC tube diameter comfortably larger than the largest bar size, fixed to the base but not attached to the spindle
    - set pu the outboard end for a threaded plug which has a compressed air fitting in it.
    - make a piston to fit the tube with close slip fit, work-facing end is slightly concave.
    - put in bar, then the piston, then the plug. connect to shop air.

    Thus the piston is free to spin while the spindle is running, and when the collet is released the compressed air will feed the bar in. They say it tends to use a lot of air but is nice and simple and reliable.

    I've not had any runs long enough to need it- and no space to set it up anyway- headstock is about 1' from the shop wall. Waiting for the day when I need to saw a hole in the wall to fit a bar lol

  18. Likes Demon73 liked this post
  19. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Menke View Post
    Like your tool blocks. The units on my Wade are nice but sort-of fussy to fit and adjust. You going to put anything indexable on the feed slide? I've found having flexibility there occasionally useful.

    A shade-tree bar feed I've always wanted to try is a compressed air setup;

    - set up a length of PVC tube diameter comfortably larger than the largest bar size, fixed to the base but not attached to the spindle
    - set pu the outboard end for a threaded plug which has a compressed air fitting in it.
    - make a piston to fit the tube with close slip fit, work-facing end is slightly concave.
    - put in bar, then the piston, then the plug. connect to shop air.

    Thus the piston is free to spin while the spindle is running, and when the collet is released the compressed air will feed the bar in. They say it tends to use a lot of air but is nice and simple and reliable.

    I've not had any runs long enough to need it- and no space to set it up anyway- headstock is about 1' from the shop wall. Waiting for the day when I need to saw a hole in the wall to fit a bar lol
    Thanks Greg. Will probably keep things as they are re the tool slide atm and leave any mods for when/if I actually need them. But if youve any pics/links for ideas etc please put them up.

    I did get a pneumatic barfeed come with the Britan that sounds very close to what you described. The guy said be sure to turn it off before you slide it out to change the bar or itll shoot the 'mouse' (im guessing thats the piston) across the shop . Ive no experience here so more learning, like usual

  20. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Norfolk England
    Posts
    2,175
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2536
    Likes (Received)
    1613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Thanks Greg. Will probably keep things as they are re the tool slide atm and leave any mods for when/if I actually need them. But if youve any pics/links for ideas etc please put them up.

    I did get a pneumatic barfeed come with the Britan that sounds very close to what you described. The guy said be sure to turn it off before you slide it out to change the bar or itll shoot the 'mouse' (im guessing thats the piston) across the shop . Ive no experience here so more learning, like usual
    Air feed is great if you don't shoot yourself with the pusher. No feed finger marks is a big plus but they sure do know how to use air. If you don't have a fair surplus of air then don't do it.

  21. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    18,697
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    14228
    Likes (Received)
    14249

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    Air feed is great if you don't shoot yourself with the pusher. No feed finger marks is a big plus but they sure do know how to use air. If you don't have a fair surplus of air then don't do it.
    Maybe on a cam auto with air running all the time, but IME on a capstan with a simple trigger or 1/4 turn type valve they only need ''a good puff'' ……….though it must be said, a small air tank, (say 2L / 1/2 gallon) just before the bar feed trigger valve ensures a smoother operation .........and can use a lot lower pressure than you think.

  22. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    Ive got plenty of air, but unless the thing is leaking badly it shouldnt take much no? I was thinking of using a low pressure all the time, just turn off and vent when you put another bar in.
    Have to admit theres a lot im thinking about. Can you load another bar onto of whats left in the spindle? Or is the norm to have a push rod of sorts?
    Was also looking at gravity feeders, this one looks pretty cool as you can open it to load the bar.

    Im thinking I should stop thinking and just get on with it and see what comes out the other end lol.

  23. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Norfolk England
    Posts
    2,175
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2536
    Likes (Received)
    1613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Ive got plenty of air, but unless the thing is leaking badly it shouldnt take much no? I was thinking of using a low pressure all the time, just turn off and vent when you put another bar in.
    Have to admit theres a lot im thinking about. Can you load another bar onto of whats left in the spindle? Or is the norm to have a push rod of sorts?
    Was also looking at gravity feeders, this one looks pretty cool as you can open it to load the bar.

    Im thinking I should stop thinking and just get on with it and see what comes out the other end lol.
    You need a push rod because you don't want the bar end to be too long to not eject but too short for the collet to grip properly.

  24. Likes Demon73, Limy Sami liked this post
  25. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1893
    Likes (Received)
    977

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    You need a push rod because you don't want the bar end to be too long to not eject but too short for the collet to grip properly.
    I had a quick look at the Britan unit and that has a piston and push bar, I understand what you mean about the end getting ejected, I didnt think o that .
    img_20191101_155247.jpg img_20191101_155258.jpg img_20191101_155317.jpg
    I guess you could mark the end bar so you know what you have in the collet. Functionally 'bar on bar' seemed to work ok yesterday when I tried it, whilst they met in the spindle at least.

    Cheers
    D

  26. #59
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    18,697
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    14228
    Likes (Received)
    14249

    Default

    Looking good demon, ……...one thing, ……...you may be lucky, but I have never found a decent substitute for leather cup washers in that application.

    FYI In this fay and age they can be a 4X to get hold of, ……….this is one place I've heard good reports of http://www.worldofwashers.com/leather-cup-seals

  27. Likes Demon73 liked this post
  28. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Norfolk England
    Posts
    2,175
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2536
    Likes (Received)
    1613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    Looking good demon, ……...one thing, ……...you may be lucky, but I have never found a decent substitute for leather cup washers in that application.

    FYI In this fay and age they can be a 4X to get hold of, ……….this is one place I've heard good reports of http://www.worldofwashers.com/leather-cup-seals
    I have used leather belting to make a good seal,cut it to size as good as and then grease it.
    On the subject of using new stock to push the last of old stock what is going to stop the two bars going alongside each other?
    It may be a good idea to ask around for an old sliding head weight feed, but you would still need a pusher.

  29. Likes Limy Sami liked this post

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •