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Smart and brown sabel, change gears

J

Johan 2018

Plastic
Joined
May 20, 2018
A bit of frustration with the info at hand and crappy guidance picture etc. on the gearcover... Is this how Im supposed to have them setup for 1,5mm metric pitch? My setup is as follows: the 36z Stud gear is engaging the 127z idler gear wich is engaging the 56z screw gear. Im confused because in the pic theyre kind of shown interacting in another way...and the outer 100z idler and the outer 20z screwgear are basically just there as spacers doing no other purpose..?

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I know I can test this once im done putting it back together but any help in advance is apreciated,
thanks. status at the moment... see last pic

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Yes, you have to use the 20T as a spacer behind the 56T screw gear, so that can engage with the 100T to get the correct ratio


PS you can use any gear as a spacer, - as long as it doesn't foul the 127 FWIW I made a couple of simple spacers so I didn't have to use gears …..cutting a slot to clear the keys with a hacksaw and file, as long as the spacer faces are parallel you're good to go.
 
thanks for your answers guys , I swapped the screwgears front to back and adjusted their location on arm to suit but the two idlergears slip in relation to each other wich was part of the initial confusion early on, see video clip

 
Johan 2018 said:
thanks for your answers guys , I swapped the screwgears front to back and adjusted their location on arm to suit but the two idlergears slip in relation to each other wich was part of the initial confusion early on, see video clip

Click to expand...

That's because they aren't pinned together, I could be wrong, but the hub of the 100T looks like it has a (say) 1/8th hole thru' there should be a corresponding hole in the 127, - just insert a mild steel (ish) pin to lock the gears together, …….there may be more than one pin


If no such holes exist - using an accurate / snug fitting plug in the bores, just drill (& ream if you like) holes for the pins, and jobs a goodun.


P.S. thinking about it , & IIRC my 127 /100 were ''permenantly'' pinned - maybe even lightly rivetted together and I separated them as I wanted a 100T gear for an indexing job.
 
Right on the money Limy Sami, sure enough there was a little pin hiding in the gear under the dirt… now working like its supposed to :)


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Nice one Johan, I'm sure you know, but just in case you don't, the Smart & Brown Sable was a copy of the 9'' SouthBend, with many saying not only by far and away the best copy, but far better than the original, ……..I only ever played with one for a few minutes, but I sure liked it, ……..along with just about everything else Smart & Brown made.


So as far as screw cutting etc goes, what's good for a S/B is almost certainly ???? good for a S&B :)


FWIW I have and daily drive a Boxford ME 10, - another SB clone, which has more than helped keep a roof over, put food on the table and a fire in the grate for well over 20 years.
 
Limy Sami said:
Nice one Johan, I'm sure you know, but just in case you don't, the Smart & Brown Sable was a copy of the 9'' SouthBend, with many saying not only by far and away the best copy, but far better than the original, ……..I only ever played with one for a few minutes, but I sure liked it, ……..along with just about everything else Smart & Brown made.


So as far as screw cutting etc goes, what's good for a S/B is almost certainly ???? good for a S&B :)


FWIW I have and daily drive a Boxford ME 10, - another SB clone, which has more than helped keep a roof over, put food on the table and a fire in the grate for well over 20 years.
Click to expand...


Seems a very small pin to connect the gears (think Drummond 5", 3 1/2" and ilk with their twin 3/16" pins, but a S&B was intended for operators who had the touch.

I also have an appreciation of Boxford lathes but don't recall how they achieved the same result?
 
Greenwud said:
Seems a very small pin to connect the gears (think Drummond 5", 3 1/2" and ilk with their twin 3/16" pins, but a S&B was intended for operators who had the touch.

I also have an appreciation of Boxford lathes but don't recall how they achieved the same result?
Click to expand...

Mine - 40 + Y/O ish new stock (in concrete like grease and brown paper) 127/100 had 1/8 roll pins, …...which I did not mention as they are the spawn of the devil :eek:


If you think about it, the torque load on gear trains of lathes up to about 12'' is very low, IMO proven by the methods used to hold such a train in place, …….so a 1/8 or 3/6 pin is more than adequate.
 
In other lathes the two gears are coupled by a keyed bushing, probably providing similar resistance. In a certain way,
Considering that, in most of the cases, you're rotating the leadscrew slower than the spindle, that pin is even not the weakest link in the system.

Paolo
 
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