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Vintage Continental band saw and filer

kielbasavw

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Location
california
I picked up these 2 continental band saw and filer. Cheap from a buddy. They arent complete but enough parts to make one working machine. I'm going to build up the band saw.

The only thing I came up with is they are pre DoAll. Does anybody know anything else about these machines? How to tell year, or any other goody facts about them. I found a # cast into inside of the door says 7/3|||8. Could that mean 7/3/1938? And what could I do with the filer once I finish the saw? Think there would be buyers for a rad looking machine missing parts?

I already started going through them and found I need some bearings. I was planning on just going with sealed bearings unless that would be a big no no on something like this, but I don't see the problem.
Another issue is the motor. It's a craftsman .5hp 110v 1750rpm. IT was a little hard to read on the switch, but looks like it was originally a 250v 1hp motor. How lame is the 110 motor gonna be?
So far the only broken part I found was the lower blade guide. It's almost cracked in half. I maybe able to braze it, or maybe aftermarket options could adapt?
I have not tested the blade welder, it's got a goofy Australian 220 plug, but it does come with a bunch of different blades that are cut and need to be welded.
 

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I found a # cast into inside of the door says 7/3|||8. Could that mean 7/3/1938?

It's possible as I'm not an expert on these machines, but my experience with casting numbers is that they rarely change the dates in the molds to keep up with years, let alone days.

I was planning on just going with sealed bearings unless that would be a big no no on something like this, but I don't see the problem.

I think sealed bearings would be your best option for long life in this application, with swarf raining down across it.

Another issue is the motor. It's a craftsman .5hp 110v 1750rpm. IT was a little hard to read on the switch, but looks like it was originally a 250v 1hp motor. How lame is the 110 motor gonna be?

If the motor is installed ok and functional, and if you're not concerned with an original restoration, I'd try it first and see what you think. If too weak you can always change it. Make sure the blade is decent first. But 1/2hp does seem on the small side for this size machine unless heavily geared down.

Good luck!
 
Well the way the bearings are setup original they are sealed on one side and open on the other. You set up both shaft bearings so open sides face each other and zerk fitting fills the cavity between them. But seems like sealed bearings are cheaper.. from my searches.
The motor isn't attached it was somewhat bolts in the filer which had a wooden spacer. Also the floor of the filer is different than the saw. The filer has a spring loaded tilting motor base. Saw us solid rubber mounted.
I'd have to start from scratch weather I use the craftsman motor or source another one
 
Those are cool looking machines; How big is the throat on the saw? I do think your way off on the date. I have an 18" DoAll band saw made 1941 or 1942 and the only castings are the table and tilt and the gear case and wheels, etc.. Maybe closer to 1908 or 1918 on the year of those. DoAll ought to have a page somewhere on the web with their history, some of the machines they offered made them well known.
Dan
 
You know what I never measured the throat. I'll need to do that next time I get a chance. I contacted doall about these and sent pictures. They said they didn't know and asked if there was any other tag or plaque on the machines. There isnt.
 
kielbasavw,

Interesting old saws. I guess you know DoAll was part of Continental Machines. I have a 1943 edition of the book DOALL Contour Saws and the title page says Continental Machines Inc., makers of DOALL Contour machines.

Another DOALL booklet says the first DOALL band saw was produced in 1933. They indicate that narrow width steel blades were only developed around this time, with 1/8" and narrower width blades developed around 1935-36.

The book says the DOALL automatic resistance type butt welder was developed in 1936, before that they used a resistance type brazing unit.

So I don't know where your machines fit into this time line. As you suggest, maybe pre-DoALL.

FYI, I have a 1946 V-16 DoALL and the original motor is 1/2hp.The motor is mounted to a hinged plate (with spring loading), the plate moves a bit as the vary speed is used.

Regarding sealed bearings - the easiest thing is to buy bearings sealed both sides and then remove a seal if you want to. All you need is a sharp point (e.g. scriber) to lift a seal or shield off. I would be tempted to use bearings sealed both sides.
 
I have a tired old 1/2 horse motor on my 16" DoAll.

It's fine for running in "low" gear, and in the bottom half of the variable range.

But struggles with higher speeds.

A good 3/4 or 1 horse motor would be much better.


.
 
So I got the bearings and put all the shafts together and installed. When I spin the lower wheel, the gears make a crazy loud noise. I have a video but don't know how to load it here.
Sounds like a chain fall. I have no idea if it's ment to be this loud back then, but damn.
I do have another shaft with the built in gear, but sorta a lot of work then swap it out it's the first shaft that goes in, last one that comes out.. lol
I pictured the broken bottom blade guide too
 

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I swapped out a gear/shaft for a spare I had. It feels smoother maybe a few percent quieter but still obnoxiously loud.

Also measured, it's a 11" throat depth
 








 
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