Joe Michaels
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2004
- Location
- Shandaken, NY, USA
My wife and I have just returned from a short road trip. I drove down to the Outer Banks of North Carolina, a place neither my wife nor I had ever visited before. We went down before the "season" started, so it was uncrowded and peaceful.
I had read about the HMT Bedfordshire, an armed trawler which came from Britain for anti submarine patrols off the Outer Banks. Having read about the "Bedfordshire" previously, I wanted to pay my respects at the British Cemetery. For those who are not familiar with the "Bedfordshire", there is quite a story. England was in WWII a few years ahead of the USA. The USA was neutral, but was supplying England with foodstuffs, supplies and war materiel via a lifeline of merchant ships. The British code breakers at Bletchley Park had succeeded in cracking the German naval codes and were fully aware of any orders given by Admiral Doenitz to the U boat fleet, full details of operating areas, dates and number of U boats assigned to those areas. The British had also developed strategies for protecting merchant shipping and for anti submarine warfare. Unfortunately, US Admiral Ernest King was an Anglophobe, and would not give any consideration to any information the British sent to the US Navy. As a result, unprotected merchant ships were being sunk at an alarming rate within sight of the US East Coast. The area off the Outer Banks had over 100 merchant ships sunk by U Boats. This was the lifeline supplying Britain and it was coming perilously close to being cut by the U Boats. The British sent a number of armed trawlers to the East Coast of the US, equipped for anti-submarine warfare with Asdic (a version of "sonar"), deck guns and depth charges. The trawlers were not big ships, maybe 135-150 ft long. They were steam powered with triple expansion engines and had hand fired boilers burning coal.
The Bedfordshire went out on an anti-submarine patrol off Ocracoke Island. A U boat torpedoed her and she went down with all hands. The next day, bodies began washing ashore. Four bodies were found and buried there, including the skipper. Two of the bodies were unidentified. Originally, the bodies were buried under cast concrete crosses, but granite headstones with the "fouled anchor" insignia of the Royal Navy were set as permanent markers after WWII. The people of Ocracoke, mainly fishermen, buried the bodies and put up grave markers. They deeded the plot of land where the British seamen were buried to England. To this day, the "white Ensign" (the flag of the Royal Navy) flies over that little cemetery.
The skipper of the Bedfordshire was only 27 when he took his ship and crew across the Atlantic. His ship was known as an Arctic Trawler, so could stand the heavy seas, but how it hauled enough coal, fresh water for boiler makeup, and provisions for the crew to make the crossing is another matter. Something like 24 British sailors lost their lives when the "Bedfordshire" was torpedoed, defending our coastline and merchant shipping.
I told my wife the story of the Bedfordshire before we got to the Outer Banks, and said I wanted to pay my respects to the crew and the ship. Wife understood fully. We got to the little cemetery and spent a few minutes there. No one else was around, but it was a place to reflect and give thanks to a brave crew of young men who died far from home. The "White Ensign" flew over the cemetery, but it is really tattered. Maybe that is appropriate for a place memorializing a crew and ship lost as they were. I wonder how many people stop to pay their respects at the little British Cemetery these days, and realize the sacrifice those young men made for us. I suspect that in season, most people are too busy buying tee shirts and kitschy stuff and finding various amusements.
We had wanted to visit the "Graveyard of the Atlantic" Museum, but it was closed on Sundays and we headed home on a Monday morning, early. We just did not fit that into our days, unfortunately. We did take the Ferry to Ocracoke Island from Hatteras. A free ferry ride, and nearly an hour in length. The actual "as the crow flies" distance between the ferry slips at Hatteras and Ocracoke is a very short distance. However, due to storms and resulting changes to the sea bottom, the ferry has to take a much longer route. The ferries are shallow draft vessels, equipped with Voith Cycloidal type propellors, and powered with 'Cat diesels. As a result, there is a fair amount of vibration and noise on the car deck. We did get out of the pickup and talked to a crew member and he told us a lot about the area. As we stood on the for'd end of the ferry going to Ocracoke, a couple of porpoises broke water and swam off the port side of the ferry for a bit. That made our day. The return crossing back to Hatteras showed us a beautiful sunset, and then after dark, the skipper turned on the searchlight on top of the wheelhouse. The searchlight picked up some large fish breaking water, which was also quite a thing to see.
We spent a few days just being lazy, eating plenty of great seafood, walking on the dunes or laying on the sand. I had driven down with our Tacoma 4 x 4 pickup and included a shovel, tow strap and chains, axe, bow saw and similar gear. I had seen 4 x 4 trails and areas designated on maps. When we got to Hatteras, we discovered a permit to go on the beaches with a 4 x 4 is fifty bucks. For a few days, it did not pay. Similarly, another permit has to be obtained for a fire on the beach, so we did not build any fires or cook out on the beach. The beaches were deserted, and we spread out a tarp and just let the sun and sea air do their work.
On the way home, we stopped at Kitty Hawk. This is the site worth visiting. I had read a few books about the Wright Brothers, so this was quite a thing to see.
Seeing the full-sized replica of the Wright Brothers' glider and their first plane was really amazing. There is a section of the crankcase of one of their engines of the type used in their first plane. Charlie Taylor, their machinist, had apparently used aluminum castings to build those engines, which, to me seemed fairly advanced for the day. There was a display of some of the tools the Wright Brothers used, or at least tools typical of what they might have used. Wife and I chuckled at the set of drawing instruments- I still use the same type of instruments. There were some lathe tool holders, but I had to bite my tongue. These were too modern for the era. They were Armstrong or Williams lathe tool holders with 1/4" square HSS toolbits, and a lathe cutoff tool holder that also looked a bit too modern for the 1900-1903 era. There was a wooden tee square of the type we used at Brooklyn Technical HS, which also caused us to chuckle. I still have a tee square like it in the house. The exhibits and overall historic site are very well done, and we spent about 1 1/2 hours there.
It was a good vacation trip for sure.
I had read about the HMT Bedfordshire, an armed trawler which came from Britain for anti submarine patrols off the Outer Banks. Having read about the "Bedfordshire" previously, I wanted to pay my respects at the British Cemetery. For those who are not familiar with the "Bedfordshire", there is quite a story. England was in WWII a few years ahead of the USA. The USA was neutral, but was supplying England with foodstuffs, supplies and war materiel via a lifeline of merchant ships. The British code breakers at Bletchley Park had succeeded in cracking the German naval codes and were fully aware of any orders given by Admiral Doenitz to the U boat fleet, full details of operating areas, dates and number of U boats assigned to those areas. The British had also developed strategies for protecting merchant shipping and for anti submarine warfare. Unfortunately, US Admiral Ernest King was an Anglophobe, and would not give any consideration to any information the British sent to the US Navy. As a result, unprotected merchant ships were being sunk at an alarming rate within sight of the US East Coast. The area off the Outer Banks had over 100 merchant ships sunk by U Boats. This was the lifeline supplying Britain and it was coming perilously close to being cut by the U Boats. The British sent a number of armed trawlers to the East Coast of the US, equipped for anti-submarine warfare with Asdic (a version of "sonar"), deck guns and depth charges. The trawlers were not big ships, maybe 135-150 ft long. They were steam powered with triple expansion engines and had hand fired boilers burning coal.
The Bedfordshire went out on an anti-submarine patrol off Ocracoke Island. A U boat torpedoed her and she went down with all hands. The next day, bodies began washing ashore. Four bodies were found and buried there, including the skipper. Two of the bodies were unidentified. Originally, the bodies were buried under cast concrete crosses, but granite headstones with the "fouled anchor" insignia of the Royal Navy were set as permanent markers after WWII. The people of Ocracoke, mainly fishermen, buried the bodies and put up grave markers. They deeded the plot of land where the British seamen were buried to England. To this day, the "white Ensign" (the flag of the Royal Navy) flies over that little cemetery.
The skipper of the Bedfordshire was only 27 when he took his ship and crew across the Atlantic. His ship was known as an Arctic Trawler, so could stand the heavy seas, but how it hauled enough coal, fresh water for boiler makeup, and provisions for the crew to make the crossing is another matter. Something like 24 British sailors lost their lives when the "Bedfordshire" was torpedoed, defending our coastline and merchant shipping.
I told my wife the story of the Bedfordshire before we got to the Outer Banks, and said I wanted to pay my respects to the crew and the ship. Wife understood fully. We got to the little cemetery and spent a few minutes there. No one else was around, but it was a place to reflect and give thanks to a brave crew of young men who died far from home. The "White Ensign" flew over the cemetery, but it is really tattered. Maybe that is appropriate for a place memorializing a crew and ship lost as they were. I wonder how many people stop to pay their respects at the little British Cemetery these days, and realize the sacrifice those young men made for us. I suspect that in season, most people are too busy buying tee shirts and kitschy stuff and finding various amusements.
We had wanted to visit the "Graveyard of the Atlantic" Museum, but it was closed on Sundays and we headed home on a Monday morning, early. We just did not fit that into our days, unfortunately. We did take the Ferry to Ocracoke Island from Hatteras. A free ferry ride, and nearly an hour in length. The actual "as the crow flies" distance between the ferry slips at Hatteras and Ocracoke is a very short distance. However, due to storms and resulting changes to the sea bottom, the ferry has to take a much longer route. The ferries are shallow draft vessels, equipped with Voith Cycloidal type propellors, and powered with 'Cat diesels. As a result, there is a fair amount of vibration and noise on the car deck. We did get out of the pickup and talked to a crew member and he told us a lot about the area. As we stood on the for'd end of the ferry going to Ocracoke, a couple of porpoises broke water and swam off the port side of the ferry for a bit. That made our day. The return crossing back to Hatteras showed us a beautiful sunset, and then after dark, the skipper turned on the searchlight on top of the wheelhouse. The searchlight picked up some large fish breaking water, which was also quite a thing to see.
We spent a few days just being lazy, eating plenty of great seafood, walking on the dunes or laying on the sand. I had driven down with our Tacoma 4 x 4 pickup and included a shovel, tow strap and chains, axe, bow saw and similar gear. I had seen 4 x 4 trails and areas designated on maps. When we got to Hatteras, we discovered a permit to go on the beaches with a 4 x 4 is fifty bucks. For a few days, it did not pay. Similarly, another permit has to be obtained for a fire on the beach, so we did not build any fires or cook out on the beach. The beaches were deserted, and we spread out a tarp and just let the sun and sea air do their work.
On the way home, we stopped at Kitty Hawk. This is the site worth visiting. I had read a few books about the Wright Brothers, so this was quite a thing to see.
Seeing the full-sized replica of the Wright Brothers' glider and their first plane was really amazing. There is a section of the crankcase of one of their engines of the type used in their first plane. Charlie Taylor, their machinist, had apparently used aluminum castings to build those engines, which, to me seemed fairly advanced for the day. There was a display of some of the tools the Wright Brothers used, or at least tools typical of what they might have used. Wife and I chuckled at the set of drawing instruments- I still use the same type of instruments. There were some lathe tool holders, but I had to bite my tongue. These were too modern for the era. They were Armstrong or Williams lathe tool holders with 1/4" square HSS toolbits, and a lathe cutoff tool holder that also looked a bit too modern for the 1900-1903 era. There was a wooden tee square of the type we used at Brooklyn Technical HS, which also caused us to chuckle. I still have a tee square like it in the house. The exhibits and overall historic site are very well done, and we spent about 1 1/2 hours there.
It was a good vacation trip for sure.