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Thread: Wade 8a #407

  1. #41
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    I used a light gray epoxy primer on the bed and legs. I'm powder coating all the small stuff like the apron and carriage.

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    Believe it or not, I haven't been slacking. Tail stock, follow rest, and steady rest have been disassembled, stripped, and painted. Long way to go though. Cross slide and saddle are next up.

    Tail stock and rests shown with cross slide already removed.

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    Slowly but surely. Cross slide is finished. However, I may have put the cross slide on backwards. Time to hit Google and Wade8a.com.

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    Cross slide is on correctly. Center front side lower edge of the casting has an arch to clear the feed dial. Rear side lower edge center does not have an arch, the rear surface has two (or more) holes for mounting a taper attachment, and the rear top surface has a locking bolt on the center line.

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  7. #45
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    Thanks! After trying a few approaches I realized I physically can't put it on wrong. Really beginning to appreciate this lathe's design. Almost can't put it together incorrectly.
    But, Inventor, you knew that already.

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    Made some headway on the carriage but not enough to post. However, I did get one of the nearly naked bed. Looks odd to me after seeing it with all the bits on it for so long. I'm looking forward to getting the head stock and controls off.

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    Carriage progress continues, slowly. I should have it finished this week.
    Next up is the apron. In an effort to keeping the gears right, I was thinking of stamping the gears with a number. A "rebuild by numbers" approach. I realize this may be a dumb question, but I'd rather ask a dumb question than do something really dumb, like crack a gear.
    Any concerns around stamping the gear flats? Small hammer and die with JUST enough force to imprint the number.
    Thoughts/feedback?

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    Take pictures and use a A LOT of Sharpie marks. You could add some stamped marks too, just be gentle!

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    Sharpie.... duh.... good call sandipaul

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    Sharpie rubs off. I'd take lots and lots of pictures. They cost nothing and you can document each part you disassemble.

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    Then a combination of all the above. Sharpie, gentle marks, and TONS of pics.

    Hard to see the progress, but there is SOME.
    Cross slide, carriage, and now a milled t-nut and Aloris AXA QCTP! (So stoked about the Aloris! TY PM!)
    Next up... the apron. [Dun dun dun.....]

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    Apron completed. Need to machine a lock out, but I knew that when I bought the lathe. Next up, head stock.

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    How the heck do I tear down the head stock?!?!?!?!


    Bed only. Naked and lonely. For now.


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    The headstock was the only thing I didn't take apart. I took off everything, but didn't take the spindle out. I toyed with removing it but I didn't want to mess with removing the bearings.

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    You have to remove the end play adjustment nut and the spindle gear, and then press the spindle out of the headstock. It's best left alone, unless you intend to replace the bearings, which are high precision units... they are still available from SKF, but are accordingly expensive. Due to the design of the spindle, it's difficult to protect the bearings from side loading during the pressing operation, and they will sometimes separate.

    Andy

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    Thanks Sandia and Andy! Decisions, decisions...... My OCD-sense is going NUTS right now. THIS is when and where one replaces things like bearings. Or, pay for it in twice the time later.... I learned this painful lesson as a teenager. I was 17 and rebuilding my first V8. (1968 Ford 302ci Windsor, IIRC.) It was High School Autoshop class. We tore it down, cleaned every part, mic'd/blue printed the heads, block, pistons, crank, etc. I was on a TIGHT budget. (Literally using hay bailing, rattle snake and varmint bounty funds.) Piston rings were "optional" and a little more cash than I had. So, like an stupid kid, I used the old set. 2 months later we fired up the throaty V8 just to hear it sound like absolute crap! Yup, nominal compression in EVERY cylinder. Let's just say the rebuild of the rebuild took a SUBSTANTIALLY shorter amount of time. (Running engine was the ONLY grade in the class. Pass/fail.) $50 decision cost me 3 months of my life. (Class time). Needless to say, the RE-firing of that engine was more than a small moral victory and a HUGE life lesson.
    DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME OR BE DAMNED TO DO IT AGAIN.

    Decisions, decisions.

    Also, to add some semi-valuable content, here's the side shot of the bearing markings in question. (Sorry, cruddy pics.)
    I THINK the markings are as follows.
    SKF - JC - NN3012K1C021
    The closest thing I could find on SKF's site during a QUICK search was NN 3012 KTN/SP. (I have NOT validated any measurements, etc.)

    I'll shoot SKF an email w/ pics of the bearing and see if they have a contemporary replacement. I have to assume these are the original bearings. If that assumption is correct, I'm not surprised they don't have this part number any more. (Assuming my aging eyes and crappy pics read the part number correctly to begin with!) Nothing quite like making a critical decision based PURELY on assumption and speculation.

    IF that is the correct part number....... I have to admit, I'm a suffering from a bit of sticker shock! They are $820 (USD) EACH!
    Motion Industries. IF that is the ball park of replacing them, I think I'll forego the replacement, unless absolutely necessary. ($500 shipped, I could justify, but not $1600, +/-).

    Anyone have any feedback on the part number? Do I have to press the bearings out to get the entire spindle out?








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    Gotta give the Technical Support at SKF some credit. Monday morning and less than a 1 hour response time to my inquiry!
    I believe the bearing number you have is actually NN 3012 K/C021. Please confirm if this seems reasonable based on the markings you see. The modern interchange would be NN 3012 KTN/SP.

    Dang! I was REALLY hoping that wouldn't be the part number. I'll be taking the head stock to a machinist friend of mine and get his opinion on the shape of the bearings. I can't feel any play in them but when spinning the spindle, there is SOMETHING that doesn't sound/feel quite right. Looking at the "Early" Wade 8a User Guide, page 19, #128 (2 of them) looks to be an inner bearing. I'm wondering if that bearing is what I'm feeling..... ? Time to break out the stethoscope.


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    I agree about doing it right the first time, but if you had to remove the headstock and replace bearings in the future it would not be such a bad job really. Have you put an indicator to the spindle? Check concentricity, and end play(which you can adjust as Andy pointed out) I knew the bearings were pricey and you indeed have confirmed that!

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    Sandi, Igrat point (duh!). I have not. I don't quite trust the indicators I have. Will do that next Saturday at my friend's shop. Great point, now I know how to pull the headstock, in the future it is straightforward enough.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darren McCarley View Post
    Gotta give the Technical Support at SKF some credit. Monday morning and less than a 1 hour response time to my inquiry!



    Dang! I was REALLY hoping that wouldn't be the part number. I'll be taking the head stock to a machinist friend of mine and get his opinion on the shape of the bearings. I can't feel any play in them but when spinning the spindle, there is SOMETHING that doesn't sound/feel quite right. Looking at the "Early" Wade 8a User Guide, page 19, #128 (2 of them) looks to be an inner bearing. I'm wondering if that bearing is what I'm feeling..... ? Time to break out the stethoscope.

    Those bearings are what the cone pulley runs on when the bull gear pin is disengaged (ie, for using the back gear).

    The front and rear main bearings are not the same unit. The front is a double row roller bearing, and the rear is a ball bearing. There is also a ball thrust bearing in there somewhere. Can't remember which end.

    Andy

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