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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    The headstock bearing oil cups are special. Everything else is still available from Gits (I just purchased some). I may still have the order paperwork with the part numbers.

    Andy
    Yes please! What do you mean "special"?

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    First nice weekend in A LONG time here in North Texas. Didnt get as much as I wanted completed but I did get the gear box, feed screw, and tumbler shaft installed. I'm missing a few parts on the apron so those shafts will have to come back off but I wanted to get SOMETHING done.
    I also removed the fan on the motor and will be replacing it with an "always on" fan. Hopefully powered by the, yet to be purchased, VFD.



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    Wow. Over a year since my last post. Work has slowed but not stopped. I've been blessed with a mentor who has taught me a great many things. He's also taken an interest in this project. We're nearly finished with "Wade 8a #407 Part No. 001". The "Feed Shaft" on my Wade was corroded and bent to the point where the worm feed drive would "hang" at various points across the shaft. So, what does one do? First, I tried to clean up and straighten the shaft. Rust scars remained but didn't impede function. Nature's oil pockets once the rust was removed. However, the bends in the shaft would have ultimately caused other issues. Therefore, we pulled a 7/16" rod, cut to Length + wiggle room. Cut a long key way, turned it down, and threaded. We did have to make some off set V-blocks before hand. You can see them employed along with the setup. It worked quite well. Love the mill and love the fact that I'm making parts to bring this Wade back!













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    Does anyone have one of these Wade 8a Interlock Blocks? It is part of the Apron assembly and, as I understand, disallows cross slide and lead screw power feed engagement. I have a good start on the measurements but need a few more. Centerline of the drive rod hole, distance between point X and Y, etc. Ideally, I'd be able to pull the measurements myself by borrowing one. (I'd pay for shipping, refundable deposit, etc.)
    Anyoe?








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    Finally found some time and uploaded the videos of us cutting the keyway on the feed shaft.
    Forgive my YouTube skills.




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  8. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darren McCarley View Post
    Does anyone have one of these Wade 8a Interlock Blocks? It is part of the Apron assembly and, as I understand, disallows cross slide and lead screw power feed engagement. I have a good start on the measurements but need a few more. Centerline of the drive rod hole, distance between point X and Y, etc. Ideally, I'd be able to pull the measurements myself by borrowing one. (I'd pay for shipping, refundable deposit, etc.)
    Anyoe?







    Hi Darren, I replied to your email on this... any that I have are used, and probably as worn as what you have. It is a part that seems to wear rapidly. Given the low production nature of 8A lathes, I think you'd do best to just make a block that fits your apron, rather than trying to measure one from another lathe. Wade made a lot of running changes to the 8A, particularly in the apron mechanism.

    Andy

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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  10. #107
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    Andy, thanks for the follow up. Sadly, I don't have this part in hand. However, I do see your point and will be measure, cut, fit, rinse/repeat until I have the part working. (Thanks again Lee for the pics and details!!)
    That interlock block will be made from some hard aluminum in an attempt to extend it's life expectancy. Sorry, I don't know the grade of aluminum. If I figure it out, I'll update the thread.
    For now, I'm learning to use eMachineShop's entry level CAD and have come up with the following. My intent is to use this design, refactor it, rough out the part and update the design once I have the part fitted and working. If I had access to a 3d printer, I'd print it and use it as a test piece, THEN machine it. Easier to shave plastic than aluminum, regardless of the grade.
    interlock-v004.jpg

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    Darren,

    I'd recommend 7075 aluminum, machines well and quite durable. That said I would make it from steel if I were doing it, prob 4140. Bronze would be another possible choice. Good to see you are making progress.

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    I thought about making it out of steel. However, I asked myself "Nearly everything on this lathe is so well thought out and provisioned. Why on earth would they make that out of brass?" The only conclusion I could come to was "they want it to fail". If anything breaks, what "should" break? The weakest part. The brass part.
    I admit, these are just my thoughts and I could be DEAD wrong. Regardless, aluminum should last longer than brass and be a bit more compliant than steel. Not to mention, once in use, this lathe shouldn't come close to the original intended use and/or abuse. I won't baby it, but I sure as heck won't be on a battleship turning WW-II parts.

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    Darren,

    That's a nice looking restoration you have in progress - keep up the great work!

    I started a restoration on Wade 8a #687 several years ago, which I was documenting in this thread -

    WTB Wade 8A tooling and accessories

    Life threw me some curve balls which stalled my project, but I still have the machine stored not far away and could take some measurements if you think that my #687 and your #407 would be close enough in production for those measurements to be of use to you.

    I hope to get back to my restoration next summer - never surrender!

    Bob

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  17. #111
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    Darren, I've enjoyed the thread, nice work so far!

    The one thing I would caution you on. It looks like with the ball thrust bearing that the spindle was designed expecting thrust loads to be only towards the headstock. I would avoid turning towards the tailstock when possible, or use a live center.

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  19. #112
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    Thanks for the accolades. Labor of love and a long journey. As I'm still quite a novice on all things machining, I plan on using tail stock/live center for most operations if/when I can. Using those on "left to right" operations sounds like a best practice anyway. (Over kill perhaps, but I've actually shot a fly w/ a shot gun so..... )
    Progress continues. I HAD planned on using a WEG motor. However, after counselling with my Mentor, I realized I pulled the trigger on a motor that was just too fast. (~3500 rpm). So, I acquired another motor. 2hp, 3p, ~1750rpm, VFD ready, etc. Of course it is a different frame so now I have some re-work. Also, retro-fitting the pulley system for a VFD driven setup is going to be INTERESTING! (To say the very least.) I believe we have a working theory that runs a long flat belt with an tension idler pulley. The idler pulley will most likely be a modified Ford serpentine belt idler. Most likely this one, or some variation. I'm a "Ford Guy" so that one came to mind first. However, at the end of the day, I don't really care. Custom, Ford, Chevy, or Ferrari.

    I've also learned a new definition of "clean". There's "Darren clean", then there's "CLEAN". We've managed to clean things up a ton and started putting head stock, back gear, and drive gears on. Heck, we can even move the carriage through the gear box now. Sadly, there seems to be more play in the drive gears than is ideal. The play causes the main gear to JUST bind a bit. I'm thinking I'm missing some spacers/washers. Does anyone have any pictures of ALL the parts, gears, washers, spacers, etc in the drive gear assembly on the left of the lathe/head stock? If not, Dr. Shim will be my new name.

    Anyway, progress continues, click on the images below for a larger image.

    No motor, drive gears, belt tower


    Motor sat in place just to have a visual on "What the heck do I do next?"


    Back gear installed, correctly. FINALLY. (That was a PITA!)


    Belt tower, drive gears, and gear cover installed


    Long but good day's work completed.

  20. #113
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    That's looking good! I can take pictures of mine if that helps. I'm sure you have the parts diagram? That is useful in putting things back together. I can supply if you need it.

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    Thanks! What I REALLY need is to see if there are any spacers, shims, washers, I'm missing between the drive gears on the left of the lathe. Specifically, the image below. However, in general as well, just to try and proactively troubleshoot potential bind issues.

    I do have the available manuals but they are lacking these minor details, as far as I can tell.


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    I went to take some pictures and I realize I have to take stuff apart to see that clearly. I attached an image from my manual. I found the manual to be really helpful in terms of putting things back together. In some cases it was years before it reassembled things. I attached it here, do you have that drawing and parts call out? If you really get in a bind I can take some stuff off and see.wade.jpg

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  26. #116
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    Sandi, thanks for the image. I have it, but not quite that clear. For now, it looks like there aren't any shims/washers behind the gears. I'm thinking the washers I have are just too thin. Easily resolved. If you get the chance, can you tell if the primary drive gear is offset from the others?

    Interesting and obvious finding. Wade 8a's have quite a few brass parts. (I love brass when it is shiny and when it has some patina.) As an avid Gun owner, I dabble in reloading too. Therefore, I have a decent little reloading setup. One thing I'm particular about is my reloading brass. It MUST be clean. So must my Wade brass parts. So, why not clean the brass bits the same way I do my brass cartridges. Warm water, dawn dish soap, some "Lemon Shine", and an hour in the tumbler with stainless steel pins. (Basically bearing pins.) VIOLA!! Gorgeous brass!!


    Hey Andy Fitzgibbons. You'll be getting back some DANG NICE brass.

    Before:






    After:






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    Here's the other bits I've tumbled. Way wipers. I wish I had taken before pictures. You could barely tell they were brass. No question now.
    NOTE: No polishing. Just a tumbler and some time.





    I've found some felt from McMaster Carr. Pricey but should work and last a long while.

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    I don't there is an offset. Was yours all together when you took it apart? I can't recall...Your brass parts look great. I need to get a tumbler!

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    Quote Originally Posted by sandiapaul View Post
    I don't there is an offset. Was yours all together when you took it apart? I can't recall...Your brass parts look great. I need to get a tumbler!
    I just use this one from Harbor Freight. There are alternatives and even DYI tumblers. This is the media I'm use from Amazon. Experiment with water, Dawn dish soap, Lemon Shine, media, and time on non-critical parts.

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    Made a little progress yesterday. Pulled the apron and test fitted the loaner parts. Specifically, the interlock block and the apron clutch shaft support bracket. (I think those are the right names.) I'll be making these parts out of some hard aluminum. (Again, not sure of the grade but it is dang hard, relative to "normal" aluminum.)





    Also, see those two holes on the bottom of the apron? I'll be making a "shelf" or bracket that will allow the interlock block to be supported. Every older interlock block I've seen has massive wear on the inside of the hole the shaft rides in. Hopefully I'll only have to make 1 of those blocks, once the block is supported.

    A couple of other "Fun Facts". Having procured, printed, and studied the Wade early and "tachometer" manuals, I BELIEVE I have quite the hodge podge of Wades.

    • Cabinet - Early Wade - Note the flared feet on the cabinet
    • Chip Tray - Tach Wade - Note the pedestal the lathe feet are mounted to. Early Wade trays don't look to have this pedestal/riser. Also, the belt tower for my early Wade simply doesn't fit on the pedestal. Note the "Tach" Wade's tower is MUCH bigger.
    • Apron - I THINK I have a Tach apron as there are the mounting holes for the lower micrometer shaft. (Total speculation here as I'm not familiar w/ the aprons on older Wades. Perhaps they did have these holes? Either way, I'm using them to save the interlock block. )


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