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weight capacity monarch lathe

idacal

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Location
new plymouth id
Im needing to turn an 1800 lbs piece that is 10' long on my monarch and am wondering were to find the max load it can turn. I have looked at all manuals I can find. its a 60 series 16" with 20.5 swing I have to run it with the tail stock will run it slow but Im a bit nervous. everything will clear but I dont want to do damage. my live center is rated for it. any advice would be great
 
I'm gonna take a wild guess and say that is probably doable. As long as the center is good for it I would probably give it a go. Curious to hear the actual capacity for that machine but a series 60 is good hefty machine. My 14x40 is rated to swing 1000lbs so probably ok for a 20" monarch.
 
abom79 turning large materiall - Bing video

I know of this utube guy [abom79] and forum member often turns similar sized shafts. I know he uses a monarch 60 series. Not sure if the lathe in the video is a 60.
You may try to throw the question out to him. He would know from doing it. He is a well respected machinist. Adam Booth
You can't a steady rest and move it as needed?

At 1800# I can see why your nervous.
 
I dont have a large enough steady rest have been looking for one that can hold 10" but haven't been able to find one. and haven't built one yet thank you john that also answered another question about how heavy of drill I can push.
 
I would think the live center would carry less than half. The four jaw chuck carries more of the load. percentage ?
 
I have a decent bull nose live center I will be using. the tail stock is a #4 morse this is one of those projects thats going to take me a while
 
I don't think it's so much the weight as the spindle speed.

I had a Jones and Lamson that barfed 5" bar for about a decade in the shop I bought it from. It had ripped itself off the floor several times in that period. It weighed 9600.

Keep it under 100 RPM and you'll be fine.
 
My thinking is with the chuck holding the stock the headstock bearings are sharing the load. The headstock journal works as a lever along with the castings support.
All the tailstock does is just supports the end. It's beyond my knowledge level also to give the weight distribution figures. It's just the way I see it.

I think that's what Rob F is getting at. It's not 50/50
 
another question I have is I need to drill or bore a 3"diameter hole 16" deep in a 36" long piece for another project I'm working on. I was thinking of ordering a 3" twist bit off of ebay then just step drilling it 5/8" then 2" then 3" but I have heard of spade bits didn't know if those could be used instead? I only need one hole for now and accuracy isn't important or is there a better way to do it?
 
another question I have is I need to drill or bore a 3"diameter hole 16" deep in a 36" long piece for another project I'm working on. I was thinking of ordering a 3" twist bit off of ebay then just step drilling it 5/8" then 2" then 3" but I have heard of spade bits didn't know if those could be used instead? I only need one hole for now and accuracy isn't important or is there a better way to do it?

Whatever you use, the slick-inside Monarch tail stock quill has no provision for tang of drill - so only the taper is doing the holding. May want to get the Aloris block that holds big Morse taper and let the carriage do the drilling
 
I did not realize there wasnt a tang slot on that tail stock i will quit drilling with it i have the morse block will drill with that easier to clean chips anyway
 
Measure the web thickness of your 3" drill. This is the size you want to drill your pilot hole. Take the rest out in one shot with the big drill.

I would want to use the tailstock, but hook something to it so you can power pull or push it with the carriage. I can't see a normal Aloris style toolpost pushing a 3" drill. That sounds like it will end poorly and be a PITA to set up. If you try to drill like that with the toolpost and there's any slop at all anywhere you will find it. The forces are trying to rip the entire carriage off the lathe unlike using the tailstock. The tailstock doesn't care. very light snug on the clamps and use carriage for power in and out.

3" drill takes some serious push to run properly. Not much HP, but lots of force involved.

If Monarch has no taper tang what in the world was the reason for that?
 
Whatever you use, the slick-inside Monarch tail stock quill has no provision for tang of drill - so only the taper is doing the holding. May want to get the Aloris block that holds big Morse taper and let the carriage do the drilling

You sure about that? Because there definitely is a tang slot in the TS ram of my 16" CY Monarch.

PDW
 








 
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