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Where can I find replacement parts? Montgomery Ward Drill Press

KyleDriver

Plastic
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Hello Everyone,

New member here. I recently purchased a Montgomery Ward drill press that is in need of a new front pulley. The rest of the drill press is great, just needs this pulley to be operational.

The model number on the badge is 34FD621B and it's a 15 inch bench top model. I attached pictures for clarification.

Any idea where I can find one? Or if someone on here has one I will buy it off you.

Press1.JPGPress2.JPGPress3.JPGPulley1.JPGPulley2.JPG
 
Dead ringer except for the pulley shield. Can you turn a new flange for it?

The only thing difficult here is the spline. It may be possible to either...

1. turn a plate to replace the broken flange and scab this on the remainder pulley and essentially make a "hollow" pulley. You may not see the repair with the shroud in place.

2. Turn down the pulley ENTIRELY leaving only the center hub/spline, which can be used to "bush" another similar pulley with a larger center hole. You can find step pulleys in all sorts of sizes/step ranges/center holes and I expect something out there is close or could be modified to take a bushing.

Of these two solution options it seems the first would give you the most satisfactory overall repair - the scab repair could be made a ring rather than a disk but this may make attachment to the parent pulley more dicey.

Joe in NH
 
Joe's right: the only difficult aspect is the spline. Other than that, you could hog the whole thing out of a big bar. A spline is do-able, but difficult get accurate with the skills and resources typically available in a small shop. You would not want to be buying an expensive spline broach for a single job. (Then again, if you are fairly young, you'll find some other uses for such a broach sometime in your life.)

The part is a zinc-alloy casting. Such alloys are noted for their propensity to disintegrate from corrosion. If one part of the casting fell apart, the rest of the casting may follow.

In a lathe, carefully part off the damaged top flange. You want to leave the bottom of the belt groove intact. You want to end up with the damaged top flange gone, and a cylindrical section.

Turn a ring from plate with an ID to match-fit the cylindrical "spigot" created in the previous paragraph. Mount them together with suitable epoxy and then turn the ring to the vee-belt groove profile.

The more I write, the more I like Joe's solution 2. Maybe put the existing spline bore as a bushing in one of these:
Amazon.com: 3/4bore V-Groove 4step Pulley: Automotive


Another idea: Call or write to Chicago Die Casting. They just might offer spline bores. Doesn't hurt to ask.

John Ruth
 

Monarchist is right. I have an addition:

Swap the good one in the back to the front with small diameter up. The bad one goes to the back with large diameter up. Belt goes on bottom for slowest speed. You have three out of four speeds. This is similar to my Delta/Rockwell, I never use the high end. Wait or machine a replacement. You might even forget all about it if the back pulley had a cover. :D

Idea: Tig weld close fitting piece in broken section and turn down. Or turn the entire ring (as in a frisbee piece) and weld in place, then turn down. (No firing squad guys, just an idea).
 
Monarchist is right. I have an addition:

Swap the good one in the back to the front with small diameter up. The bad one goes to the back with large diameter up. Belt goes on bottom for slowest speed. You have three out of four speeds.

This is better wherever one can do it, yes

However... the step-pulley on the motor almost certainly has a vanilla keyway, not the splines the front one has.
 
Monarchist is right. I have an addition:

Swap the good one in the back to the front with small diameter up. The bad one goes to the back with large diameter up. Belt goes on bottom for slowest speed. You have three out of four speeds. This is similar to my Delta/Rockwell, I never use the high end. Wait or machine a replacement. You might even forget all about it if the back pulley had a cover. :D

Idea: Tig weld close fitting piece in broken section and turn down. Or turn the entire ring (as in a frisbee piece) and weld in place, then turn down. (No firing squad guys, just an idea).

I really like that idea, but the back pulley has a different style bore for the motor.

Thanks for all the input so far. Right now I am either leaning towards trying to look around for one or turning this one down to bush the splined section into a better quality pulley. This pulley is really cheaply made so it is making me hesitant on looking for one.
 
I really like that idea, but the back pulley has a different style bore for the motor.

Thanks for all the input so far. Right now I am either leaning towards trying to look around for one or turning this one down to bush the splined section into a better quality pulley. This pulley is really cheaply made so it is making me hesitant on looking for one.

The entire drillpress is 'really cheaply made'. It only looks better-made because it was cheaply made in cast-iron instead of she-itmetal and (more)zinc "outlloy" than is already obvious.

By contrast, Walker-Turners -> K&T -> Rockwell punched above their weight and still live-on. And that whole tribe is basically WOOD working gear with LIGHT metal fab capability even so.

Stuff that is out of sight, such as bearings, size & strength of tables, columns, & clamps, spindle racks & pinions mattered, are not as obviously better than this one until one tears them down side-by-side.
 
I really like that idea, but the back pulley has a different style bore for the motor.

Thanks for all the input so far. Right now I am either leaning towards trying to look around for one or turning this one down to bush the splined section into a better quality pulley. This pulley is really cheaply made so it is making me hesitant on looking for one.

That is exactly why I logged in to say here. I think you might be better off turning down both pulleys. Then buy two new identical 4 step pulleys and inserting the bushings and locking them into position with a couple of set screws. What you have there is exactly why I started to get into this type of work.

I also think the idea above about turning one or two pulleys from solid stock is not a bad idea.

If you do nothing, the slowest speed is not available.
 
That is exactly why I logged in to say here. I think you might be better off turning down both pulleys. Then buy two new identical 4 step pulleys and inserting the bushings and locking them into position with a couple of set screws. What you have there is exactly why I started to get into this type of work.

From what I've seen, another stepped pulley won't have enough hub thickness to allow inserting the turned down hubs from those pulleys.
 
163-166 1" 6T COUPLING

163-1606+1++6T+COUPLING_L.jpg


Groove to groove centerlines aren't standardized.

Before we get to far into turning a sow's ear into a drill press, the OP has a use in mind for this. What is the intended use? Is there a plan for 1/4" shank drills larger than 1/4"? Metal or wood?

What is the rpm of the motor?
 








 
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