Oh Monarch fans........

Herb W · Apr 18, 2002

WAKEY WAKEY..the silence here is getting deafening! (recent 10ee thread excepted)
How 'bout we get some Q's & A's going...some discussion, some opinions, some debate...IOW, some participation!

After all, this forum, like any other, can only be & will only be what the participants choose to make of it, right?

Herb

toolfixr · Apr 19, 2002

As I have mentioned before, I am trying to restore my 13CK x 30 machine. The knot-head that had loaded (thrashed) it before I bought it had let it slide off the lift in such a way that the taper attachment casting was cracked. I will need to remove it and have it brazed. Is the best way to repair in this situation? Also, I need to have several if the gear shifting levers repaired also, unless I can find replacement parts. My machine is a 1953 model. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
PS: I am also looking for the door that encloses the spindle/clutch.

Herb W · Apr 19, 2002

toolfixr
It's too bad that your lathe was damaged...seems to happen all too often!
Don't know how much help I can be, but I'll give it a shot.
Taper attach. - guess alot depends on how badly it's damaged, where the crack is etc. If you're taking it to someone for repair, just make sure that they are competent & familiar with machine tools (aware of the importance of maintaining alignment of the parts etc)
Shift levers - does your year of lathe still have the cast type levers? If so, if they're broken, anyone competent at repairing cast should easily be able to braze or weld them.
Clutch cover - if it's like the one on my '40 C, I'd think that you need to find someone who does sheet metal forming..perhaps an autobody type guy could make you one.

As far as I know, all of the older CKs are 12CK. I'm guessing that at some point (some year) they changed to the 13 designation.
What is the swing on the 13 model?

Herb

BTW I was informed by the people at Monarch, that many, if not most, parts are still available. I didn't price anything but have heard that prices are downright frightening.

[This message has been edited by Herb W (edited 04-18-2002).]

Bruce L · Apr 19, 2002

I have recently aquired a 10ee. It is Serial Number 47490. It has the optional taper attachment and the electric leadscrew reverse. I believe it is wired for 220v 3 phase power. (the coolant pump calls for 208v) I have not run it yet. To be honest I am somewhat overwhelmed by the complexity of the drive as well as the thirty plus different levers, controls, and switches that are every where you look on this thing. Fortunately I recieved excellent documentation with the lathe. The owners manual and all the scematics appear to be here and are in excellent shape.

I have some basic questions to begin with: I have read both here and elsewhere that at least some 10ee lathes can be run on single phase power. I have also read that phase converters can be a problem for this lathe. I would appreciate advice on this because I do not have three phase power readily available.

The lathe did not come with a tool post holder. What size aloris type tool post would be best for this machine?

Any help will be much appreciated.

Bruce Lahmayer

[This message has been edited by Bruce L (edited 04-19-2002).]

Tommy · Apr 19, 2002

Bruce:

Several of us seem to be in the same boat... newly acquired machines, and concerns about adapting to home shop power, complexity of the system, etc. However,I've been encouraged by posts on this group as well those archived on other sites, and feel the results will be worth the learning curve.

The initial groundwork is being laid by interested parties familiar with this era of industrial electronics for a general understanding and possibly modifications that could be beneficial to us all.

I am convinced that use of the original circuit concept s the way to go, but also believe that modernization of certain components would be nice if possible. I'm afraid that I was hopelessly hooked when I first slid out the electronics tray and got a whiff of that wonderful electro-mechanical aroma. Brought back memories of the Link Trainer in which I received Instrument Flight training in the 1960's (the Link Trainer was the predecessor of modern flight simulators and a marvel of WWII complexity described by one of my instructors as "a cross between a pinball machine and a hay bailer").

enjoy

toolfixr · Apr 19, 2002

Herb,
I just went down and looked at the data plate on my 13' Monarch. The model is 13"
Actual swing: 15.5
Serial number 37338
Assembled: 9-1953
This is all the info I could find on the machine. I think I picked up the CK designation from another source on the web, from a picture and description. It may have been from Tony's UK lathes site. Yes, this machine does have the cast levers. I know I can easily make up functioning levers, but I am trying to keep things as authentic as possible. I have all the pieces of the broken access door, and will try to assemble it with steel or aluminum epoxy.

Herb W · Apr 19, 2002

toolfixr
On my lathe, it has 12KK on the plate, and on the flat, just inside the V way at the right hand end of the bed, it's stamped CKK 8858. Perhaps you could check for lettering there.
Does yours look like the CK in the UK lathe pics? http://www.lathes.co.uk/monarch/index.html
If it is a CK, then presumably, at some point in time, they increased the swing by an inch. I wonder if they changed anything else?
I was thinking that the clutch cover was just formed sheet metal but now that I see your post, I realise that it's obviously a casting...I'd forgotten - should have gone out & looked! Anyway, hope you're able to put it back together!

Herb

danz · Apr 21, 2002

Originally posted by Bruce L:
I have recently aquired a 10ee. It is Serial Number 47490. <snip> Fortunately I recieved excellent documentation with the lathe. The owners manual and all the scematics appear to be here and are in excellent shape.

Please consider posting copies of the documentation in the DropBox after you have accumulated all the identifying info on your lathe. Include the specifics on your lathe in the same place so that others can compare the info from their own lathes. We can get a complete library of Monarch info assembled into one place that way. Maybe even generate a CD as a portable record...

danz

Bruce L · Apr 21, 2002

I do have the ability to scan or digitally photograph my documentation. But please be patient with me, I can't find the "drop-box".

My documentation is in a folder with a cover sheet that has the serial number. There is the original order sheet specifying the options for the lathe. There is a brochure covering general set up procedures for several different Monarch lathes. There is a lubrication manual for several different Monarch lathes. The Operators manual is there. And 29 more individual pages of exploded diagrams and wiring schematics of various sizes. The owners manual is printed on high quality paper. The other documentation appears to be photo copier quality and some is rather poor such as what you would get if you photocopy a blueprint.

I consider myself lucky to have gotten the documentation and especially since it is in such good shape. But the truth is I'm going to need help interpreting a lot of it.

Bruce L

J Tiers · Apr 21, 2002

Bruce:
The EE schematic I have via Art Volz shows that aside from the coolant motor, absolutely everything else runs on L1 and L2.

A rotary converter of size sufficient for the coolant would work great, I would think.

Herb W · Apr 21, 2002

Bruce
Here's the link to the dropbox http://metalworking.com/dropbox/

toolfixr · Apr 21, 2002

Herb,
I went down and found the numbers on the lathe bed behind the front V-way and it is the same serial number as on the data plate on the headstock. There is no letter of any kind with it, however, there does seem to be an impression of a square with a crown inside it. This is a very light and uneven stamp. I think I will contact the Lodge and Shipley/Monarch site and see if they can provide any info. I looked at the pictures of the CK's on Tony's UK site and found that my lathe does not look much like that. My machine seems to be a little heavier than that. I had been told a long time ago that the machine weighs 4300 or 4600 pounds!

Herb W · Apr 23, 2002

toolfixr
Found a site with some pics of lathes for sale, including 3 different Monarchs. http://www.mauldinmachine.com/lathes.html
Any of them look familiar?

toolfixr · Apr 23, 2002

Herb,
Thanks for tracking this down. Mine is apparently a model 60. Looks just like the photo of the 16 x 54 machine. I am sure I will enjoy this machine and chasing down used parts for it ( the 13 x 30 ). this is probably not as good as the CK's, but will have to persue that some other time. I have kind of a full plate now as I am also trying to clean up a 15"x40 Reiden (swiss), A 10" x 36" Sheldon, and an old 13" x 22" LeBlond. I'm having fun tho'.

commoncal · Dec 5, 2017

toolfixr said:
As I have mentioned before, I am trying to restore my 13CK x 30 machine. The knot-head that had loaded (thrashed) it before I bought it had let it slide off the lift in such a way that the taper attachment casting was cracked. I will need to remove it and have it brazed. Is the best way to repair in this situation? Also, I need to have several if the gear shifting levers repaired also, unless I can find replacement parts. My machine is a 1953 model. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
PS: I am also looking for the door that encloses the spindle/clutch.

I have a Monarch 12KK Mfg 1942. Bought it some years back and am off grid with so run it I replaced the 3 phase motor with a treadmill motor and good controller. It will no hog steel, but sure dose great work.

As to the manual, I have an original and it too leaves a lot to be desired. So am updating the info in it as I learn. I am ready to print change v1.1.

John S01 · Dec 8, 2017

This one gets an award for the oldest revived thread in history - 15 years.

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