Third party QC Toolpost for the HLV

Hi,

Which of the Aloris type (or knock-off) QC toolposts fit the HLV with little or no modification?

Also, is it OK to run an HLV on a static 3 phase converter or must I use a rotary one?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Kory

If You have a Real Hardinge HLV-H, they deserve a Real Aloris AXA Tool Post.

Trust Me On This

That's fine. So AXA it is.

I also have questions regarding adding a DRO to an HLV-H. I would like to know the best places to mount the scales. I have never installed a DRO on a Lathe, on a mill which seems much easier to me right now.

Thanks,
Kory

kory --

I'll halfway argue with JimK on this one and suggest that you take a good look at KDK.

A new KDK toolpost isn't going to be much (if any) less expensive than an Aloris, but I think that they're much easier to look at and also easier to adjust.

(Ah, "personal taste" . . . Ford or Chevy, Model 70 or Model 700, Compac or Interrapid?)

John

John,

Agreed. I have the KDK "0" on my Prazi and I really like it. Which one for the HLV-H? The spindle is 3" above the compound slide, so I may need the KDK 100.

Kory

Go MULTIFIX guys !

"A" type for an HLV-H. You won't regret it.
Their only downside is, you definitely can't make your own toolholders.

Just to provide a different perspective, I've used an Aloris BXA system on my HLV-H ever since I got it. I chose that size because that's what the master tool and die maker bought for the four HLV-Hs in the IBM developmental lab where I worked back in the 70s. I have the teenut threaded in both the center for normal work and offset to one side for those few cases where the toolholder needs to be slightly below the compound surface. There are two benefits - rigidity/mass is greater than the AXA, and the toolholders will accomodate the larger 3/4" Valenite, Carboloy, and Kennametal high buck carbide toolholders if you whack .100" off of the bottom. These tool holders are generally quite inexpensive on ebay because they are too large for the hobby community, which tends to drive up the prices on the smaller tools.

As far as the phase converter is concerned, it won't make any difference to the Hardinge. Your choice is going to be driven by economics. For example, if the lathe is 460v, it will generally be cheaper to go single phase up through a transformer to the operating voltage and then generate the three phases. Under those conditions a VFD is pretty inexpensive on ebay.

AAFRadio,

That's interesting on the phase converter. I was told today that the HLV-H won't run on a static phase converter. I have to use a rotary or a VFD. I happen to have a 220 VAC single phase in 3 phase out 2 HP VFD. Maybe I'll give that a try. Never thought of the VFD route.

Kory

I don't think a static converter will run the low speed side of the 2 speed motor. The VFD will not allow you to go quickly from high to low as the lever now allows you to do now.
I have converted an HLV to a 5 HP spindle drive. I use 2 speed pots and with the factory drum switch, I can switch between the 2 ranges that are set at 2 separate speeds. Best bet, go rotary. Make one yourself on the cheap if you have to.
Good luck,
Paul B

I'm no fan of the static converters, believe me - they are essentially the passive components of a rotary converter packaged to use your lathe drive motor as its own idler. Two problems with it - you lose a third or more of the normal torque capacity and you'll need two different values of capacitors to properly tune the HLV's motor for both low and high speed positions. Easier to get a 3hp idler and be done with it. Having said that, there are a couple of reasons I use a dedicated VFD on the Hardinge. The first is that the 1hp HLV-H motor is not in that huge 5hp frame for nothing. It is physically larger to permit balancing of the rotor to 0.0005 ounce. This not only makes any vibration in the motor virtually immeasurable, but it also makes any direct replacement @#!%% expensive. Most of the later VFDs treat the motor like a baby, constantly monitoring it for problems, ramping the speed up and down rather than popping the power to it, etc. With a motor that expensive, I think it makes sense to provide the extra protection a good VFD offers. With patience a late 460v 1-2hp VFD will run about a hundred bucks on ebay (I'm not talking the cheaper Dealers Electric units, either.) If your lathe is 220 and you already have the VFD then I'd use it. Lot quieter than a rotary, too.

The other reason I like a VFD is that occasionally I run into a situation where I need the lathe to turn very slowly, such as in winding coils or making a spring. Pretty easy to do with a VFD cranked back to 15-30 Hz.

Best wishes,
Mike