I think that our present government ought to
put their foot down and prohibit timken from
moving their production overseas. As Joe
says it's just to vital an industry. I think
instead of 'foot down' they've got their 'hand
out' instead.
As far as BMW motorbike bearings goes, though,
I think you don't have to worry about your
(joe's) experience changing wheel bearings.
Bearing manufacturers cannot even now reliably
insure that a brand new set (from the _same_
manufacturer) will stack up with the same
spacers as an old set. So BMW has spacer
swapping as a regular feature when putting in
new wheel bearings.
A surface grinder makes this easy, but I also
do it with an internal expanding 5C collet
that's set up for the bore ID of the spacers.
The trick is to take *all* the grease out of
the bearings, assemble them in the hub (a spacer
for the axle is required here) and load them
up with the axle nut. Then put a good dial gage
on the axle and touch off on the hub. Push/pull
on the rim - straight in and out - to read the
TIR of clearance. Then cut the wedding ring
spacer down so that reads about a thou or maybe
a little less. The clearance will decrease as
the axle nut loads up the stack.
BMW sells the spacers in fairly wide increments,
so they're not trying to acheive zero clearance
on the stack. They're just trying to keep it
from going above 1 mm, or negative by 1 mm!
If for some reason the clearance is *negative*
when checked, one either needs a thicker wedding
ring, or needs to remove the OD spacer spool to
cut it down a few thou. This means heating the
hub to take the right-side outer race out. Never
drive the races out without heating the hub,
because you will eventually wind up having to
locktite them back in with the green bearing
retention compound.
Jim