I spent almost a year looking, asking, sifting through the stuff you get on your boots when walking through the animal pens. I finally bought a Grizzly G4003 GH. I like it fine, but I spent 2 weeks working through the all the little things people suggested to check and adjust. It has a camlock to hold chucks and I spent a day apiece to get all the chucks squared away. I had to turn the face plate face, outside edge and bore to get it dialed in. I just kept taking the chucks out, turning, screwing with the cam pins by swapping them around, until I had all the runout, run out. 3 factoral 3 or 3 raised to the 3rd power, 27 times minimum, or something like that, then I setup a tool post grinder with a 1" stone, cranked up the speed and just lightly touched inside of the jaws to get all the burrs and dingleberrys.
I center punched marks on the jaws, face plate, 5MT adapter and 3MT center and on the camlock, plus scribed a line on all the pieces including the tail stock for reference. So far, as long as I keep those lines lined up and put the chucks and face plate in the same way each time, it only takes a bit of jiggling or a tap with a rubber mallet to keep inside that magic number. I messed with the jaws also, swapping them around, they weren't marked nor was the groove, but they are now. Everything I turn in the three jaw gets indicated in as close as it will go by tightening all three jaw screws just like I would with a 4 jaw, then I mark it for #1 jaw. As long as I replace it as close to the same point as I can get it, it will be very close in register. This is the 3jaw that came with the Grizzly.
I am very careful how tight I clamp material. I can hold a 1.250" polished round thing without marring it as long as it doesn't spin. Hence the reason for my light cuts. Just a piece of clear tape is all thats needed. So far every new barrel is just set up on centers while I turn the muzzle, no dogs or other holding/turning device on the barrel. Friction alone will turn it as long as the cuts are light. But, only for 0.600" to 0.800" on a tapered barrel and almost to one full inch on a straight tube, then cutting friction overcomes the friction of the centers. I put the turned end in the three jaw then check it. It is, again, not advisable when you either eat beans or eat the barrel.
I thought about a 6 jaw and it was top of the list to buy. It has a whole bunch of desirable traits and I may just get one, but right now I'm trying to get a mill set up so it will have to wait.
I just bought another LA and SA with the Accu-trigger. That is one nice trigger. I though Timney was nice, after I stroked it, but the Accu beats it hands down. Damn, I like Savages but hate going to town. Today was the last day on sale and $250 for a LA is hard to turn down even for a 3 hour plus drive.
Kurt; Tell me more about this 6 jaw slipping. What was you turning, feed, speed, cut and all the other good stuff. Thanks.