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Reconditioning ways

Jeff_G

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 25, 2004
Location
Granite, MD USA
Anyone have any experience with having ways reconditioned professionally? I'm thinking of buying a 9" - lots of them on EBay and elsewhere but if I can't actually see the machine before I buy, how much risk am I taking? Anyone hand-scraped their own?

Thanks,
Jeff Greenblatt
 
Jeff,
The handscraping is only effective if the bed has been ground flat. Some guys call it "high spotting". You cannot repair worn ways with scraping. I sent a 36" 10L bed back to South Bend and they charged $1000 to regrind it. Of course when you regrind the bed you have to repair the wear on the saddle, that was another $250. If you don't do this the carriage will not line up with the leadscrew. This will wear out the fit on the output from gearbox and leadscrew support at the tailstock. You would be better off to find a lathe with less wear on the ways. They are out there.I still haven't put the 10L back together, it was a lot more work than I thought. I'll get it done this winter, I just wanted to go over each screw, bolt and shaft, and restore this fine machine to 100%. I still have about $500 in parts I need to buy to make it perfect!
Paul
 
Most 9" SB's (if not all?) had soft ways. They are easy to scrape, as far as mechancal effort. OTOH, a lathe requires a fair amount of concentrated thought, and some good reference tools, to scrape well for alignment. There is an ongoing current series on scraping a lathe back into tolerance by Harry Bloom, (who I believe may post here), in HSM. It is very detailed, easy to follow, and in depth.

I've scraped a fair number of similarly complicated ways on various machines including grinders, though not a lathe, yet.

Basically you should form a plan, make sure it is logical, and then proceed with diligence. Ideally, read Machine Tool Reconditioning, and keep a copy handy to refer to as far as the inspection methods for aligning a lathe.

Getting it ground would save a lot of time. you then have to re-scrape all the other parts to match the bed, though.

smt
 
"The handscraping is only effective if the bed has been ground flat. Some guys call it "high spotting". You cannot repair worn ways with scraping."

Harry Bloom does it by hand, and he has done it on a flame-hardened ways Monarch, using a carbide scraping tool in a power-driven scraper, too.

There's a four-part article in HSM on the reconditioning of an old 12" Monarch CK.

The easy way out on any lathe is to send the bed to Commerce Grinding in Dallas, or any other facility which does machine tool way grinding.

Whenever the bed is ground, one of the trickier items will be to line-up the apron with the lead screw.

Some have elected to restore the carriage to its old height using Moglice.
 
"The handscraping is only effective if the bed has been ground flat. Some guys call it "high spotting". You cannot repair worn ways with scraping."

Rubbish! Handscraping has been used since the time of Maudsley (before planers, not to metnion grinders)to make and refurbish machine tool ways.

Here are some grinder ways I re-scraped about 3 years ago. This is a 6-18 grinder and the ways are about 30" long. They were banana shaped with a fair amount of wear in the centers when the machine was acquired. There is no good way to get a photo of the cross ways (Z) without disassembly, but that axis had over .015 wear in the center of the travels, with the supporting ways similarly worn off on the ends. After re-scraping all the ways, the machine would indicate a new grade B surface plate within .0002 - .0003 everywhere to the limit of the travels. That is to say, the error is ambiguous within the limits of the grade surface plate used. They are not "frosted", but left as scraped. The parallel lines in the surfaces are not scratches, they are burnish marks from the lubricating rollers after several years use. There are 4 spring loaded rolls, 2 at each end of the supporting ways, in wells or reservoirs of way lube. They are pressed up to the ways by the springs, and distribute the lube as the table cycles. The scraping marks and roller tracks look "deep" but none will actually much catch a finger nail.

grinderwayscrape.jpg


I've scraped some hardened ways by hand, also including the top toolslide on one of my hardinge split beds; and the hardened bed and fixed jaw of a Kurt clone vise. But if the ways are hardened, grinding sure is convenient!

BTW, i believe I could scrape a set of ways as shown, in about the same time and effort as it would take to crate up the part *safely*, arrange shipping and deliver it to the terminal,ship it off, and then worry about the return trip. (I.e., about a day all told) And of course, the hard part of the job is not the obvious parts shown such as a lathe bed or grinder table ways; but the mating parts and cross ways that the whole assembley has to work with.

smt
 
I think I could scrape a single surface, but feel I need some expert help in how to scrape long v-ways, keep twist out, keep multiple v-ways parallel and level with each other, keep the distance between v-ways equal, and other problems not yet thought of (unknown unknowns). I have seen several references to a tool reconditioning book, but it is out of print. I have also seen references to the Harry Bloom article. Does it have enough detail, and if so where can I get it? All help appreciated.
 
I had the bed of my SB 10L ground and polished. I also had the cross-slide dovetails machined and fitted with phenolic. The saddle was also fitted with phenolic and scraped in.

It is now perfect. All for $900.

-Kevin
 
nt1953 said:
"I have seen several references to a tool reconditioning book, but it is out of print."

Machine Tool Reconditioning by Edward Connelly I don't think is out of print, just expensive. You can't buy a new copy anymore for $18.50 like I did in 1969. It is available at www.machinetoolpublications.com

Harry Bloom's series is ongoing in Home Shop Machinist magazine.

John
 
If you have the ways on the bed ground or lightly planed hand scrapping the rest to fut is easy just very time consuming.
 
If you decide to send it out to be ground , be sure to ask around for some references. There are some real scam artists out there selling services they have no clue how to do properly.
 
nt1953- I did not intend the article to be a sole source reference for scraping a lathe, it is intended that "Machine Tool Reconditioning" be used as the main reference; had I done otherwise the article would have been impossibly long and most likely never published. I did change the scraping sequence in a major way by scraping the bed first and not having any other templates, such as the completed carriage and tailstock base, to act as guides in the process. I had proven the sequence used, with some minor modifications, when I scraped the bed of my 10EE, which was in far better shape and just needed a touching up, a few months earlier. This is not a sequence that I would recommend for the inexperienced, instead I think the new scraper should follow MTR.
Scraping a machine tool is not a haphazard process, it is a highly structured process that is detailed, in depth, in MTR. I thought long and hard about the sequence change(s), and felt confident enough in my abilities to carry them out.
You can subscribe to HSM by contacting them at;
www.homeshopmachinist.net
that's the "other" BBS.
Harry
 
Stephen Thomas,
I have been insulted by you and your arrogant self loving, gay admiring attitude for the third time now. My advice was for a novice lathe buyer, not a lifetime skilled machinist. You state your accuracy in 1 ten thousandths of an inch. I doubt you can even measure that tolerance repetitively, but here is my challenge to you. I have a 1956 Rockford 16" lathe that has gouges and a dip in the 10' ways. If you want to hand scrape the 10' ways that are 9" apart to a tolerance of the 2 to 3 ten thousandths of an inch you brag about in your post, in the 12 hours I would have in shipping it to the Indy grinder (90 minutes out - 9 hours machining-90 minutes back) I'll give you the $1500 they quoted. Not only that , I'll admit in this forum that you are the best machinist in the world. I have machinists that worked their entire careers at Cincinnati Milacron that will measure your accuracy. Professional scrapers by trade. I can bring in a couple of retired GEAA engineers and an Air Force QC compliance officer to back up their findings. I'll deliver the bed to you in Virginia or Md. and you have 12 hours to finish to 2 -3 ten thousandths of an inch in all 3 planes. Do you want to take the bet, or just keep spewing your "I'm better than you" RUBBISH. I'll put the money in a third parties hand. You will do the same and if you cannot do what you say you can I will expect a full apology on this forum and you agree to never post here again. I'll do the same. We could even have Forrest Addy supervise the measuring process and report to HSM the results. If you don't accept the challenge I will take this as an admission on your part that you are full of shit and can't back up your big mouth claims.
Peter H, your point about alignment is exactley why I sent the job out, if my passion is not restoring, but working the lathe, why spend my hours on specific accuracy fo recoditioning when I can otherwise be spinning the the spindle, which is what I like to do? Harry Bloom has skills that no novice can even comprehend.
 
John and Harry,
Many thanks for your advise and replys. I have 4 lathes I would like to fully restore, and think I will start with the smallest, a 9" Model A. I want to learn how to scrape a lathe, so I guess I will plunk down the cash for the book, and will also read your articles. Thanks again.
 
I think if I were to learn to do an entire lathe, I would indeed choose a 9" south bend,
because they're commonly available and fairly
inexpensive, at least those that are in bad
need of rebuilding. Also I would choose one
without flame hard ways - and most of those fit
that classification.

The largest impediment to doing the job would be
obtaining a large enough surface plate and
straight edge to do the bed.

Also I would want to have a milling machine or
planer to rough out the ways to keep from having
to scrape out five or ten thou of wear.

The cost of large master gages for spotting, and
the need to rough out large areas, makes it
economical for me to simply purchase another,
more accurate machine, which is what I've always
done in the past. This notwithstanding the
ability to remanufacture precision ways is an
intriquing task. I've dabbled a bit with
toolmaker lathes compound slides and have found
that items like that, or compound slides from a
larger lathe's carriage, make good learning
projects.

I think that certainly during the holidays it
makes sense to take hobbies like this as enjoyment
and not get too involved.

Jim
 
Paul Benoit

You certainly seem to have personalized and read a whole lot more into my post than the summary of the points made. In response to the original question, I noted: 1.) it is possible to hand scrape ways into alignment and a 9” SB is a reasonable project, but it needs to be approached with a well thought out plan. 2.) read Harry Bloom’s current article in HSM about restoring a lathe for an excellent presentation of the work and process you might be getting into. 3.) obtain, read, and keep handy for reference, Machine Tool Reconditioning to clarify the methods, equipment, and inspection procedures.

Succeeding posts made the same points, but is seems my presentation somehow hurt your feelings.

You surely must know that contrary to your suggestion, I am not a “life long machinist”. I am a woodworker who didn’t have any money for machine tools, back in the late 70’s and early 80’s when even junk was still quite valuable. One of the best things that happened to me was that a guy named Andy Lofquist introduced me to scraping, and somewhat to patternmaking. This was like opening up the world to me! Now the possibilities of obtaining machine tools, and producing some forms of work, depended ever more strongly on any abilities I could develop, not on how big my wallet was(n’t!). Naturally, along the way, there was the hard lesson, eventually, that some projects are too big to take on. It was so difficult to get what skills that I do have, that it always seems to me that if I could do it, certainly anybody can. Perhaps this is a form of pride, but it is not my intention when posting. I put my stuff up with the hopes that life long machinists will comment, critique, and challenge me to improve. If you don’t put your projects up for public review, how will you know if you are working in a vacuum or not? I like to see lots of projects and machines by others. It is the best way to learn. In posting pictures, I sometimes hope to encourage others to post more pictures by doing my part, but perhaps that is a mistaken sense of importance on my part, and I will try to restrain the urge if it is offending people.

To address your specific allegations:

“….Stephen Thomas,
I have been insulted by you and your arrogant self loving, gay admiring attitude for the third time now….”

I do not know what you are referring to. My memory of your recent posts is the one on Plexiglass/Lucite that was very informative for me, though I may not have commented. The other was on machinery and flow organization in a shop which hit the nail on the head, and I said so. I do remember that when you first came on this list, we disagreed about the tolerances for knife projection in a wood planer. You stated a fact, I rebutted, at which point the debate devolved into someone making insinuating comments about my integrity and impugning my character and honesty. This is what happened above. It is not an insult to be wrong. But you resorted to insinuations and name calling, and that is insulting

“…My advice was for a novice lathe buyer, not a lifetime skilled machinist….”You state your accuracy in 1 ten thousandths of an inch. I doubt you can even measure that tolerance repetitively,…”

Read what I wrote, not what you wish I had written for your purposes. A new grade B surface plate was leveled on the table and indicated with a “tenths” reading Federal indicator “all over” the travels. (several times) All data in any test is subject to interpretation for conditions noted, including in this case the grade of the surface plate used. But the report is factual and the data repeated.

“…. but here is my challenge to you. I have a 1956 Rockford 16" lathe that has gouges and a dip in the 10' ways. If you want to hand scrape the 10' ways that are 9" apart to a tolerance of the 2 to 3 ten thousandths of an inch you brag about in your post, in the 12 hours I would have in shipping it to the Indy grinder (90 minutes out - 9 hours machining-90 minutes back) I'll give you the $1500 they quoted….”

This is a bogus challenge on your part and in no way equates to anything I posted. I have skills and tools to work up to about 5’ way length. I work to please myself and periodically put things “out there” for a reality check, feed back, and constructive critique. I owe you absolutely nothing.

“….Not only that, I'll admit in this forum that you are the best machinist in the world…..”

PL, you completely misunderstand my reasons for posting. I do put my work up for critique on this forum as time and interest permits. I am surprised and disappointed that it is seen in the light you take it. I have some good skills in a few areas related to woodworking, and am working to develop in machining wherever possible.

“……I have machinists that worked their entire careers at Cincinnati Milacron that will measure your accuracy. Professional scrapers by trade. I can bring in a couple of retired GEAA engineers and an Air Force QC compliance officer to back up their findings….”

You have important and influential friends.

“… I'll deliver the bed to you in Virginia or Md. and you have 12 hours to finish to 2 -3 ten thousandths of an inch in all 3 planes. Do you want to take the bet, or just keep spewing your "I'm better than you" RUBBISH….”

You do misinterpret my intent, but perhaps my presentation causes others to see me as prideful as well, so I will try to examine that. I don’t think I am better, my excitement is that is some areas “I can keep up!” & “I can do this and I don’t have the high dollar machine!” or even pretty machines. Or even the “right” machine. I’ll try to reflect more before posting. It would be delightful to have a tour, and first hand education in some of the facilities you mention.

“….I'll put the money in a third parties hand. You will do the same and if you cannot do what you say you can I will expect a full apology on this forum and you agree to never post here again. I'll do the same….”

Now you are being petulant and self referential. So far, you have created a factual interchange as an opportunity to sling personal invective at me. There may be some important reminders for me personally to examine. You have thrown a lot of mud, but I have bad days, too. You don’t need to make an apology, and I won’t either.

“….We could even have Forrest Addy supervise the measuring process and report to HSM the results. If you don't accept the challenge I will take this as an admission on your part that you are full of shit and can't back up your big mouth claims…..”

Forrest Addy is a hero of mine; although I do have the irritating habit of rabidly challenging him over matters of “free speech in the interest of harmonious relations”. That is, I routinely suggest that it is worthwhile to have spews like yours delivered uncensored. I feel it clears the air and is worthwhile for getting to truly know a person. As mentioned before, I have bad days too.

Your mention of HSM in this context is interesting. They have vetted quite a bit of my scribbles in the past. Poor Joe Rice suffered through 12 or 13 installments of my stuff. In retrospect, I have little doubt it will please your predjudices to hear I realize now he was a saint to deal with me, and I owe him a lot. The grinder project described above was originally intended by me to be a follow-up to the 5 part “Shape & Scrape” series in Dec 1997 - Aug 98. But the photography (5 or 6 rolls) came out really bad, and I never proposed it to them. Once the grinder was together, it was too dauting to take apart again to “stage” the photography. I have always wondered what a neutral disinterested “pro” would make of the (S & S) series, and would truly be interested to hear. It’s on public record. Have at it! It was an early effort, though I am satisfied that a lot of useful information was conveyed. But no doubt, there are criticisms to hear, and lessons to learn. I’d like to learn them. Hearing I was wrong can sting, but I can always grow and move on.

No doubt you would find it further evidence of overweaning pride on my part, but since you raised the question, I am also prepared to post to this site, as much as is useful, of the photodocumentary of the scraping and inspection process on the grinder above. Again, no intent to step on toes. From what I hear from you, I have probably been a bit too much forward lately. Things have been in a state personally where I do a lot of pushing everyday without much concrete sense of accomplishment at the end of the week. Perhaps that is why I am taking refuge in revisiting machining projects that went well, at least for my purposes.

”….Peter H, your point about alignment is exactly why I sent the job out, if my passion is not restoring, but working the lathe, why spend my hours on specific accuracy fo reconditioning when I can otherwise be spinning the the spindle, which is what I like to do?...”

Well, then here’s a challenge for you: Post some of your projects. Help us learn to extend skills rather than limit them. Post some progress on your lathe and show how you have planned the rehab. Don’t wait until it is all shiny new and only tell us how much you spent.

“…. Harry Bloom has skills that no novice can even comprehend….”

Not quite true. What is impressive is that Harry Bloom is willing to make the serious effort it takes to write and article, and show the process of his projects, so that the rest of us can learn. He is helping novices grow and understand possibilities and he makes it accessible.

smt
 
Stephen,
I'll be the first to admit I may have overreacted, but here in Ohio if you accuse someone of espousing "rubbish" it is a personal insult meant to elicit a response. I made a passing comment to a question asked that pertained to information I had just gone over with a professional lathe assembler. Not wanting to disassemble and ship out 10' bed that has to weigh 1550 lbs I asked him if could scrape it in place. He was the one that informed me it would be a waste of time handscraping it in and that the scraping or high spotting was a finishing not repair process. He will scrape it in and frost it when it comes back. I have followed the article closely as the lathe I have is almost exactly the same situation as the Monarch in the article. For a guy looking to buy a lathe on Ebay I don't think doing your first handscraping job with the costs and experience involved will be a good idea - just my "opinion" not stated as expert fact. Yesterday was the anniversary of my Fathers death and I took your comments as a direct insult. After further thought throughout the day I realized I let emotion rather than reason guide my response. My Father ran the rotating parts shop at the GE jet engine plant here in Cincinnati for25 years. He bought the lathes and grinders, he set up the manufacturing processes and he also "put the save" on many mismachined parts some of which were worth over a half a million dollars. He bought lathes all over this country as well as Austria, Germany, Switzerland and England. I knew he was a good machinist but never realized how really good he was until at his retirement party everyone that worked with him told me he was the best machinist they ever worked with. His love of the lathe has been passed on to me in my hobbies, not profession. I have 4 South Bends, the Rockford, and a Rockwell wood lathe that I have never turned on. I plan on spending the next 10 years restoring them to their original glory but I need to learn to expertly run them, not spend all my time in the repair process. That is why I choose to send the parts out to experts rather than learn to do it myself. I apologize for sounding spiteful.
Paul
 
I hate to get in to something here but, If you want to tighten up the worn ways by scraping. A South Bend it about the best machine to get your feet wet with. Once the South Bend is diasambled. You have good ways under the head stock, more than likely you have good ways at the tail end. With good material at both ends, The machine has not lost it alignmnet, you just need to scrape the high spots down. It can be done with basic scraping tools and a lot of work. Sure you can send it out for grinding, but if you want a scraping project it can be done. Also, even if you dont do a perfect precision scrape job, you should be better off then when you started. Read the book, practice on some scrap, feel up to it, go for it.
 








 
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