Belt Question

I've inherited a 9" A-64Z from my parent's estate. We have to move it from the basement soon and, obviously, it would be easier to break it up into pieces for moving. The motor is attached with a flat leather belt. From what I've been reading it appears we will have to cut the belt to move the motor separately. Is this correct? Also, any special moving procedures I should undertake?

Thanks

if the belt is connected with an "alligator" splice, you can find a way to pull the center (plastic, rawhide,etc material) pin. Then it is easy to reconnect.

If you are moving the lathe to set up for yourself somewhere else, you probably won't want to damage the belt, then have to buy a new one or re-splice it.

If moving to sell, you will get more for an assembled lathe in running order, than for a pile of assemblies needing to be re-connected with some missing or damaged parts such as the belt.

If the belt is endless, in a pinch, you can loosen some set screws and pull the shaft on the backstand idler. Don't mess with the spindle.

I would find 2 moderately strong friends. Unbolt the lathe and idler from the bench, and take the motor off. Then have 2 of you carry the lathe, while the 3rd tags along with the backstand idler.

smt

I'm not familiar with the A-64Z term. If this
is a rear drive machine (separate motor and
countershaft that bolts to the bench behind
the lathe) then the procedure is to loosen the
setscrews that hold the collars on the counter
shaft, and slide the C-shaft to the side. Then
slip the belt off the throught the resulting
gap.

If it is an underneath drive lathe with a
cabinet, there is no way to remove the headstock
without cutting the belt, and this is what I
typically do. It's not that big a deal for the
purchaser to replace the belt in this case.

If it *is* a rear drive machine I strongly urge
you to follow your instincts and move the machine
separately from the motor drive.

If you remove the leadscrew and gearbox use
strapping tape to secure them to a 2x4 to prevent
the leadscrew from bending. If you don't
remove the carriage then lock it down with
the screw on top of the saddle to keep it from
sliding back and forth.

When I move lathes like this, the largest single
item I have is the bed itself, I strip down that
far. Wood boxes, lots of rags for padding, milk
crates. Tape or othewise secure all fasteners
or loose items to prevent them from getting away
during the move.

Obviously the machine *will* loose value if it
is simply stored for a long time in disassmebled
condition. It might be best to advertise it if
you plan on selling it eventually and have the
buyer remove it.

Jim

Jim

Hi There,

Where are you getting the number you mentioned, "A-64Z" from? It isn't a catalogue number I am familiar with. If this lathe has a quick change gear box, there will be a cataloge number stamped there. If it is "CL-644Z", then it would be 9 Inch, 12 Speed, Horizontal Drive, Lathe with a 3.5 Foot Bed.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

Thanks to all for answering. Sorry for the confusion on the model number, my brother gave it to me. It is a rear drive unit and probably is a CL-644Z, model A. I'll be keeping it even though I don't have much use for it (yet!) It used to be my grandfather's and I'd like to keep it in the family. I do have professional movers scheduled to move it as I also have many woodworking machines to be moved as well (including a very large 1881 cast iron paper cutter). BTW, I'm not sure of the age of the belts. If the machine has been sitting for 20 or 30 years, should I just change the belt? It visually look fine.

Kefira

The belts are typically changed when they
deteriorate so far they cannot be used any
more. If it's holding together, you might as
well just leave it.

Don't cut it, simply shift the countershaft
to the side and slip the belt around it.

If you do move the machine as a unit be careful
as they do tend to want to fall no their face,
which will damage the hand controls on the
carriage and also the tumbler levers on the
quick change gearbox. The gearbox and lead
screw are practically unobtainium.

If it were my machine I would dismantle it to
move it, clean it completely, and apply protectant
to the exposed surfaces and store it in a crate
or other sturdy container.

Jim

I also would go with disassembly of the counter shaft. Leave the belt on the headstock.

When you reassemble, be sure everything is well lubricated before applying power. If you feel confident with it, a complete disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and reassembly would be best. I discovered worn out oilers on my SB 9 when I first got it and I am glad I replaced them before they had time to damage the spindle.

As for belts, I am an advocate of the serpentine belts. I bought one at a local auto parts place for less than $10. I had to disassemble the counter shaft and spindle to install it but it is great and I am told they last many, many years. Probably outlast me.

Paul A.

Interesting comment about the oil cups on those
machines. The start of decline in a lathe like
that happens when the tops get knocked off the
oiler cups. At that point the oilers get
clogged with chips and junk and oil can no longer
get to its destination reliably.

This is a terrible shame because a quick check
in a supply catalog shows those oiler cup are
less than a dollar each, and they're dead easy
to replace. It's amazing that such a cheap
simple fix, if ignored, can cause no *end* of
trouble in scored bearings, worn parts, etc.

An excellent point made by EPA3.

Jim