Cincinnati 2MI power feed problem

Bodgit · Dec 11, 2006

I have a 1947 vintage horizontal 2MI mill that works great except the power feeds. It works fine on rapid traverse but none of the power feeds work at all. I was looking for a place to start fixing this. The vertical rod on the right side of the mill body turns.
I have the manual and don't see an obvious answer.
TIA,
Steve :confused:

johnoder · Dec 11, 2006

I think this is related to the 2M I had though it was older. I had to fix the overload clutch between the right side where the power comes in (on the knee) and the left side where the gear box for the feed is. I.E. - no feeds in any of the three axis if there is a disconnection between power put into knee and the gear box for the feed.

John

abarnsley · Dec 22, 2006

I would look at Manual to check safety clutch engagement clearance (.010) mentioned under To remove safety clutch and shaft. Looks like knee comes off for much more than that........Whatever the problem, its in the knee if the vertical drive shaft spins. Feed Overload clutch might have bit the dust. It looks simple enough........ Yeah Right

Everything looks lighter in there than that D9G Cat tranny I rebuilt 2 years ago (And still running

)

Hadted · Dec 30, 2006

Steve,
Is the vertical shaft is turning, when the feed is engaged? If yes, is the set of bevel gears turning, where the vertical shaft enters the knee? Does your mill have a keyway on the vert. shaft, or a spline? Internal key in gear could be bad. If all that is good, the front of the knee must come off. Sounds scarier than it is... The majority of transmission is a unit that comes straight out. Check these items and post a reply, and maybe it is not too bad to repair via the postings. Good Luck.
Ted

abarnsley · Jan 1, 2007

He has rapids, so it should be a bit more than input bevel gears........

Bodgit · Jan 1, 2007

My vertical shaft is splined and is turning. That's as far as I've gotten so far. I'll look in the manual at the clutch. Is that hard to fix or is it an adjustment? Thanks
Steve

Hadted · Jan 2, 2007

Steve,
That is good that the input shaft is turning... Do you have a cover on the side of the knee where the bevel gears are ? Do you have a cover at the rapid clutch ? You can look in and see if shafts are turning. One other thing to check is... is the feed rate dial, to make sure it is timed correct. i.e. with the spindle running and feed direction engaged, pull the handle out and rotate it slowly. If you feel gears meshing and unmeshing, there nothing wrong, except, the machine needs to timed correctly. Try that and post.
Ted

Bodgit · Jan 3, 2007

Thanks Ted for helping me! There is a clutch cover and the clutch is turning. The gears do mesh and unmesh as the feed speed handle is rotated as you describe. How do I fix this?
Thanks
Steve

Gary E · Jan 3, 2007

If you can feel the feed box gears changing but the table still does not feed, there is a chance that one of two problems have happened.
...1...The feed solenoind on the right side of the knee has not been activated.

To determine if it has, With the machines Spindle running and the table feed lever in feed left or right position, take a 5/32 T Wrench Allen wrench and push in the little pin in the center of the Solenoids cover. If the table feeds, the Sol has not been activated and the problem is elsewhere.

...2.. If the above is pushed in and still no feed, perhaps the feed overload clutch has been dammaged and nothing short of dropping the feed box and removing and replacing the overload clutch will fix it.

Do you have the parts manual?
It tells you exactly how to do that.

Bodgit · Jan 3, 2007

I have the manual from Cincinnati and it is a bit limited in scope it seems. Where is the solenoids cover?
Thanks
Steve

Gary E · Jan 3, 2007

The Sol is on the right side of the knee, and if your standing in the normal operating position, reach down and grab the Rapid Traverse Lever, the Sol is just between your hand and the pivot point of the Rapid lever. It's an alum cover aprox 2 1/2 inches square with a small pin in the center. You want to stick the T wrench in there and push on that pin as I said in the previous post.

Bodgit · Jan 3, 2007

Thanks Gary:
I'll try it when I get home from work tonite.
Steve

Gary E · Jan 3, 2007

Better check the Hydraulic pressure in the knee..
the book tells you how to do that too...

no pressure equals no feeds

Bodgit · Jan 3, 2007

I saw that in the book. I'll get a gauge and try it. I have a transducer somewhere.
Steve

Gary E · Jan 3, 2007

"a transducer" ????

all ya need is a pressure gage..

I think the presure is sposed to be 150 PSI.. so a 300 Lb gage is fine..
I could be wrong on this...it's been sooooo many yrs.

Good luck

Bodgit · Jan 4, 2007

I have a transducer for my automotive scope. I don't have a dial type pressure gauge that is 500lb laying around. The book says 220-220 lbs pressure. May be a day or 2 till I'm home in time to do the tests.
Thanks
Steve

Bodgit · Jan 7, 2007

Well my contactor died for the main motor while testing the hydraulic pressure. I ordered a new one off ebay. I jammed it closed with a screwdriver and the machine is only putting out about 56psi of hydraulic pressure so that's likely the reason the power feeds stopped functioning. I'm going to replace the contactor and then retest it. The manual says there should be 210 psi. There's a procedure to adjust the pressure so I'll try that when it runs again. The machine was made in 1947 and it's the original Size 1 NEMA Allen Bradley B style contactor. There were several similar on ebay so I bought two and hopefully one will fit the old machine.

beckley23 · Jan 7, 2007

Steve,
If the mill has a filter for the hydraulics, you should also change that. I had flush the hydraulics in the knee of my Cincinnati, and I used up a couple of filters. I didn't buy my filters from Cincinnati, as they wanted 48.00 ea, I found them locally for about 10.00.
Harry

Bodgit · Jan 7, 2007

Thanks Harry:
I'll have to look at that. I need to read the manual and figure out where the filter(s) are. I was so irritated the contactor quit, I stopped working on the mill. The sight glass is old and yellowed and I can't tell the level either. Has anyone got a source for the sight glass seals or do you just make your own? On my monarch I got them from monarch and cleaning up the sight glass was easy.
Steve

Bodgit · Jan 7, 2007

I removed the screen filter. Oops...two gallons of hydraulic oil behind it. What a mess. I cleaned out the screen filter with brakleen and gumout and then a compressed air line. The reservoir was full of oil. What kind of oil should I put back in?
Steve

Cincinnati 2MI power feed problem

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