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help, need advice about cincinnati gbox?

dodgy roge

Plastic
Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Location
jersey ,channel isles
hi im currently rebuilding the knee feed gearbox on our cicinnati 207mk universal mill, this was an ebay purchase recently at a bargain price everything seemed to work fine apart from the main table would,nt trav in a left hand direction. ive removed the front bracket (thats what its called in the manual) and i think ive rectified the problem with the gearing , it appears that the ball bearings driving the selector dogs went awoll somehow?, im steadily reassembling the gbox.
Can anyone tell me what would be the best sealing compound to use when i refit the gearbox to the knee as it is a direct metal to metal no gaskit type joint????? in the past i once rebuilt a gambin gearbox using some weird orange locktite flange sealer but this leaked on first attempt, i have blue hylomar but im not so sure this is good enough as it states that this is non setting?? the origional sealant on the machine appears to be a red setting type stuff, does anyone out there know what this is (was) or what would be the best product available today
thanks roger
 
What I think you need is called Anaerobic Sealant. But it is a Red Sealant that is made for machine surfaces & no gasket. It cures with the lack of Oxygen ( when it is between the surfaces). Although it cures firm, but is still the slight bit plaiable (not like RTV though).


Most of the Car Dealerships have this stuff under there own name (I am sure Dodge does).

When you squirt it out it looks like Strawberry Jelly ( kinda a Candy Apple red looking, transparant, but with a lot of color).

It was made for joining transmition cases together that they didnt want RTV or gaskets to be used ( Like when there was shiming that was important to the case clearances that loaded a bearing).


Jess
 
Hylomar would work well for that joint. It is a nondimensional sealant meaning it will fill any leak paths and pores but not make a significant difference in a sized fit. It doesn't really set hard but it seems to firm up a bit. Lube oils don't wash it away either.
 
They are two precision milled surfaces. Gary E. worked there. I worked there. He and I recomend brown permatex from in the tube. It is a very easy joint to seal. Nearly everything will work. The reason I prefer the Permatex is if you ever need to get back in there everything comes apart with ease and laquer thinner will wipe all surfaces clean with little effort. If there are any leaks, you will find you have other issues other than sealant selection. John
 








 
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