the Van Norman is home

Hey guys,

I finally picked up my Van Norman today. So far, everyone has said there is no number 21. Well, I am not sure what else to call it. Here are some pics.







I think this might be what is called a Duplex. But, I am not sure, anyone have any info?


thanks,
Mark
Berkshire Transmissions
North Adams, Massachusetts

Hmm, it doesn't look like the pics came through.
here are the links:

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g39/FirstEliminator/?action=view&current=frontright.jpg

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g39/FirstEliminator/?action=view&current=number21.jpg

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g39/FirstEliminator/?action=view&current=3quarterview.jpg


Mark

The "1" in the patent number is different than the "l" in "2l" - like they meant for it to be two - ell

John

o-k, a 2-L. Where on the scale of Van Norman's does a 2-L place? Is it good? Bad? O-K? Could it be Van Norman's greatest sought-after genuine golden bona-fide blue ribbon mill? Or, something to join it's siblings in the scrap heap?

Mark
Berkshire Transmissions
North Adams, Massachusetts

AH, a man after my own heart. Old iron AND old Fords! I've got 3 - 70's fords.
Looks like 21 to me, John.

Good Luck with the new toy.

Charlie

Yeah, Ford trucks, Mercury cars. Old American Iron. Locke Power Reel Mowers, Husqvarna dirtbikes, Kirby vacuums, Lionel trains, Mack trucks and lots of tools.

Maybe it is 2I? I like me, myself and V-N 2I?

here are some more pics of the Van Norman:

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g39/FirstEliminator/?action=view&current=back.jpg

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g39/FirstEliminator/?action=view&current=front.jpg

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g39/FirstEliminator/?action=view&current=rightsideclose.jpg

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g39/FirstEliminator/?action=view&current=topleft.jpg

Mark
Berkshire Transmissions

What a great looking machine. Made back in the days when it was understood that foundry pattern work was a one-time thing, (within reason) and casting iron a many-times thing. Good strong design that didn't require any art deco frills to facinate.

The designer understood that a ram could be made very strong/ridgid by giving it a high arc but not wasting iron at the back. A good thing when you're going to integrate the over arm mount on it.

Mark, that Van Norman needs to sit out, so that folks can walk around back and admire that convoluted belt/pulley guard, maybe with arrows on little stands, pointing to the back? .

All that and eminently versatile, great score!

Bob

I see that you have the feed selector on the right/backhand side of the machine with the driveshaft angling down into the saddle. I "think" the newer designs have a revolving two-handle selector for the quick-change feeds on the front of the saddle. Don't know for sure.

What I do know, however, is that you have a great machine that is very capable of removing large amounts of metal in a short time. We have a medium size VN (size 22U) that is pretty much my pop's favorite mill to use. It's extremely stout, rigid, solid, etc... and will push a flycutter or boring bar without a shudder. You'll find these lopsided cutting operations are very easy on this machine as opposed to a standard Bridgy or similar tool whose table and head will shake all over the place.

Keep us posted once you have her hooked up and making chips.

I'll tell ya, a forklift was nice in loading the big VN on my trailer. However, no forklift to unload at my shop. I backed the trailer in my shop and used the 2 post car lift. Strapped up the VN to the lift arms and picked it up off the trailer. Then drove the trailer out from underneath the mill. That was the easy part. It took about another 2 hours to move the mill about 10 feet into position. I had to borrow some pipe to rool the mill on. However, I wasn't thinking ahead too well as I only borrowed two pieces of pipe. Three pieces would have been enough and four pieces would have been nice. Good thing I have some big pry bars. I ended up setting the mill on pieces of 2x4 around the perimeter of the base.

It looks like this machine has no quill at all. Not just no power quill, but no quill at all. Do you think it would be worth trying to adapt something like that model 26 head that is on ebay to this machine to have a manual quill? Or, should I not bother?

I haven't gotten a phase adaptor yet, so I don't really even know if this machine runs at all. But, everything looks pretty good. I have been cleaning it up...really just wiping it down with WD-40 soaked rags and it comes out pretty nice. Places on the table and and other bare metal parts that I thought were rusted seem to just clean right up. Rust colored dust I guess. I am pretty busy at work, so I don't have much time in getting this thing wiried up and running. Probably within the next couple weeks.

As the machine sits in the shop, you can see it from all sides. In fact, when I sit at my desk, All I can see is the big belt cover.

This machine has a bunch of little caps to put oil in for the bearings/bushings. I filled them using 75/140 synthetic gear oil. What is the recommended lubricant for these points?

The next time I bring the camera into work, I will get some pics of the mill in the shop.
thanks,
Mark
Berkshire Transmissions
North Adams, Massachusetts

It looks like this machine has no quill at all. Not just no power quill, but no quill at all.

Click to expand...

Absolutely true! That's what separates MILLS (like VN/KT/Cincy/etc.) from mills (like Bridgeport/Wells/Acer/etc.). A quill is only a thin piece of metal, relative to the machine, that's designed to push a drill bit downward and NOT designed to take a lateral force due to milling. Sure you can mill with a quill system but you just have to go slower and be more careful on the setup. On your VN, just feed the table up to feed down into your workpiece. You'll find that once you begin to use your 'quill-less' mill, you may not go back to a quill.

Oh, that is, unless you're one of those that believe a mill should also replace a drill press then all bets are off.

You don't need a quill for drilling, thats what the knee crank is for! About all you can't do is drill at an angle, and how often do you really do that?

Heck J, stick the workpiece on an angle block and angle drill away with the table.

Uncommon angles, use a sine plate.

Got a lot of them? set the vertical head on the appropriate angle, mill a piece of scrap, leaving a ledge.

Radial holes like on the small Morse taper held turrets, use a universal dividing head or even an indexer on the angle block.

Bob

My bad, as most capably pointed out by Bob, you can drill any kind of hole you want with the proper work holding. Your imagination is the only limitation as usual.