What's new
What's new

Brake Controlled Truing Wheels

agrip

Cast Iron
Joined
Aug 17, 2005
Location
Atlanta Georgia USA
Would some of you wise grits please please inform me of the care and feeding of such devices?

The question covers any operation where you may have run into any kind of gotcha. Any and all whys and what-fors.

Starting any truing operation. From both wheels at zero rpm?
Mounting wheels on the brake controlled arbor? Truing the truing wheel so to speak?
Setting the brake tension?
Choosing truing wheel material? Grit size? Bond characteristics?

The usage in mind is a Cinci #2 T and C machine, running diamond and CBN straight and cup wheels on Sopko adapters.

Agrip, (whose hands are slippery at this point, but still has ten complete finger nails.)
 
Setting the brake tension?

I usually take the brake springs out of the device. This helps to prevent the wheel over speeding, a common complaint. It's been a while since I used one so it's possible this is not applicable to a later model.

Gene
 
Choosing truing wheel material? Grit size? Bond characteristics?

For maximum efficiency the truing wheel grit size depends on the grit size of the wheel to be trued. Usually, however, shops have only one or maybe two all purpose wheels. A 37Cxxxx is commonly used for diamond wheels.

Gene
 
Starting any truing operation. From both wheels at zero rpm?
I color my wheel face with a felt marker before dressing. This makes it easier to tell if it's cleaned up when dressing.
My dresser is mounted in a post which puts it on the horizontal center line of the wheel. I mount my dresser at a slight angle to the travel (twisted on the table). That way I know which part of the dressing wheel will hit first.
Bring the dresser up to the wheel while spinning the dressing wheel by hand with the spindle off. Touch off on the wheel and back out a few thou.
Turn on spindle, start oscillating the dresser back and forth with one hand, about one second for a back and forth pass. Now reach up and spin the dressing wheel with the other hand. Now before it coasts to a stop infeed till the dresser touches the wheel.
This is the hard part, getting the thing started. Do not spin the dressing wheel by hand if it is in contact with the diamond wheel. Takes a bit of getting used to.
Once you have contacted the wheel oscillate the dresser fully off both sides of the wheel while infeeding slowly. If you infeed too slowly the dresser will slow down or stop. If you infeed too fast it will scream at you. If you feed too hard just make a few swipes with no infeed till it calms down.
Once you have cleaned up the surface stop infeeding and continue to oscillate the dresser til it stops spinning. Back off the wheel and turn everything off.

Mounting wheels on the brake controlled arbor? Truing the truing wheel so to speak?
Just slap them on, .080 runout is fine. Once the start hitting they'll get trued up by the diamond wheel.

Setting the brake tension?
The brake springs are made to be adjusted to suit your spindle RPM and dressing wheel size. For general use I set mine at 1 turn out from fully tight.

Choosing truing wheel material? Grit size? Bond characteristics?
I use 2 different dressing wheels One is coarse and hard black one (72C80-J-VX) which I use on 120 to 200 grit wheels or when I am roughing and angle on a wheel. The other is a green wheel, much finer and softer (GC180-K8-V). I use this on 400 to 1200 grit wheels and for finishing angles where I need a ultra-sharp corner.

Bob
 
CarbideBob,

Thanks for posting the detailed procedure. I just made one of these dressers from scratch but had never used one before. Luckily for me, based on your description, I was using it correctly.
Now I have question with a twist. I stood my dresser up (on end) on my magnet and used it to dress the face of my cup wheel, raising the wheel up and down. Did I out smart myself or is that how it's done? It seemed to work well. -Mike
 
CarbideBob,

Thanks for posting the detailed procedure. I just made one of these dressers from scratch but had never used one before. Luckily for me, based on your description, I was using it correctly.
Now I have question with a twist. I stood my dresser up (on end) on my magnet and used it to dress the face of my cup wheel, raising the wheel up and down. Did I out smart myself or is that how it's done? It seemed to work well. -Mike

Mike,
I saw the pictures of your dresser. Nice work!! Maybe you should think about making these for sale.
Yes, you can certainty use the up/down to dress but I prefer to use the X-axis for dressing as it moves faster (I dress a lot of wheels in a day). We have an old LeBlond tool and cutter grinder that we use just for wheel dressing. We twist the dresser so the first contact is on the outside edge of the dressing wheel (our used dressing wheels end up cone shaped). I'll try to post some pics later.
Bob
 
Thanks for replies. I appreciate the time.

CB Please do post pix.

The over speed comments seem to describe a gotcha.

I had been assuming the truing wheel might be intended to run at somewhat less sfpm than the grinding wheel, and while doing this, is intended to put a rolling pressure on the grinding wheel to disturb the GW bond, and then drag the loosened grit away?

This could describe a less violent collision between grit peaks, allowing more time to get at the grit bonds.

Is there something I am missing?

Ag
 
I had been assuming the truing wheel might be intended to run at somewhat less sfpm than the grinding wheel, and while doing this, is intended to put a rolling pressure on the grinding wheel to disturb the GW bond, and then drag the loosened grit away?
It's not rolling pressure that does it. A typical resin bond is much too hard to dress with just pressure. If the bakes in your dresser don't engage you won't be able to take anything off the wheel. This happens when the brakes get dirty and bind up. There are diamond wheels designed to be crush dressed with diamond form rolls but they are very soft special bonds and need continuous redressing.
Basically a grinding action takes place between the two wheels. The best dress is when a "tail" or mound of bond is left behind each exposed diamond. Sort of looks like a teardrop with the diamond grain exposed at the front of the teardrop with supporting bond behind it. Brake controlled devices do the best job of providing this open dress structure. But they aren't the only way to dress a diamond wheel. Normal bake controlled dressers run at 1000-1500 SFM.

As promised here's some pics.

dresslebond2.jpg


My Leblond #2 cutter grinder that we use for wheel dressing for our SG wheels. This machine is a little different in that the table rotates on the base. Most machines rotate the grinding head to get different angles. Note the mandatory accessory on the floor on the left. This is a very dusty operation. Here the machine is set up for dressing a 45 deg. chipbreaker wheel with a motorized dresser.



lebondpics.jpg


Left- setup to dress 45 deg angle on wheel with motorized dresser. This is a Bodine 660 RPM gearmotor with a custom shaft extension on the end. We use this dresser on wheels that are too hard to dress with the bake dresser. ( ultra fine 1000 to 1800 grit wheels)
Center - Table at zero degree with brake controlled dresser set up to dress an OD wheel. This dressing wheel is just about used up. I dress with the outside of the wheel then flip the dressing wheel over and use up the other side. Here I am using the center high point that is left.
Right - Table at 90 degrees with new dressing wheel about to dress a face wheel.


dressagas.jpg


Left - CNC 4 axis dressing it's own wheel. Table speed = 80 IPM, Infeed = .0006 per pass.
Center - Newer style Norton dresser on an Agathon 250-PA IC grinder. This type of dresser has a knob on the back that you spin by hand. This keeps your fingers away from the grinding wheel.
Right - An Agathon motor started brake controlled dresser on a 250-FS T-land grinder. This dresser rotates via an electric motor at low speed so you don't have to start it by hand. Once the diamond wheel touches a one way clutch allows the dresser to spin faster and the brakes take over.


Now a trip in the way-back machine to the early 70's and my first dresser. I think I was 15 when I built this.

dresscheap.jpg


The ultimate low-buck diamond wheel dresser. One old gearmotor found in Dad's garage, cost $0.00. One steel plate found next to local RR tracks, cost $0.00. Two shaft collars from local hardware, cost about $5.00.
Yes, it works. Not as fast as a Norton dresser and not quite as open of a dress but much cheaper.
Just set it on the chuck with the rotation the same direction as the grinding wheel is pushing it, plug it in, and bring your wheel down till it touches. Feed in/out while slowly downfeeding.

Bob
 
Last edited:
Bob, Thanks for posting the pics. Now I get what you meant about grinding across the face of a cup wheel. I was trying to keep the wheel cylindrical when I could've been making it a 45. -Mike
 








 
Back
Top