OT:Need help figuring angle for woodworking cut

This has been my weekend project for about 9 months and its coming into full gestation. I will be building up a crown for the top of this and only want to do this once.

From this measurement it is 104 degrees. Will my cut simply be 52 degrees for each piece,or? This will not be a compound cut as the molding will fit tight to the face.




Its taken me 9 months to get this far, and with all the final sanding and finishing I don't expect this to be done before September.





Thanks for the help!

Nice!!!

I can see the concern with the radius across the front, but I believe that would still be correct. The tricky part is getting the length right the first time.

Lay you molding wher it will be tacked, and scribe a mark where the short end of the miter cut will be.

Best of luck, and again...Nice Work!!!


(you may want to get that front piece on first, then check the angle one more time to be sure before cutting the side pieces)

Yep, that's it. However, do as mentioned, mark the inside of the cuts for the front piece first. Then, cut the mating miter on the side piece before cutting to length.

It doesn't matter if the cut is 53/51, as long as the joint fits tight. Just don't get that front piece too short.

Tools

Thanks, guys. There will be a trial piece of molding made that I can cut first. Once I move to the final cherry piece, there will be only on shot.

It will be awhile before I get the molding made up though. Thanks for the help.

Luke

Do keep in mind that your miter gauge will read 90 degrees as zero. In most cases they read opposite of the protractor. Because of that rather than setting the saw at 52 degrees you want to set it at 90-52= 38 degrees.

Luke said:

Thanks, guys. There will be a trial piece of molding made that I can cut first. Once I move to the final cherry piece, there will be only on shot.

It will be awhile before I get the molding made up though. Thanks for the help.

Luke

Click to expand...

I usually use a thin flexible piece of wood and a sharp pencil to make a pattern, once the wood is in place you can straightedge from the sides to get the angle, use tube clamps and blocks or a really steady helper, when you have the pattern cut you will have both length and angle.

Liop miter trimmers

I meant Lion

For fine trim work like that, I use a Lion miter trimmer (for those who don't know it, picture something between a hand saw miter box, a French revolution guillotine, and a lever driven rack gear). With sharp blades, you can cut a shaving off the end of trim so thin you can read through it (literally), and it is study enough to trim off 1/8 inch from 1x6 white oak.

They have been made for over 100 years, and unfortunately I have heard that the real ones are now out of production. There are of course cheap knock offs available, but they aren't as rigid. Regular price for one on eBay is about $200 to $250. Larger versions are available for shops.

I have been installing new trim throughout my house, and I can saw cut everything 1/8 over outside in one shot, and then use the miter trimmer inside to make final cuts (no noise or sawdust inside) as I install the trim. Wonderful tool. Probably the most dangerous one I own as well.

FWIW