online source for specialty screws for woodworking machines?

I am trying to put an old jointer I've cleaned up to some use. The wrench flats of a couple of its blade set screws had been rounded over and the screws eventually had to be cut out so the blades could be replaced. Is there an online supplier of these screws? (1/4" Ø, 28TPI, 3/16" length, low-profile ~1/8" thick hex-head with 5/16" wrench flats) The manufacturer is no longer in business. Sites like McMaster and Fastenal don't stock them. Thanks

McMaster has some 1/2 28 in the high strength section. You will most likely need to cut them down in length and thin the head. Check the hole depth before cutting them down. 3/16 seems like a very shallow depth for a gib jack screw. Cut them as accuratly as possible to keep the weights all the same.

You can try Leonard Jed in Baltimore, but they still don't seem to have a website. Or Jamestown fasteners. But most likely you will have to make your own. As far as I have seen, most old planer and jointer gibscrews were either proprietary, or slightly modded stock screws.

Corroded gibs, rusty, seized, buggered up screws:



Here's my set up for making them. Start with at least grade 5, preferably grade 8; so the heads are a little more durable in use. Grade 8 will most likely require carbide tools. If you can't get exact length screws, buy them with excess to cut off so they hold well in a collet against an internal stop.



I'm using a swing tool on the turret to thin the head and add the pip. It could instead be a compound on the lever cross slide, or a compound on the bed. For this use, the swing tool was fast and adequate. There is also a tool in the front position tool block to under cut the head (as per OEM) so the screw will screw completely into the gib and allow a slightly thicker head. (actually, I think I made the screw complete with pip and faced, undercut shoulder in this set up, then faced the pip itself in a second operation with a compound cross slide.) Either way, it is fast to make a couple dozens screws this way.



Refacing the gibs (top done first to reference face, finish cut on face shown)



Gibs after re-grinding & balancing, with new screws, and new jacks





smt

What you are asking for (if no typos) sound like they can be "carved" out of existing fully threaded bolts by anyone with a mill and a dividing head.

(1/4" Ø, 28TPI, 3/16" length, low-profile ~1/8" thick hex-head with 5/16" wrench flats)

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1/4-28 thread is quite common.
3/16" long ? perhaps the threaded section?
~1/8" thick hex-head with 5/16" wrench flats shouldn't be a problem, just mill down the head that's on it.

You could start with these:
Premium Domestic Hex Bolt Cap Screw Grade 8 1 4 28x1 2 Yel Zinc PL PK 3300 | eBay

Yes, you don't need 3300 pcss, and you don't want to spend $200, and you aren't sure about "fully threaded" but the description says:

Fully Threaded

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And also says:

If the fastener item you are looking for is not listed, please contact us, and we will source it for you.

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Perhaps they will pull a hundred out of the box, and sell you a hundred?

My bad, ignored the milling step! But as SW notes, a relatively easy job with a spacer, dividing head or similar. More time consuming than the lathe work. I've done that too.

That size screw (bolt) as the raw material should be available from jobbers "anywhere" for about $5.00 - $10/box of 100.

I don't know the size or style of your cutterhead. Don't take my advice if you are not comfortable redesigning systems like that... But if it were necessary to make an entire set of bolts (plus some spares )I might consider milling 4 flats instead of 6 if a wrench will still work to get it moving in any position. Many old heads did use square heads. They last longer without rounding over when the dia is small. One thing to consider, though, is the small dia 6 sides might be a "safety" valve so the operator can't over-tighten. Most gib screws I've seen had some sort of pip or domed head. YMMV

It is faintly possible that square head 1/4" setscrews could still be sourced, say from Leonard Jed. Sadly, 28 pitch is less likely than 20, though.

smt

Thank you for these great answers.

I regret to say I have no knowledge of machining and so I don't own any machining tools. My grandfather was a machinist and lived to the age of 100 but in all those years I never asked him to teach me about the subject because my interest in the old machines did not awake until after he had passed on.

It is faintly possible that square head 1/4" setscrews could still be sourced,

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An old school (perhaps German?) machinist would be threatening to toss any or all of us out of the shop; a careful person with a file could most likely create what was needed, though Grade 5 might be easier than Grade 8.

Hint: files are closer to hacksaw blades than sandpaper, please lift on the back stroke.

Determine the wrench you plan to use, keep it handy while filing, and if you can clamp the screw parallel to the table top, just keep the file parallel to the table top.

Think twice, avoid scrap.


Good Luck,
Steve

Just to clarify one of my suggestions: I doubt many original gib screws were even as good as grade 5. Some seem like mere leaded steel (12L14). But using grade 5 or better makes them last longer before the wrench flats get mangled.

What brand is the jointer? "Old" to me means pre 1940's and new is anything after 1960's. But to a younger person, anything before 1980 is impossibly ancient!

smt

Have you tried asking on the OWWM site? Old Woodworking Machines • View forum - Old Woodworking Machines

This has to be a common problem for woodworkers restoring old machines, I'm sure there is information there. Maybe even someone who can make them for you at a reasonable cost.

Please give some details about your machine.

If you don't have any metalworking experience, I don't think this is the best project to start with. You don't want to be cringing and ducking every time you start up the jointer, hoping those knives don't fly out. I've seen it happen, in was a school situation where the incompetent shop tech failed to note the knives had been sharpened too many times and were just too narrow. What a noise it made!!! Luckily no one was hurt, but we still couldn't get the jerk fired!

These screws sound like the ones for my Delta 37-315 jointer. Same threads and head.
I looked for these from other sources than Delta and didn't find any. I ended up buying them from Delta at $2.30 each. It was expensive, but cheaper than having them made.
I think Powermatic used the same thread on their jointer gib screws, so you might check the parts list of a Powermatic jointer and see if they are the same, and if they are available.
Good luck with your search!
Rick W

The blasted Delta screws were always getting rounded over. If I wanted any,I'd make them from 01 drill rod,harden,and draw to a purple color(slightly harder than a spring temper.)