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Craftsman/Atlas stuck chuck oops!

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manny

Plastic
Joined
Jun 25, 2001
Location
Laguna Nig;uel, Ca, USA
Hello again,
New to the forum. Years ago dabbled in automechanics and worked at a tool and dye shop as a gopher and caught the "metal bug."
No longer in the field but bought an Atlas lathe to continue learning. Mistakenly set-up a bar with a 4 jaw chuck and a live center at the tailstock thinking I would gain additional experience setting up the 4 jaw for accuracy as well as get the feel for turning down bar stock. Aggressively overfed the tool bit and found the bar climbing over the tool post before I could power down the lathe. Now the chuck is jammed onto the lathe spinldle hub. Tried a prybar against the bullgear and another bar in the chuck jaws for leverage but ended up stripping a couple of teeth off the bullgear. Have replaced bullgear since with part from Clausing Service Center but unable to remove chuck therefore severely limiting my self-lessons on the lathe. In retrspect, it is apparent that I have made some poor decisions in the situation I have just described, very careless. Any suggestion on how to remove the chuck threaded onto the spindle? Much appreciate the suggestions, thanks.
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Why not try a sharp smack to a block of wood held next to the side of one of the chuck jaws. Don't have to be in gear thereby saving some gear teeth, although if your high speed is belt driven you could put it in gear to help with resistance.mark
 
The first thing I would do is to chuck up a fair sized chunk of hex. Put in lowest speed open belt, not back gear, and get out big Mac.

Mac impact wrench that is. If this doen't work you got problems.

A CP or copy might work, I like Mac or Ingersol air tools.
 
You could always dismantle the chuck as far as it goes and turn the rest of, you lose the chuck but get the lathe back.

Thomas.
 
For you Atlas guys out there.. Contact Erickson Machinery Tooling in Story City Iowa. I am told that they are making NEW Atlas parts. From what I have seen, they are NOT potmetal. They look good.


[This message has been edited by Lars (edited 10-22-2001).]
 
1...put wood block on rear way ,run lathe in reverse & bang into block repetetively....2...as 1/2 nut said ,if no impact setup put large monkey/crescent/stilson on & rap repetetively(no back gear& 2-3ft cheater).hundreds of times ..u now have an impact wrench..3.....hind sight! put stripped gear back on & do above but more forcefully! by time u rap all teeth off ,it should be loose....4....put a morse taper in freezer, stick it in spindle & put the torch to chuck & do 2or 3( 2 people!)5....take chuck off back plate , turn groove 1/64 or less in front of back of register ( dont get into spindle ...pressure will relax & try above steps....6... put a pieceof 2 or so inch bar 2/-3feet long, crossways of jaws & repetetively rap on it....7.turn the d---- thing off ...not so easily done w/ out scaring up spindel!@!!8 ......sell it!
best wishes
docn8as
ps have chuck tight a/ gears if useing back gear ,..the impact momentum of gear slamming into gear is the "stripper"
 
Originally posted by Lars:
For you Atlas guys out there.. Contact Erickson Machinery Tooling in Story City Iowa. I am told that they are making NEW Atlas parts. From what I have seen, they are NOT potmetal. They look good.

Are they at www.ericksonmachine.com ?

If so, I couldn't find any mention of Atlas parts on the web site but do notice that they are part of the 600 Group - aren't they the same ones that own Clausing?


[This message has been edited by Lars (edited 10-22-2001).]
 
You have to decide whether the lathe or the chuck is worth more. If the chuck is worth more, cut the spindle off and work on cleaning the plug out of the chuck and buy a new lathe to put it on. ( just being funny) ..
eek.gif
 
Apply some "KROIL" penetrating oil to the frozen join, let set 24 hours and then apply the armstrong tactics. Kroil will loosen things up that nothing else will. It is made in Nashville and they have a web site. Search using mamma.com, dogpile, and/or google.

s/Stan
 
Aerokroil is some of the best oil I have ever used. As stated, if anything will loosen stuck parts it will. It will creep into openings of just millionths of an inch.
I'm not saying this is the best way to loosen a stuck chuck but at this point it would seem worth a try.

Good luck
 
Put the machine in back gear and lock the spindle so it won't turn. Put a long (3 feet or more) bar into the chuck and orient it horizontally. Hang a heavy (!!) weight on the end of the bar to apply a constant force. Apply Kroil, etc., to the spindle/chuck joint and wait. Let it sit with the torque on the joint for at least a week; more if you are not in a rush. Make sure there is something under the heavy weight to restrain it when the joint lets go.
 
Manny,
You might try some PB B'laster.Heat the back of your chuck where it threads on to the spindle evenly as quickly as possible with a propane torch by rotating it until it is hot,but not so hot that you can't touch it.Then spray the PB B'laster on the joint of the threads inside the back of the chuck while rotating.My idea is that the spindle will shrink enough for the PB B'laster to move into the threads and the heat may also soften up any old oil that is acting like glue in the threads.Then spray some on the thread joint on the outside.

Chuck up a bar that won't slip in the jaws,and see if it will come loose.

I used a piece of scrap 1"x1"x8" angle iron and a 2' pipe wrench on my Southbend chuck and it finally came undone.I believe it hadn't been taken off in 50 years...no joke.

LINK: http://www.pbblaster.com/


Good Luck!!!
rolleyes.gif
Barry
 
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