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6F Power Feed manual

Nothing particular at this point. I will soon be installing a 6F feeder on my bridgeport and am assuming the worst :). Also - at some point I would lke to disassemble and clean up the inside as well as repaint the outside.

Rick
 
No manual that I know of. There are some schematics out there if you look.

First of all, you have to know if you have a model A, B, or C. Also, why are you putting it on BEFORE you take it apart, inspect, and clean? If you're worried about putting it back together. take plenty of pictures. I have to do that more and more.
JR
 
JR - is here an easy way to determine A, B or C model? Regarding taking it apart - usually my first step is to dismantle, clean, repaint,etc but lots of folks always question why fix something that isn't broken so this time I thought I'd do something different. Your post does have me thinking about the "right" sequence of events and I may take it apart first. A manual or guideline relating to general maintenance, lubrication, etc would be nice to have.

Rick
 
If you have the main Bridgeport manual the exploded diagrams make dis-assembly and re-assembly pretty much a matter of common sense. I would take agood look at the condition of the bearing bush for the control lever and change the springs as a matter of course. The lever should work with a nice spring assisted snap. If you use the automatic stops things should snap over centre and pull the stop collars away from the stop. With old tired springs needs to be pushed back over most, or even all the way by the stop. Those little springs are much stronger than you think but they are, by design, a bit overstressed and loose tension over the years. I thought mine were plenty good enough after testing post strip down but in practice they are very so-so. Not quite bad enough from me to have to tear in but things aren't s pleasant to use as one would hope.

I'd also change the microswitches for new high quality ones. Simple V3 type so not expensive. Oil does get in over the
the years. Even sealed ones.

Once its back together put the right amount of the right oil in. Job done.

Clive
 
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Thanks Clive - good info.

It seems the first thing I need to do is understand what I have. Is there an easy way to identify the version of a 6F power feed? My understanding from the above is that there is an A, B and C version. How do you tell the difference?

Thanks
Rick
 
So I've been spending a lot of internet time trying to find some information about these power feeders. I stumbled across H&W machine repair which offered parts for Bridgeport power feeders and emailed them regarding the model differences. I got a reply from Jon Bass who was extremely helpful. He confirmed he has never seen a manual but that they did have some schematics on their web site.

He also indicated that a series A was the model with a separate control box that attached to the side of the Bridgeport - mine has the control box integrated with the motor/drive shaft housing so I now know it is a B or C.

He said the B and C differences were a little harder to distinguish but did say one of the major differences was in the forward/reverse switches - I need to do a little disassembly to see those switches.

I found the schematics he pointed me to and printed them off for comparison, There are a few differences in the forward/reverse switches and switch mounting plates. I also found some differences in the handle assembly for table movement - that may be easier to take apart and see what I have. Other than that a 6F B and C look identical. Given the lack of information - my hope is to document this process for others who may want to go down this path.

I want to repeat my thanks to Jon Bass and H&W machine repair ( 38-154 - Limit Switch) for his help and his offer to get involved in any other questions I may have as I proceed.

Rick
 
I thought I'd post some pictures of the actual power feeder









Some progress to date - I did end up getting a lead screw from an older gear box power feed that the previous owner machined for me - I just need to get a woodruff key slot cut into it.

I also have narrowed the identity down to a 6F-B I think. This is based on the micro switches and handle parts which seem to be unique to the A and B and I'm sure its not an A, I sent this info to Jon for verification





I also got some disassembly done - removed the electronics box and cover and am close to removing the electronics from the box. Right now I'm stuck on getting the motor off - I have removed the 4 cap screws but it doesn't want to seem to budge., I'm not sure if there are some additional internal fasteners or not. The interior seems pretty clean - I did remove the gear shift accuating arm but haven't gotten much further with that



On a sadder note - when I was playing around with it a few weeks ago I dropped it and broke the control lever. When I was disassembling I noticed the recess in the cover for the control shaft detent pin was also broke. fortunately I was able to find a cover from another member (and a number of more minor parts I needed) but the control lever is still being sought.





I would appreciate any thoughts on motor removal you may have

Thanks
Rick
 
OK - motor is off. I was making more out of it than I needed to. This feeder has apparently been apart before - there was lots of red gasket material that was making the motor stick - a sharp utility knife solved that problem.

Now on to figuring out how the drive shaft comes out of the casting. I think the shaft has to slide out of the various gears/bearings/drive coupling/etc but more looking is required.

Rick
 
No the handle doesn't rub against the dial or knurled lock ring. You can barely see in one of the pictures above that there is a threaded shaft that the dial goes over and the lock ring threads onto. The end of that threaded shaft has two notches and the detent pin in the handle fits in the notches to manually turn the lead screw. I do believe that the bronze bushing in the handle is not correct and I am missing a washer and spring that goes between the handle and shaft. In the parts list this is referred to as a "safety handle" - not sure hoew it works yet but I am assuming the spring keeps the handle disengaged when the power feeder is running so that the handle doesn't turn with the lead screw. I'll get some better pictures of that area.

Rick
 
Rick. I'm referring to the dial with the graduations on it. When you tighten the Kurl lock ring does it push on the dial so that the dial rubs against the powder feed body?


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OK _ I gotcha now. No the dial does not rub the body of the power feed casting. There is a shoulder on the output shaft that a flange on the backside of the dial seats against. The lock ring then pushes the dial against the output shaft shoulder and locks it in place. Let me know if that isn't clear and I can get a good picture of it.

Rick

Rick. I'm referring to the dial with the graduations on it. When you tighten the Kurl lock ring does it push on the dial so that the dial rubs against the powder feed body?


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If you don't mind please a picture would be great. I think mine may have been reassemble wrong at some part


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Here's a few pictures of the handle parts - feel free to let me know if these don't answer your question.

First is the inside of the dial showing the flange (around the shaft hole) that the dial rides on



The next two are the threaded piece that lock ring threads on to - you will see a small shoulder just above the bearing retainer ring





finally the dial itself installed - notice the small gap between the baclk of the dial and the casting body



hopefully that will help?

Now if I could just figure out the sequence to disassemble the drive shaft from the casting.

Rick
 
Thanks Rick, mine looks the same and nothing sticks out as wrong. Would you mind measuring the depth of the indicator dial from the back face to where the should butts up to threaded piece. Then from the body of the power feed to the shoulder of the thread piece (picture 1 and 2)? Trying to tell if it's my threaded piece or dial that is bad.
 
The inner flange surface (the one that contacts the shoulder) is recessed from the outer flange. Looks like about .138". From the top of the shoulder to the top of the bearing retainer (part with 3 holes for mounting to the casting) is.103". From the top of the shoulder to the machined surface of the casting (after removing the bearing retainer) is .302".

Let me know of there is anything else you might need.

Rick
 
So I'm stuck with removing the internal mechanical stuff from the power feed - Anybody ever do this that can offer some guidance? It seems the drive shaft has to slide through the various components and when re-assembling it basically has to be done inside the casting. My problem is there are several retaining rings (C rings I would call them) that I'm not sure how to get off while the shaft is inside the casting and if I could get them off I'm not sure how I would get them back on. Here's apicture of where I am at (minus the clutch rod in the center of the picture)



and here's a schematic of the parts

6F-A&B Power Feed Handle Assembly

Thanks for any thoughts you may have in terms of disassembling the drive shaft.

Rick
 
Thanks for the info.

Taking it apart take the vertical shaft in your pictures out and drive the brass bushing down (if referring to your picture you would drive it up. Then you would pull the thread piece that we were talking about earlier. Once that is out ti gives you access to remove springs, snap rings. The big gear with the allen screw will stay on the shaft. Move to the safe to the left (referring to your picture again) so the right end can be tiled out. This is basically how Jonathan told me how to do it.
 








 
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