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Almost free Bridgeport

Fnord5

Plastic
Joined
Aug 17, 2018
$500
No tooling, mitutoyu DRO.
Bringing it home tomorrow.

I know next to nothing about machining, basically YouTube videos and a little from other forums.

I expect to hang out here more and more as I get it running.
Any info/links to info/manuals would be appreciated... I promise I won't just disappear.

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I don't think you can wrong for the price. You will have great learning experience with it.
 
Nice score, looks like a nice layer of dusty grit on it, wipe it clean and oil before you move the table or knee


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Looks like a couple collets and a drill chuck in the plywood rack, and the drawbar is there, that’s a good start


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Also that that’s a swivel vice base on the cart right next to it, the seller is keeping the vice?


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Nice.

For some fun information, if you move the saddle all the way back and push the chip guard out of the way, you can find the machine's serial number stamped on the front top of the knee. Look here and you can find the manufacturing date: Northeast Precision Machinery | Bridgeport Milling Machine "J" Head Serial Numbers

If you are unfamiliar with the Bridgeport and are planning on rebuilding it, get this book:
A Guide to Renovating the Bridgeport Series 1 "J" Head Milling Machine: ILION Industrial Services LLC: 9781482368: Amazon.com: Books

Here are some good operation guides online:
http://www.truetex.com/bridgeport-manual.pdf
Bridgeport Series 1 Milling Machine Full Manual – Blue Chip Machine Shop

Keep in mind that the quill on the J heads and the 2J heads are basically identical.

If you need parts, this is my first place to go: H&W Machine Repair & Rebuilding - Parts and Service for the Metalworking Industry
 
Nice.

For some fun information, if you move the saddle all the way back and push the chip guard out of the way, you can find the machine's serial number stamped on the front top of the knee. Look here and you can find the manufacturing date: Northeast Precision Machinery | Bridgeport Milling Machine "J" Head Serial Numbers

If you are unfamiliar with the Bridgeport and are planning on rebuilding it, get this book:
A Guide to Renovating the Bridgeport Series 1 "J" Head Milling Machine: ILION Industrial Services LLC: 9781482368: Amazon.com: Books

Here are some good operation guides online:
http://www.truetex.com/bridgeport-manual.pdf
Bridgeport Series 1 Milling Machine Full Manual – Blue Chip Machine Shop

Keep in mind that the quill on the J heads and the 2J heads are basically identical.

If you need parts, this is my first place to go: H&W Machine Repair & Rebuilding - Parts and Service for the Metalworking Industry

Excellent. Thank you!

Now I just need to figure out what VFD /rotary phase converter I need to go with.
 
@solarbell thanks for the plug!

What all are you going to be doing as far as cleaning? Are you thinking more cosmetic stuff?

Jon
H&W Machine Repair

Was going to pull everything off the knee and clean everything then oil.
I still need to figure out power for it, and get tooled up.

Not really concerned about cosmetic appearance, it's an old machine with a history.
 
I did fiddle with it yesterday after work. Its a 65 head with a 66 base/table.
Also... its been greased. Probably a whole tube in the ways. Bleekhh
Gonna definitely break all thst down and clean out the grease.
 
I still need to figure out power for it

Considering it's a step pulley machine, I'd definitely go with a VFD. You'll be able to just leave the belt in mid range for most work and dial in exactly what speed you need. Since it's only 1HP, you could even get one of the voltage doubler VFDs and plug it into 120V, although it will take most the capacity of that branch circuit, but doable.

Dennis
 
Is there any advantage/disadvantage to getting an r8 spindle Chuck for er32 collets?

The biggest advantage I see is er32 collets blocks .. but not sure about anything else
 
Decent score for $500. As noted above, clean all the grit off before cranking the table around too much. As far as ER32 hardware goes, if you have a collet chuck in the spindle for routine use, you lose some headroom between table and spindle because of the axial dimensions of the collet chuck. It isn't clear to me whether overall rigidity is affected by the addition of the collet chuck, which mounts into the R8 spindle anyway, with what is likely somewhat better cutting tool clamping in the ER32 collet. With respect to ER32 collet block application, note simply that ER32 collet blocks cannot typically be fully clamped lying down in a mill vise, whereas a standard 5C collet block can be. I use 5C collet blocks frequently on the mill, and if you have a lathe that uses 5C collets, they are a double-duty workholding setup.
 
Its a 65 head with a 66 base/table.

There is no way to date a BP head. The only thing the head serial number tells you is what type of head it is. That's it.

BTW, there's no such thing as a free machine tool. There's still all of the ancillary stuff you have to buy. I'd hate to guess what I have tied up in new end mills sitting in a drawer. Vise, rotab, and on and on. It never ends. You have not picked a cheap hobby.
JR
 
I did fiddle with it yesterday after work. Its a 65 head with a 66 base/table.
Also... its been greased. Probably a whole tube in the ways. Bleekhh
Gonna definitely break all thst down and clean out the grease.

I would not tear it down just because it had grease used and filled.
.....But knock yourself out.
Bob
 
Is there any advantage/disadvantage to getting an r8 spindle Chuck for er32 collets?

The biggest advantage I see is er32 collets blocks .. but not sure about anything else

My collet blocks for ER 40 were made with an eye to clearing the danged NUT, so are rather fat bastards. Be careful of that sort of overhang, even with the ring-spanner rather than hex closer nuts.

ER 32 gains you wider collapse range per collet than native R8, but I dunno if it is any better at transmitting power. In the process of upgrading the 40-taper to TG100, but at core I'm a Weldon side-lock fan anyway.

W/R Bob's point in re grease. I bought a hammer-operated device to fit the Alemite Zerks. One can drive the solidified grease loose, then force it out with solvents then oil under pressure.

BP innards and where oil goes and flows are really well known. All sorts of rebuilds documented with photos. So long as you have no felts, pipe-cleaners, yarn, or metering-units where the grease was injected you might be OK, teardown optional. Teardown also becomes EASIER once the "grease glue" is out.

If you go there, have a care to NOT DROP no daggone gibs, yah?
 








 
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