Bee Pee clone riser block problems

I have an Alliant Bridgeport series 1 copy. I ordered a 4” riser block from epay I lifted the turret and measured it the best I could with a tape measure. According to the listed dimensions it should have fit.
The block wants to start in the column but it won’t go down. The top of the turret is loose in the block, best I can measure .028 of slop.
I think I can find a lathe that will swing the block to cut the bottom end to fit, but what about the slop in the top, Any ideas.


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You could always put your mill back together, use a rotary table (table would be small so you'd have to use bar stock or something to be able to sit it on there) and mill out the inside edge of the spacer. If you're not to finicky you could always to the same thing with an angle grinder.

FWIW

-Ron

true temper said:

I have an Alliant Bridgeport series 1 copy. I ordered a 4” riser block from epay I lifted the turret and measured it the best I could with a tape measure. According to the listed dimensions it should have fit.
The block wants to start in the column but it won’t go down. The top of the turret is loose in the block, best I can measure .028 of slop.
I think I can find a lathe that will swing the block to cut the bottom end to fit, but what about the slop in the top, Any ideas.

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Click to expand...

I would not worry about it. 4 bolts, all that weight , all that area clamped, it's not going anywhere. An easy way to lift the top half to put a riser in is to first put a 3/4 bar in the collet then clamp it in the vice. Clamp a stout box tube, say 2-3" to the table on each side of the column. put another piece across behind the column, stand a piece up from the cross tube up to the slotter attachment point. clamp it together with a bar clamp or run a piece of threaded rod through the slotter pivot hole, the upright tube and the cross tube. Then you can lift the whole works up with the knee crank, straight up riser in, straight down, slicker than snot. I have done it several times and will never do it any other way again.

MetalCarnage said:

You could always put your mill back together, use a rotary table (table would be small so you'd have to use bar stock or something to be able to sit it on there) and mill out the inside edge of the spacer. If you're not to finicky you could always to the same thing with an angle grinder.

FWIW

-Ron

Click to expand...

Sorry, that wasn't helpful at all. I need to read through a few times before posting in the middle of the night.

Just get some .015" or .012" large steel shim, arrange them about the spacer, cut and folded over to the inside so they lay flat on the top. Place your head down and remove the remnants.

Hope that helps,

-Ron

I borrowed a 20” lathe and my good buddy tuned it up for me, all is good.