BP Bushings & Epoxy?

Guys I know I am going to get hammered on this question but wanted to ask WHY
I have my bushing in hand so doing a dry run before I apply the epoxy to the spindle drive pulley.So I am looking at it I see that really all it does is slide up/down.So really what is the purpose of using the epoxy other than just kinda holding them in place?The raise ring or shoulder thats on each bushing helps keep it in place inside the pulley,the shaft that the bushings slide up/down will keep it in place also.Just asking,wondering if anyone else just left bushings dry and not epoxy in.The risk of epoxy getting onto the other shaft is there so lots of care needs to be taken.Don't beat me up to bad,just have to ask.

Can'tWeld said:

Guys I know I am going to get hammered on this question but wanted to ask WHY
I have my bushing in hand so doing a dry run before I apply the epoxy to the spindle drive pulley.So I am looking at it I see that really all it does is slide up/down.So really what is the purpose of using the epoxy other than just kinda holding them in place?The raise ring or shoulder thats on each bushing helps keep it in place inside the pulley,the shaft that the bushings slide up/down will keep it in place also.Just asking,wondering if anyone else just left bushings dry and not epoxy in.The risk of epoxy getting onto the other shaft is there so lots of care needs to be taken.Don't beat me up to bad,just have to ask.

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epoxy ? tends to be soft and squishy and weak and rarely used. loctite at thin coating is used to help retain items usually gap is .005 or less and since so thin it doesnt compress much.
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epoxy has in general less than 10% the strength of steel. rarely used for thicker gap filling

Just a couple weeks ago I bought a kit from H&W. It comes with the epoxy and two mandrels that are the same size as good shafts. Using the epoxy and the mandrels, when the epoxy dries, makes the bushing fit a lot tighter... not so tight that they don't slide, but they slide with a nice, tight fit.

They definitely fit tighter after the epoxy than the dry fit before. My head is nice and quite now!

Ted

Can'tWeld said:

So really what is the purpose of using the epoxy other than just kinda holding them in place?The raise ring or shoulder thats on each bushing helps keep it in place inside the pulley,the shaft that the bushings slide up/down will keep it in place also.Just asking,wondering if anyone else just left bushings dry and not epoxy in.The risk of epoxy getting onto the other shaft is there so lots of care needs to be taken.

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True observations but without the epoxy the bushings will degrade due to fretting from the thousands of oscillations.
Rather than use the mandrels consider mounting direct to the spindle shaft for a better fit.
I use the red synthetic Mobil grease on the shaft to prevent shaft adhesion from the epoxy.
Have a trouble light with an incandescent bulb? Place it close to the spindle to provide a heat source for
a faster cure as the set of epoxy depends on time and temperature. Cover to retain heat.
Use two popsicle sticks and glue them together to check how fast the epoxy cures. As the epoxy
develops a "thick" set slide the sheave up and down a little on the shaft, usually fifteen minutes as the
supplied epoxy is a quick set mix so be organized and work fast.
24 hour minimum set time but most epoxy reaches final hardness in seven days.
If assembled too soon the epoxy may flow due to belt pressure.
Do it this way and the repair will last longer than using the mandrel.
John

Thanks guys for the suggestions which I did apply.I did get bushings from H&W but I did not get the kit due to the motor pulley has the teal color bushings.So no arbor for me but using Johns ideal which I had the red mobil grease and the other half of the pulley was setting on my bench then why not.Made sure all is clean kinda rough up the black plastic bushings w/sandpaper.Apply the supply epoxy,lined all up like Barry did on his Youtube,all slid in place with no issues of hanging up.Going to give it bout hr then slide the pulley up/down just enough to make sure all is well.Guys only get one try at this and wanted make sure I get it right the first time.Questions to come when I start on the teal color replacement bushing that really makes me nervous.Thanks guys I feel good about this

Can'tWeld said:

Questions to come when I start on the teal color replacement bushing that really makes me nervous.Thanks guys I feel good about this

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Jhruska had good advice, but still.. makes me think even the need of any of that is a tad Mickey-mouse for a machine-tool.

So I feel even better. No Bridgeport here at all! Steel-on-steel. Roller bearings. They JF work. Must have failed "organic" 'coz they are too ignorant of hydrocarbon polymer chemistry to offer to do anything else.