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  1. #21
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    I'm not looking for a full perfect rebuild at this time. Just looking to make some modest improvements. So while I got table and saddle off, I'd thought I'd try to improve the contact surfaces a bit. Then add some bearing surface to the saddle on both sides, for its mating surface to knee, and to table.

    I'm not going to mess with the dovetails at this time, not too much anyway. Mostly I just want to improve rigidity on flat surfaces.

    All the surfaces I ran a couple of scraping passes, mostly just to break the shiny surfaces up and get high spot lines down. Then starting with a straight edge on knee, we can see the only contact area is on outer edges. Using a feeler gauge I was about .004" at lowest spot in the middle, on both sides.

    48.jpg

    After spending good number of hours on it, I got the center low spot on both sides down to about .002". I scraped both sides the same number of times, doing one, then the other on every cycle.

    Working the mating surface on saddle I made nice progress, maybe 35-40% better contact area with the straight edge. Besides the straight edge, I periodically blued the knee and shoved saddle around on it. In the pic you can see my contact area is not 100% yet on the four contact areas, but when pushed on saddle it is damn close to 100%. I added some flaking and will roll with it. Not perfect I know, but improved.

    49.jpg

    I had leveled the machine about 6 months ago. I also made a minor leveling adjustment with table and saddle off. Now before scraping top of saddle and table I wanted to check where I was, in case I want to scrape a little heavier one side or not.

    My levels are pretty well zero'd in, whether I flip it 180 degrees or not, I'm within .00025". Checking right to left on both ways I'm about as dead on as it gets.

    50.jpg

    Checking front to rear, I'm averaging about .002" high toward rear, or toward column. That is with knee lock loose. If I tighten the lock, the number improves in my favor by .0005". Regardless, I know the front way has a little more wear.

    51.jpg

  2. #22
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    Checking the top surfaces of saddle:

    52.jpg

    You can see my contact area is not too good. Also we knew from the level the front way was wore more. This is further confirmed with blueing touching the center relief:

    53.jpg

    To help improve the level reading, I ran several scraping cycles on rear way surface, and the two center relief areas only. Nice improvement, and from here, I will work front and rear simultaneously until front contact area improves quite a bit.

    54.jpg

    Shop assistant feigning injury over tripping hazards:

    55.jpg

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  4. #23
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    Having stuck the saddle on knee I had tightened gib , so that saddle was stable and moved freely in center of knee. But the saddle would tighten and stop near either end. I put yellow paint marks on the ends of travel, then kept scraping and was gradually moving outward.

    After a while I removed saddle again, and worked it and knee. The final result there is I have full travel to front of machine, and move freely to the yellow mark closest to column, and thats with saddle gib adjusted nice. Also, I can't get a .0015" feeler gauge between straight edge and knee surface. The front was a big surprise as I nearly killed myself when I yanked saddle clear off machine my first try.

    58.jpg

    To get there I was alternating between using a straight edges, then checking the mating parts together. I'd blue the knee then run saddle over it.

    59.jpg

    Checking the saddle surface after one of those checks:

    60.jpg

    I did work the dovetail some, but not to a large extent. Doing a check on the gib, thought I might want to work that a bit, as it was arched pretty good:

    61.jpg

    Spending some time with it and getting contact area moving outward:

    62.jpg

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  6. #24
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    Finished with saddle and gib, as far as going with them anyway. Moved back to dealing with cross and long feed nuts. Thought about hack sawing them, figured I could do it a little cleaner parting them off:

    81.jpg

    After parting I de-burred and cleaned up the leading threads on edge of cut. Then out on the bench, using lead screws, I did a fairly close adjustment of nut halves in the assembly. I didn't want to bind up or have issues installing lead screws once assembly was installed.

    Then I installed the assembly. I added a tab to each locking screw to better hold adjusting screw:

    82.jpg

    Doing a minor pre-adjustment of nuts worked out well. I could screw crossfeed right through both nut halves. I also put outer bearing retainer on prior to install to save beating bearings into that assembly later:

    83.jpg

    With crossfeed screw through both nuts, I could then access the adjuster for final adjustment. This took a few tries. You need to tighten outer bearing flange to feel and check it. In the end I adjusted to where I have about .002-003" slop on dial at outer ends of lead screw, moving one direction to the other. The center of screw I have about .007-.008" on dial when switching directions. Not bad wear at all for crossfeed screw:

    84.jpg

    That section wrapped up. I got a set of 4 dials for this a few years ago, finally a chance to put them on .

    85.jpg

  7. #25
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    Moving on to the table. The table is 42". My longest straight edge is 36". Laying the straight edge on there I could get a .006" feeler gauge in the middle on one way surface, and a .007" on the other.

    I did run several cycles scraping it to reduce those numbers, and to break up the surface a bit. But I can tell you right now I don't have enough ass to scrape that totally flat . I have a #3 mill in mid project, when its finished I'll yank this table back off and run it on there. For now I'm using it as is.

    99.jpg

    The gib was in pretty bad shape as well, and only contacting in the center:

    100.jpg 101.jpg

    Hard to see all the blue in pic, as I began scraping we see the contact area moving outward toward oil holes.

    102.jpg

    I spent a little more time on gib, then mounted table. Working on fitting gib. Real nice not having a bent adjuster now . In the end I added a .010" shim to stationary or non-bearing side of gib. I left about 30% relief in the middle, shimming the outer ends. I also did the same to saddle gib, but added .009" in shims there.

    Anyway it put the gib and the adjuster right in the sweet spot of adjustment:

    103.jpg

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  9. #26
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    I bought a felt kit too. New felts were pretty thick, more than a 1/4". The retainers I have use maybe 1/8" thick felts. I had some 3/16" F5 felt so I cut that out till I get some thinner stuff in:

    105.jpg 104.jpg

    Got the long feed screw in and adjusted the back lash with the two nut halves after cutting the one piece assembly. I got back lash to about .005" toward ends of table and about .013" in the middle.

    Left table end bearing for lead screw was pinned with two dowels. Servo side was not, so I had a little bit of aligning to do there.

    Lube system works great. I can see eveything that gets oil does within 3 pumps of the Bijur pump. One modifcation I will do, since I gutted all the pop fittings. The fittings on knee for column ways, they are the low point. Overnight, gravity will let oil in lines to saddle drain to those lower knee fittings and run down column ways. By adding a small manual valve to each fitting on knee I can stop that. Open them to lube, close them when I finish pumping. . .

    With gibs adjusted and slop removed, and oil system working. . .well its real nice operating now. Quite a bit more stable and rigid. With saddle gib adjusted right, I have full travel to front of knee, but I lose about 3" on column side where I didn't quite get dovetail or way straight, and it begins to tighten up. The same for the table, I lose a few inches on either end with current gib adjustment.

    All in all, I'm real pleased. I got more done than I originally set out to do, and the results aren't terrible. Plus I'll have a plan for when ever I get around to more extensive rebuild. I bought a section of black mat, I'm going to cut out some way covers for knee and column. But for all intents and purposes this project is finished. Woot !

    108.jpg 107.jpg

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  11. #27
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    you can get one way check valves for all sorts of tubing, that way you wouldn't have to remember to turn those valves on or off. I have the same problem with my mill and that fixed it for me.

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  13. #28
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    Used a thin black floor mat, flipped upside down, for way covering. The rear side is bolted to column and saddle. Plenty of reach with knee down and saddle out. And gets out of the way nice with knee raised.

    Front side only bolted to saddle. It won't cover fully if saddle is back, but I only care about driving over chips and debris in the shorter working range. If bringing saddle forward, I can fold it in to keep it off dial.

    125.jpg 126.jpg 127.jpg

  14. #29
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    Hi,
    Thanks for the pics and the info, probably something I should do to my 65 Series 1, but I'm to busy using it now!

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