Bridgeport - new to me with questions
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  1. #1
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    Default Bridgeport - new to me with questions

    Very excited about my new to me 2J Bridgeport purchase. I was picky about the way condition and I am happy with my final decision. The table has a lot of little dings in it and some surface rust. Whatís the best way to clean the table? Iím going to clean and degrease the whole machine. Itís Missing the original one shot pump, z axis handle, speed dial cover, and the power down feed has a broken piece where the hand wheel is supposed to be. The speed change selector for the power down feed seems to have a lot of slop in it but everything functions. I ran the head through the speed ranges. Very minor amount of clatter from the head but it may be a normal level but Iím new to them so donít know. The seller said to make a list of needed parts and he would send them free of charge. Paid $3900 loaded on a trailer. Iím very happy with the overall condition. Has a servo power feed but the cords are cut off of it? Other than the missing parts should I go through the head and check out the condition proactively? Could definitely use as is.
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  2. #2
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    Chrome ways on the knee =good. Table ,take a dull old smooth cut or similar and draw file to get the high spots/burrs knocked down and finish with a stone. Then leave it alone,small dings don't hurt a thing.Use it for a while before digging into things to see what it actually needs.

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  4. #3
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    Agree with JohnEvans generally, use it for a while before you decide to tear it apart, dress the table surface with a stone after getting rid of high spots that a file can see. The green Scotchbrite dish scouring pads (no abrasive) are OK for getting little rust patches knocked down on the table surface, with a little light oil. Don't use the standard machine shop Scotchbrite hand pads, as they have embedded abrasive that will get left behind.

    When you replace the Bijur oil pump, make sure that oil is getting everywhere it is supposed to go. The seller's offer of follow-on parts sounds good.

    The Y-axis ways look very nice.

  5. #4
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    If you ran it without a tool installed the rattle is from the loose draw bar...so nothing to worry about. I wouldn't mess with the head until it's obvious it's time to do something.

    Congrats and have fun!

  6. #5
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    You have a power drawbar, I didn't see the control buttons for it.

  7. #6
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    I spent about 2 hours cleaning the machine. I have a few hours to go. I ordered a new 14” flat smooth file for the table. I did run it without a tool in it so that could be the noise (don’t have any r8 tooling yet).It does have the controls for the power draw bar and a pressure regulator and quick disconnect on the side. Once I get the file I will go over the table followed by a stone. How hard is it to replace the broken off power feed reverse plunger? I think I’m going to remove the power feed speed selector plate. The handle is very loose as if the shaft or shaft hole is worn. My to do list:

    Finish cleaning the machine
    File and stone the table
    Investigate the excessive backlash on x access
    Determine if the servo 100 power feed cordS were cut during removal or due to failure
    Replace the oil pump and check lines for restrictions
    Investigate loose power downfeed speed selector handle
    Replace broken off power down feed reversing plunger
    Check gib adjustments
    Replace way wipers
    Start saving for basic tooling.

  8. #7
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    What do you consider excessive backlash?

    Also, the servo 100 uses the same parts as the Servo 150.

    Jon
    H&W Machine Repair

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    .075” x axis backlash with the table in the center. .070” with the table on the ends. Screw looks good and being the backlash is relatively even I suspect the issue is with the nut. Also found the servo power feed has a striped plastic gear on the bottom. Brass gear on the screw looks good.

  10. #9
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    Ya, sounds like the screw is fine. A new set of nuts will take care of that (part number 1069

    Those plastic gears are really easy to replace.

    The part number for the power cord is 5071 and the zytel gear is 4737.

    Jon
    H&W Machine Repair

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    If the cords are cut off make sure you don't swap the limit switch cord and the power cord when you replace them.

  12. #11
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    There should be a lubricator in the air line for the power drawbar.

    Many table nuts were one piece to speed up machine assembly. Take it out and cut it in two at the split in the center.
    Make sure the adjusting screw and the lock screw are in good shape before re-assembly.

    See if the seller will give you a 3/8" or 1/2" collet to get you started.

    Bill

  13. #12
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    Yes there is an in-line lubricator. It needs some attention though. I need to remove the table as I’m pretty sure one of the 4 lines are plugged to the x axis. I’ll check the nut at that time.

  14. #13
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    Got some more done on the Bridgeport today. Took the bed and saddle off. Found multiple plugged oil holes and one plugged metering unit. I cleaned out all the oil holes and oil worm trails and cleaned the metering unit and lines. I went ahead and split both the X and Y axis nuts and have the Y back together. Was able to get Y axis backlash from .035 to .011Ē with saddle in the center. The Y axis acme screw is more worn than the X as you can see a slight thickness difference on the center thread. Even though worn I have full travel with no binding at the current adjustment. I cleaned the saddle in a solvent tank and cleaned both gibs. Upon disassembly I found the Y axis gib screw bottomed out. Barely any detectable saddle movement but I think I will shim it. I have full travel at the current adjustment. Today will be the last update for a while as I wonít have much time to mess with it the next 4 days. I need to get shim stock for the gib, a new gib lock screw(small one), felt wipers, and one metering unit.
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