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Bridgeport table won't raise and lower

redgtsviper

Plastic
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Location
ft worth tx
I just inherited a 1974 bridgeport. I am very new to the bridgeport. The table is about sitting about center of the up and down travel. However when I turn the crank to raise and lower it will not move. Can anyone tell me what could keep the knee from traveling up and down.
 
Can anyone tell me what could keep the knee from traveling up and down.

The knee clamp is engaged.

The knee gib is adjusted 'too tight.'

Lack of lube to the knee ways/knee gib.

The knee gib is 'froze up' aka lack of lube, debris, and or rust has jammed it tight in the dovetail preventing
knee travel.

Make sure the knee clamp is released, remove the knee way wipers, clean the ways and add oil to the top of the ways. If the mill came with a Biljur oil pump or some equivalent use it to pump some oil to the ways. Get some oil or penatrating oil in there to loosen the crud.
The gib should come out for inspection. Do not force it or shear the slot in the adjustment screw. This is a single ended gib, there is only one adjustment screw at the top of the gib. This is the widest, thickest part of the gib. Ideally, back out the adjusting screw as the knee is cranked down. The friction between the column dovetail and the sliding face of the gib will hold the gib in position as the knee drops. Once there is contamination between the column way and the gib, moving the knee up will jam the gib tighter in place, so avoid raising the knee.
Use the Search tool and find other threads with a Bridgeport knee problem, 'stuck knee' ect.
John
 
Move the saddle in towards the column and center the table on the saddle when trying to back out the gib. This helps 'balance' the load.

This has worked a few times: Run the saddle all the way out and move the table to one side. Add some oil to the column dovetails. Go to the end of the table and shake the mill. This leverage has worked a few times to break up the crud glueing the gib in place and alowwing oil to work down the ways.
 
Three years ago my Bridgeport did exactly the same thing - I was actually winding the table downwards and all of a sudden it jammed. I tried copious quantities of release oil - jacking in both directions and even hitting on the bottom of the gib strip to move it upwards all to no avail. Nothing worked. I had suggestions from the members here to lie the machine on its back and drill a hole through the base of the machine in order to strike the base of the gib strip.
I chose not to do that because I did not have the room - nor was I going to do that on my own.
My final solution was to cut the dovetail off the knee with an angle grinder and get a second hand replacement knee
Not very elegant I grant you but worked for me.
What you have is a remarkably common occurance in a Bridgeport and it is very difficult to cure without drastic action
I wish you luck
 
I feel exactly the same way - it was a very reluctant decision but I had spent the best part of three months trying to get the knee to move - unsuccessfully.
I was faced with virtually no alternative - and it worked - nothing else had
 
Ok when looking at the expanded view on page 70 of the PDF link, I see the knee lock shaft. I can only turn that a 1/4 to half turn because the handle hits the knee, I am wondering if it has the correct handle or should this just turn a small amount.
 
To expand on the above post. How can I complete remove the knee lock shaft? Does it remove easy, for now seems like I should pull it out and take it out of the equation until I figure out what my issue is. I am hoping that the lock is the issue
 
Three years ago my Bridgeport did exactly the same thing - I was actually winding the table downwards and all of a sudden it jammed. I tried copious quantities of release oil - jacking in both directions and even hitting on the bottom of the gib strip to move it upwards all to no avail. Nothing worked. I had suggestions from the members here to lie the machine on its back and drill a hole through the base of the machine in order to strike the base of the gib strip.
I chose not to do that because I did not have the room - nor was I going to do that on my own.
My final solution was to cut the dovetail off the knee with an angle grinder and get a second hand replacement knee
Not very elegant I grant you but worked for me.
What you have is a remarkably common occurance in a Bridgeport and it is very difficult to cure without drastic action
I wish you luck


Wow, that's what I call a final solution. Regards Tyrone.
 
Gentlemen
It is very easy to sit and criticise my somewhat terminal method of solving this problem - but where were you when I asked on this forum for help?
And as I have already pointed out I had spent 3 months trying unsuccessfully to move the knee.
And finally I now have a machine that has a knee that raises and falls so it worked.
David Wright
 
I know I'm late to this party, but I read something about this recently. It was in the H&W Machine Repair newsletter (Link-->H&W - Parts for Bridgeport Mills, New & Used Machinery, DRO's, Power Feeds<--), so I am cutting an pasting. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer. :)

Knee Gib Removal


The phone rings. "H & W Machine Repair, this is Barry, can I help you?"



It always begins the same. "Good morning Barry, this is Doug at XYZ and the knee on my mill is stuck, I can't get it back up."



This is like having a root canal and a colonoscopy on the same day. 99 out of 100 times the problem is the 18" adjusting gib between the knee and the column. The root cause of this problem is a lack of lubrication. That may be because the lubrication system is not being pumped as often as it should be or because the oil meter, a $12.64, item is plugged and not allowing way oil to get to the gib. Whatever the problem, you don't want it.



Don't let it happen in the first place. The one shot lubricator on most mills needs to be pumped at least once a day. (I'm assuming here you use your mill every day) However, it never hurts to make sure oil is being delivered to the ways. The easy way to do that is, raise the knee up near the top and pump the lubricator a couple of times. Come back in an hour and see if oil is running down the column ways. If it is, you're in good shape. If it's not, you need an immediate answer to the question - why not? It could be the one shot lubricator isn't working properly, the oil meter is plugged at the distribution manifold or the oil line may be crimped or plugged. But first, before something really goes wrong .........
Z Axis Gib Adjustment
Z Axis Gib Adjustment



Remove the covers and the way wipers on the top of the knee. This will expose the gib and the gib adjusting screw. Flood this area and the other side with way oil and go have a coke or a cup of coffee. Come back in an hour and see if the oil has worked its way to the bottom of the column way surface. If it has, you are a lucky man. You still need to find out why it's not getting there from the one shot pump but that is not so hard. If the oil is still standing at the top, you are on the cusp of a real problem.



The first thing you need to do is put some blocks under the knee, then lower it until it is supported by the blocks. This is done to take the weight and pressure off the gib. Next, very, very carefully, "try" to loosen the gib adjusting screw with a straight bladed screwdriver. Please, be very careful doing this. If you try too hard, you can easily break the tang off the gib and if you do, you are really in a world of hurts. If you can loosen the screw, do so, then flood the area again with way oil. Next, raise the knee, remove the supporting blocks. With those out of the way, lower the knee, completely remove the gib and clean it.




What if the knee is stuck? DO NOT LOWER THE KNEE! Step number 1. Remove the way wiper covers and the way wipers. Flood the area with Penetrating Oil and let it stand. While you're waiting, find a piece of flat stock or some type of tool that you can slide up behind the knee and make contact with the bottom of the gib. Step number 2. You've got to get the load off the knee. If you have a small bottle jack, get it and put it under the knee. Put slings under the table and raise it with an overhead crane or you can even use a fork truck but you've got to get that weight off the knee. Step number 3. While someone is tapping on the gib from the bottom, "very carefully", try backing out the gib adjustment screw. Hopefully, this will be the end of your problem.


Broken Z-Axis Gib
OK, worst condition, the tang on the gib is broken and you've lowered the knee all the way to the bottom. Disconnect the electricity to the mill. Remove the Head, Ram and the turret from the column. Removing these pieces takes time and labor, but removing them prevents a lot of potential damage should something go wrong with what I am about to suggest. "
Very carefully", tip the mill backwards so the column is laying horizontality. Drill a 1" hole in the base of the column as you see in the picture below. Take a bar or a rod, machine it or grind it down so that it will slide up into space between the knee and the column and touch the gib. If the tang is broken, the gib may be protruding out the bottom. With your tool against the bottom of the gib, HIT IT! Hit it hard and with enthusiasm. You have to knock that gib loose. If it doesn't come loose when you hit it, HIT IT AGAIN! There is no tomorrow, the cavalry is not coming, this is it, do or die.

Z-Axis Gib Mark And now, a word of encouragement. A number of times, we have had to resort to this barbaric tactic for customers in their shop. Only once have we failed to get the gib out. Sometimes it comes out and can be used again. Most likely you will have to do some grinding on the bottom of the gib where you buggered it up. Be warned though, sometimes it comes out in pieces so be prepared to replace the gib.



Remember, all this can be prevented if the lubrication system and all the delivery parts and pieces are working properly. Take the time to make sure it's all working.
 
I have a similar issue. I could crank handle with no resistance so I assumed a sheared pin. However, when I look under the knee there is a brass plate on the drive screw (gear), looks like two bolts attach the plate to the bottom housing. Both bolts were backed out so I have replaced them with longer bolts because there were only a few threads catching. Now the handle won’t turn. I assume the gibs are probably froze up by now as it sat for about 2 years. Would using a floor jack on each side and spanning a beam across under the knee to help break the knee free be safe?
 








 
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