Cleaning up bridgeport mill - Page 7
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  1. #121
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    I am ready to start removing parts on the knee and remove it. With the condition of the machine, do you think I can rotate the turret to make room for the knee to come off? Will it tip over if I try this? The ram is pretty far out. I have the 1 ton harbor freight engine hoist for lifting. Can I remove the turret, ram, and head altogether? Or just remove one piece at a time? Any suggestions on order of removal, rigging, etc. are appreciated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by adambomb777 View Post
    I am ready to start removing parts on the knee and remove it. With the condition of the machine, do you think I can rotate the turret to make room for the knee to come off? Will it tip over if I try this?
    If it worries you then invert the head and drop the motor, then rotate 180.

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    Hi

    I am currently doing the same kind of tear down as you but I’m a little further along

    I would remove the motor on its own as that’s a heavy piece,

    Next up remove the upper and lower head assembly,

    Then you can remove the quill housing, this would be easier with the table in place as you can raise the table right up and out a bit of wood on it then remove the 4 bolts holding it to the ram then lower the table and then lift it off manually to your workbench,

    The quill assembly is heavy but if your reasonably strong fit and healthy then it’s not too bad,

    There is a threaded hole in the ram top,

    My uk Adcock Shipley bridgeport has a 3/4-10 inch thread for a lifting eye, so you can lift the whole mill or just the ram etc if you wish


    Once the ram is off you can remove the knee gib, place a bar inside the knee webbing and secure it with clamps to stop it slipping and then lift the knee off using a strap and your hoist

    I have seen 2 peoplelift the knee off but if you have a hoist then why strain yourself


    Hope that helps a bit,

    Thanks
    Marc

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    I would post some pics but don’t think you can on this site via my iPhone???

    If you can could you tell me how

    Thanks
    Marc

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    Quote Originally Posted by M K View Post
    I would post some pics but don’t think you can on this site via my iPhone???

    If you can could you tell me how

    Thanks
    Marc
    I use the tapatalk app on my phone for this forum. It makes adding pictures super easy. I have done it through the forum itself, but the resolution was not very good. I couldn't figure out how to make it better. I also have a link in this thread that has all the pictures I have taken stored on Google photos.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rons View Post
    If it worries you then invert the head and drop the motor, then rotate 180.
    I was just worried about rotating possible rusty surfaces. I don't know how much rust is in there. Most of the surfaces that were not fully exposed have not been to bad. (The ways covered by the table and saddle) My original plan was to pull the head straight out after undoing the 4 bolts. Also, do you know how I would lower the rpm to take the motor off, without power? I didn't know if it could be turned by hand while adjusting. Im not even sure what position the levers and handles need to be to spin the spindle(if it spins at all).

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  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by adambomb777 View Post
    I was just worried about rotating possible rusty surfaces. I don't know how much rust is in there.
    What if the whole mechanism is rusted tight. Use some penetrating oil and gently rotate it. I am a firm believer in running a machine for a while before getting into it all the way. You can do a bunch of oiling, greasing, cleaning, etc. without taking everything apart.

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  9. #128
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    I recently broke my Bridgeport down like you're doing there. I rotated the head inverted and connected ropes to it and then lifted it off using my HF 2 ton hoist. No issues doing it that way. You could also (as suggested by someone else) remove the motor first, as it is heavy. Also, while rotating the head into inverted position, support it while it is being rotated so the screw drive isn't too strained (especially if it's rusty). Then separately remove the ram by screwing an eye into the threaded hole on the top of it. Support it using the HF hoist and then crank it off the rack system.

    Then you can use the hoist to remove the table, or what I did is use my HF motorcycle hydraulic stand to remove the table. That worked really well. But you could use the hoist too if you don't have the motorcycle stand.

    I manually removed the saddle, it was light enough for me to handle manually.

    I used the HF hoist to remove the knee. All you need is a length of round or square bar (tubing or solid) about 1-1/2 ft long and maybe 1" in diameter to insert into the inside of the knee (through the hole in the top of the knee after the sliding cover plates are removed). The hoist connects to it and easily removes the knee after that (don't forget to remove the 90 deg gear inside and unlock it and also remove the gib).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maschine View Post
    I recently broke my Bridgeport down like you're doing there. I rotated the head inverted and connected ropes to it and then lifted it off using my HF 2 ton hoist. No issues doing it that way. You could also (as suggested by someone else) remove the motor first, as it is heavy. Also, while rotating the head into inverted position, support it while it is being rotated so the screw drive isn't too strained (especially if it's rusty). Then separately remove the ram by screwing an eye into the threaded hole on the top of it. Support it using the HF hoist and then crank it off the rack system.

    Then you can use the hoist to remove the table, or what I did is use my HF motorcycle hydraulic stand to remove the table. That worked really well. But you could use the hoist too if you don't have the motorcycle stand.

    I manually removed the saddle, it was light enough for me to handle manually.

    I used the HF hoist to remove the knee. All you need is a length of round or square bar (tubing or solid) about 1-1/2 ft long and maybe 1" in diameter to insert into the inside of the knee (through the hole in the top of the knee after the sliding cover plates are removed). The hoist connects to it and easily removes the knee after that (don't forget to remove the 90 deg gear inside and unlock it and also remove the gib).
    Thanks for the insight.

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    Usually, when you take apart a BP it's top down. They are so darn tippy if the base isn't bolted down. So, when disassembling, you remove the head, then ram, then turret, before taking the table saddle and knee. Just the safest way to do it.
    JR

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    If I were you I would remove the cover under the spindle motor and spray the shaft with tons of WD 40. Then put a Allen Cap screw in the bottom of the spindle shaft with a washer and screw it in and as you screw it in the spring on the lower pulley will open up. Then unscrew the to cap screws holding the motor on. Some of those motors had lift rings on them but if not tie 1/2" Nylon rope around it so it lifts from 2 sides so it comes up even. If the belt doesn't come out cut it as it is shot anyway. May have to use a saw-zill or hack saw. Then start to pull the head apart. I seems this thread has been on here way to long and it is still assembled, (Jan 4). I could have had it apart the same week I started, just do it.
    Last edited by Richard King; 03-04-2018 at 12:33 PM.

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  14. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRIowa View Post
    Usually, when you take apart a BP it's top down. They are so darn tippy if the base isn't bolted down. So, when disassembling, you remove the head, then ram, then turret, before taking the table saddle and knee. Just the safest way to do it.
    JR
    I was just trying to get the lower half moving so I could use it to take the head off, not realizing I couldn't get the knee off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard King View Post
    If I were you I would remove the cover under the spindle motor and spray the shaft with tons of WD 40. Then put a Allen Cap screw in the bottom of the spindle shaft with a washer and screw it in and as you screw it in the spring on the lower pulley will open up. Then unscrew the to cap screws holding the motor on. Some of those motors had lift rings on them but if not tie 1/2" Nylon rope around it so it lifts from 2 sides so it comes up even. If the belt doesn't come out cut it as it is shot anyway. May have to use a saw-zill or hack saw. Then start to pull the head apart. I seems this thread has been on here way to long and it is still assembled, (Jan 4). I could have had it apart the same week I started, just do it.
    I appreciate the information. You probably could have, but my family will always be my priority. I just work on this when I get some spare time. All the parts that I have removed are also ready to go back on the machine.

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    What RK said is good info on how to remove the motor by opening up the pulley. H&W has created an excellent series of videos on the Bridgeport including one on motor disassembly. I recommend viewing them to get some further insight into the machine.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Maschine View Post
    What RK said is good info on how to remove the motor by opening up the pulley. H&W has created an excellent series of videos on the Bridgeport including one on motor disassembly. I recommend viewing them to get some further insight into the machine.

    I have watched almost all their videos. They are very helpful.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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  20. #136
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    I've watched the H&W video where he takes the belt housing base apart. I have taken out the four bolts, lubed everything with pb blaster the last two days, and smacked everything with a rubber mallet. The only difference I see, is the drawbar is still in. Is this the problem? If so, does the drawbar just unscrew? Any comments are appreciated.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190202_152542.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by adambomb777 View Post
    If so, does the drawbar just unscrew? Any comments are appreciated.
    The drawbar has threads on the end, but they are there to "draw" up an R8 tooling (R8 collets, R8 adapters, etc.)

    It looks like there isn't any tooling in your mill, so the drawbar isn't going to unscrew. It's just stuck. It should normally just pull right out. If there is no tooling in the spindle, gravity is all that holds the drawbar in the machine. There could be something down in the drawbar cavity holding it, most likely the end is just rusted in the spindle. Since your machine had been rained on, there was of course water washed down that hole, which probably seized the drawbar in the hole.

    Unfortunately you're not going to be able to get the pancake housing off (your next step)until you get that drawbar out.

    I'm not sure how you would best make that happen. Perhaps pour some evaporust down in the drawbar hole?

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    Thank you very much for the explanation. The rust remover suggestion worked excellent. Still had to use a brass drift to get the drawbar started, but could only go so far. I then used a thick piece of rubber and vise-grip while hitting it with a mallet from the top. After removing the drawbar, it was still not easy to get the pancake housing off. But with the help of some more rust remover, it finally did come off. On to the next steps. Thanks again.

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    I think a part broke off from the spindle bull gear and the splined gear hub. Should I try to hit the spindle out the bottom or continue to try and get the rest of the bull gear assembly out? Is there anything that keeps the bearing sleeve from coming out? I plugged the hole under the small bull gear and filled the whole assembly with transmission fluid. I was trying to get it to flow over where the springs sit under the bull gear. I let it sit for days so it would hopefully loosen everything up. I guess there was just too much rust.

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    So I was showing Barry these pictures because it looked crazy to me, and he pretty much concurred. Based on the last few posts, he is a little concerned about what steps might have been missed/unable to be done and wanted to ensure that you knew we offer free phone support. AKA if you would like to call 800-285-5271 he is very intrigued about where exactly you are at and what exactly happened to get there.

    Jon
    H&W Machine Repair


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