Collet Closer for Hardinge TFB-H manual toolroom lathe
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  1. #1
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    Default Collet Closer for Hardinge TFB-H manual toolroom lathe

    We have a cranky old-school machinist here at our shop whom I usually try to do anything I can for to keep him happy. When we first hired him 12 years ago, I bought, at his insistence, a number of used Hardinges before we found one he liked, a model TFB-H. The collet closer on it worked fine he asked me to get the lathe tuned, last year. The closer was damaged by the machinery repair service we'd hired, and they haven't been able to fix it.

    So I went and bought a generic collet closer from JFK Precision in LA to replace it. But my machinist hates it--it keeps releasing the parts and causing them to fail.

    So now I'm trying to either:
    - get the original Hardinge closer repaired,
    - buy a well-made replacement one, or
    - find some place that sells Hardinge-style closers.

    Any ideas?

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    I bought a new one from Hardinge about 25 years ago and put it on a Tsugami lathe. Only had to ream the hole to 13mm. Cost back then was $1800.
    What did they do to it? My first guess would be damaging the tube trying to get the bearing off. Can not be a gorilla when you do that, common sense will work real well. If you know what is buggered up ask Hardinge if they will sell just that part. These closers seem to last forever when you take them apart ever 10 years are so and lube them with moly grease.

    I did try a JFK on that Tsugami and hated it. Took it off and put it on a Lin Haun turret lathe and it is still there, Better than the original Lin Haun but that is not saying much.

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    I have a TFB-H lathe and other Hardinge machines. I have several used Hardinge lever collet closers that are for the TFB-H or HLV-H, and some for other models. I have rebuilt a number of them, so I am familiar with them.

    I can sell a Hardinge TFB-H lever closer in good condition. I can take the defective assembly in part trade, trade-in amount depending on the damage, of course.

    I would be happy to look at pictures of the damaged assembly to help resolve what is needed.

    Larry

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    They cut the tube too short, and now say they can't reattach it to the rest of the closer because it won't reach through the headstock.

    We have JFKs on other lathes in the shop and they're ok. The guy running our Hardinge is super picky, though.

    Charley

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    Hi Larry:

    I'd be happy to either send the old one in for repair, or buy your rebuilt one and send this in for trade-in. All it needs is a slightly longer tube and it should be fine.

    Attached are some photos. img_3286.jpg

    If you want to call to set up a PO, our number is 408-259-7337.

    Charley

    img_3285.jpg

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    Can not imagine why they cut that draw tube.

    I purchased items from Larry before, you will be happy and pay a fair price.

    I am going to agree with your "picky lathe guy". A JFK closer does not belong on a Hardinge, only on lesser lathes will it be OK.

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    I certainly can sell you a good working unit. And I can probably salvage some parts from the mess that was made of your original closer assembly. I cannot guess why the tube was cut or what happened to the missing hand lever. The visible damage makes it impossible to predict whether any parts are still usable.

    I need a dimension so that I can provide a tube that fits your lathe. Hardinge made different lengths of the serrated collar that slides on to the left end of the lathe spindle. The collar length affects the length of the collet closer tube. Of course, the first question is whether the collar is still on the lathe. If the collar is in place, the easiest thing to measure is the overall length of the lathe spindle and collar.

    To help explain, I measured that dimension on my TFB-H lathe. With a short collar, the length is 19-1/8" and with a long collar, the length is 19-3/4". Here is a picture of the two collars. Each collar has an internal step that affects the overall length of the spindle. The step is 7/16" in the short collar and 1-1/16" in the long collar, explaining the 5/8" difference between them.

    dsc02924.jpg

    I sent a private message with my email address.

    Larry

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    Larry,
    You suppose they did not line up the key on the collar when reinstalling? Cutting the tube with the idea of lengthening it since it appeared too short when they tried to reassemble? If so the collar should be removed and inspected for damage to the key and collar.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FredC View Post
    Larry,
    You suppose they did not line up the key on the collar when reinstalling? Cutting the tube with the idea of lengthening it since it appeared too short when they tried to reassemble? If so the collar should be removed and inspected for damage to the key and collar.
    Yep, and if you don't line that collar up JUST right, and/or anything has a tiny burr, it will get stuck either on the spindle or the key, and if you force it, it will get really stuck. That collar is ground to a precision slip-fit and if it doesn't just slide on, you've got it misaligned or there's a burr, back up and start over again, don't force it even by pushing (dont ask how I know). I've scribed the key-location on that collar which helps with the radial alignment.

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