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Compound disassembly TL10

Warthog 17

Plastic
Joined
Mar 7, 2021
Hello, newbie here. Sorry if my nomenclature on this is off, but.. I just got a 1947 Hardinge TL 10. Well used and it has been sitting awhile, so I have just started to go thru it. The compound slide was tight and lumpy so I took it it off and have the slides separated. The screw assembly still is not turning smoothly. I can not figure out how to get it further broken down. I am reluctant to use much force for fear of destroying it.TL compound.jpg
 

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Loosen the hex nut near the crank. Remove two set screws from the big ball of the crank. Pull off the crank. Remove the hex nut. From there, I don't recall, but this will get you farther along.

Larry
 
Thanks. I have the two set screws out of the handle, but it is pressed on pretty good. I don't have a puller to fit.. Think it would hurt to tap the hande wit a small hammer to get it off?
 
The inner, pointed, set screw is supposed to engage a countersunk hole in the feed screw. Sometimes it distorts the edge of the countersink, making the crank difficult to remove. And it is possible that someone did not line up the pointed screw with its hole. Then you get a real burr that makes the crank extra difficult to remove. Once both screws are out of the crank, grab the square threaded end of the feed screw with annealed copper lined vise jaws. Obviously, the feed threads must not be damaged, so be careful. I find that copper water tubing is a good source of pure copper. Heat it to red hot and then cool it (fast or slow, as convenient) to anneal it. Then try to rotate the crank by hand and work it off the end of the feed screw. Do not bend the screw; they break.

The picture shows a Hardinge feed screw after I repaired the broken-off end. You can see what the end looks like with the crank removed.

Larry

DSC00136.jpg
 
Very helpful! that helps, The only thing I am not clear on is what is the short silver rod with a hole in it(next to the longer main shaft) and where does it fit in the assembly.
 








 
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