Does anyone have a good, clear, high-pixel image of the HC wiring diagram?
Close
Login to Your Account
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    22
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default Does anyone have a good, clear, high-pixel image of the HC wiring diagram?

    hardinge-power-cabinet.jpgwiring440v.jpg

    I purchased a Hardinge HC 'Chucker' last week, it did not have any manuals, or wiring schematics.
    I searched this site, as well as a Google search for 'Hardinge HC wiring' I found several threads here on PM discussing the HC control box and the many relays and transformers.
    My HC has the Hardinge metal information badge on the control-box door. It states that the lathe is 220V, 3phase. And that the control voltage is 120v.
    But when I hooked it up to my RPC-sourced 220v 3ph power, i could not get any relays to close.
    I checked the voltage at the output of the main transformer and found that the control voltage was 59-60v.
    I then searched again, found a photo of the control panel with door open, and i compared the wiring of the transformer.
    I also got some help from fellow PM member Frank, who pointed out that the main transformer was wired for 440V power. So, with my transformer wired for 440V, and with a 220v input it did not produce 120v, but 60v for the control circuitry
    I moved the jumpers on the transformer to make it use 220v and ended up with the correct 120v control voltage.
    The power button now does close the main relay, but I cannot find out why the motor really will not work.

    So; i did find the needed photos, and several partial hand drawn schematics. But the images of the original wiring diagram on this site and found via Google, But the wiring diagram is way, way too small a file, and the image too dark and low-contrast. I've tried everything i can think of to improve and read the image of the original wiring diagram.. Photoshop helped but even with many manipulations of the image, I just cannot read and follow the lines.

    I'm confident that with a good bright readable .pdf of the wiring diagram, i'll be able to follow the circuitry and figure out why the motor drive relay won't close. i can manually close it, and the motor runs/

    So, does anyone have a link to a GOOD image of the HC wiring schematic or diagram?
    I'll be glad to buy a good bright reproduction of an original diagram. I'd prefer to have a paper copy anyway.

    My Hardinge HC is the later version, Here is an image of my control panel.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
    DualValve

    wiring440v.jpg.
    Last edited by DualValve; 04-05-2019 at 09:10 PM. Reason: move thumbnails

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    California, Central Coast
    Posts
    2,710
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2080
    Likes (Received)
    979

    Default

    Usually you change the transformer (like you did) and rewire the motor(s) to correct voltage and change or adjust the motor starter thermal overloads.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Brockton, MA USA
    Posts
    143
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    20

    Default

    I just accidentally erased my long reply and possibly some help for you.
    Short vs:
    I have a 1987 pdf schematic that might be helpful.
    You can email me for a copy
    Thanks
    [email protected]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    22
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default

    Thank you Paul, my email is on the way !

    DualValve

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Rochester, NY USA
    Posts
    2,117
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    9
    Likes (Received)
    481

    Default

    Before proceeding I would open the junction box on the spindle motor and count motor leads
    18 leads means the motor is dual voltage, 6 leads means single voltage.

    The nameplate on the door has the electrical drawing number.

    There is a row of thermal overloads, one may be tripped, preventing anything from working.
    Also, pull the 2 octal based relays on the right side of your panel. This will prevent the speed control from functioning till the phase rotation is correct.

    Be sure that the wild leg is not powering the transformer.

    Bill

    I have a thread dealing with speed control issues: Hardinge HC spindle variable speed won't change speed troubleshooting info

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    22
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default

    Hello Bill, your troubleshooting thread is one that found and read through several times.
    The image of an original schematic sheet in your thread is one that I just cannot read. I'd really like to have that schematic on my desk, a bright light and a magnifying glass.

    I found the problem causing the motor relay not closing; the spindle lock pin was pulled out too far, i had to hunt for the 'sweet-spot' that kept the interlock switch closed. Once i found the right spot, I was able to run the lathe.

    I then removed the rear door, and opened the junction box on the spindle motor, and it is a single voltage motor. Oddly, it has had the original voltage and amperage numbers on the motor plate ground down and over-stamped with 440v and the new amp draws. But it still only has 6 wires in the junction box.

    I'm picking up another Hardinge 'parts'slathe next week, hopefully it will have a 220v motor. If not, I have a 220v 3ph, 1740rpm 3hp motor, and I could run it with just the high speed rheostat, giving me roughly 1000-3000rpm. i think that would work ok. but not ideal.

    Thanks for your help.
    Dual Valve

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    22
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default

    I traced the wiring through the cabinet, and finally located the power to the carriage power box.
    I found a pinched wire, right through the insulation for one wire to the carriage drive motor.
    The wire was not cut, or broken. I slid a piece of shrink tube on it, and rerouted the wires to prevent the pinch occurring again.

    I found that the box only gets power when the spindle motor has power. Seems like I'd like to be able to adjust feed rates and directions before the spindle was turning.
    But, with the spindle drive motor running [very slow on 220v, the carriage feed power box did have power and the motor does run the carriage and crossfeed. So that is a relief.

    Next will be getting a 220v spindle motor for it. Hopefully the the 'parts'Lathe I'll pick up this week will have a 220 motor.

    DualValve

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Rochester, NY USA
    Posts
    2,117
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    9
    Likes (Received)
    481

    Default

    The print in my thread is CHB-8220
    What is the print # listed on the nameplate on the electrical panel?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    22
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default

    Hi Bill, it's the same. 8220. I found the serial number today: HC497 B Do you know if the 'B' signifies anything? Any idea what year that serial number would have been manufactured ?
    As I'm cleaning up the exterior, the lathe seems in reasonably good condition, there is some wear in the bed: the carriage does get snug at the tailstock end when the friction stop is set just lightly in the middl of the bd, but it is certainly not going to have much effect on my use of the machine.
    I'm keeping my fingers crossed for the motor in the 'parts-lathe' to be 220v. I think with a 220v 2speed motor my lathe will be very functional for me.. I'm not sure the coolant pump runs, or if the speed control for the spindle works yet, but I'm sure I can fix it if it is ions.

    This lathe was using what I think was a water-based coolant. And the lathe operators never washed, wiped or cleaned the exterior of the lathe. The lathe has at least 4 layers of dried-on coolant residue. Most of the layers resemble thick coffee with cream, one layer is like thin lime jello. Nothing seems to really 'dissolve' the dried coatings. Hot water, various different detergents, cleaners, and a scrub brush, and occasionally a wire brush are slowly getting through the thick veneer. It's sort of like skin peeling after a really bad sunburn. Layer after layer.. The original light-gray paint is in reasonably good condition, preserved to some extent under the coolant residue.
    I eventually used a power-washer to get the motor mounts, and inside cleaned out, it looks great without all that glop on everything.
    I did find under several layers an orange sticker: 440V But it was completely obscured by the multiple layers of opaque dried coolant.

    A bonus: there were a few tools for the turret in the right side cabinet, and a few collets for the spindle.

    Hopefully I'll find my 'parts lathe' has a 220v motor. If not, there are other options.

    I want to thank everyone for their help and assistance so far.
    Last edited by DualValve; 04-08-2019 at 10:08 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Rochester, NY USA
    Posts
    2,117
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    9
    Likes (Received)
    481

    Default

    The revision is the letter after the CH, mine is a B, older is the A and newer is C etc.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    22
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default

    hardingechucker.jpgdv-59.jpgAn update on my pursuit of getting my HC running and operational:
    Last week, I picked up what I thought was a very poor condition Hardinge lathe for 'Parts'. I intended to use the motor from this 'parts' lathe in the HC.
    The lathe I picked up is a DSM-59, in rusty but otherwise pretty good contain. While this lathe is 220v, the motor is smaller than the one in the HC, so I won't be parting out the DSM. This DSM will be returned to working condition.
    Along with the DSM, I was able to acquire a 220v-440v 3ph transformer. I returned the wiring in the HC's cabinet to run on 440v. With the transformer hooked up, the Hardinge HC starts and runs very well. It's quiet, the speed controls work well, as does the carriage/cross-slide feed motor.

    DualValve
    Last edited by DualValve; 04-16-2019 at 11:48 PM.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •