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First Bridgeport, No Tooling, No experience, what do I need to get started?

B

bikesandcars

Plastic
Joined
Mar 14, 2021
I had the opportunity to purchase a well used but operating Bridgeport 1hp Step-pulley with nothing but the mill. I saw it run but the owner kept all the goodies.

I've ordered a 1hp VFD to get it going.

It needs some minor repairs like a new adjusting worm shaft for the quill housing. I found / ordered from H&W for that along with some books.

I ordered a few T-nuts so I can clamp down the quill holder that came with it and make the repair.

I figured the lower priced TECO hold down kit will come in handy so I ordered that from Amazon. .


What do you folks suggest as a minimum tooling to learn and use around the shop for easy fabrication / repairs? I need to start somewhere.

I figured after researching around something like this:
  1. Decent Micrometer set (brands?)
  2. Decent Vise (Kurt, others?)
  3. Machining tools (end mills, etc)(What to get?)
  4. Collets to hold tools. (I don't need a set right?)
  5. Drill chuck (brand?)


I bought this on a whim because I always wanted one and it crossed in front of me. I had a chi-com mini lathe-mill combo a few years ago but sold it in a move, I found all sorts of uses for it and it made me hungry for the real thing. I have no immediate projects I need it for. I know projects will find it :). Primary uses would be auto repair / restoration, equipment repair, creative projects.

Thanks for any help!
 
bikesandcars said:
I had the opportunity to purchase a well used but operating Bridgeport 1hp Step-pulley with nothing but the mill. I saw it run but the owner kept all the goodies.

I've ordered a 1hp VFD to get it going.

It needs some minor repairs like a new adjusting worm shaft for the quill housing. I found / ordered from H&W for that along with some books.

I ordered a few T-nuts so I can clamp down the quill holder that came with it and make the repair.

I figured the lower priced TECO hold down kit will come in handy so I ordered that from Amazon. .


What do you folks suggest as a minimum tooling to learn and use around the shop for easy fabrication / repairs? I need to start somewhere.

I figured after researching around something like this:
  1. Decent Micrometer set (brands?)
  2. Decent Vise (Kurt, others?)
  3. Machining tools (end mills, etc)(What to get?)
  4. Collets to hold tools. (I don't need a set right?)
  5. Drill chuck (brand?)


I bought this on a whim because I always wanted one and it crossed in front of me. I had a chi-com mini lathe-mill combo a few years ago but sold it in a move, I found all sorts of uses for it and it made me hungry for the real thing. I have no immediate projects I need it for. I know projects will find it :). Primary uses would be auto repair / restoration, equipment repair, creative projects.

Thanks for any help!
Click to expand...

Skip the mics for now, buy a Mitutoyo digital caliper, NOT some hf POS. It will last about forever and not eat battery's. 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4 collets will get you going, I use the hell out of my set by 32nds though. A quality drill chuck never to be used to hold an end mill except when plunging. Get a Kurt vice because if you don't you will eventually replace the POS you got instead with one, why waste the money? You need a set of parallels, an edge finder and a boring bar. Get a some end mills, HSS will be fine, to easy to wreck carbide on a manual mill especially if it is loose and you don't know exactly what you are doing. a set of hi quality drills 1/16 to 1/2 by 32nds. A DRO is a nice addition as well but not required.
 
Good luck OP, I got my first lathe/mill on my join date for this site, I’m still tooling up the basics and getting the garage all organized and together, I’m running conduit and a RPC, the idle motor is outback behind my foundation wall for shrapnel protection, the idler gets hit with what sounds like too much power from my start caps, it’ll flip over if not bolted down!.

I haven’t got to really tool up the mill yet, I’m still tooling my lathe!! Just ordered a 1-1/8 diameter boring bar!

DONT get the China HSS tools from flebay/Amazon they are like glass and shatter, same with the center drills.

China Cemented carbide is not the worst and usually can be used.

Stay away from expensive consumables!

I bought a starrett .0001 last call indicator as my first indicator and broke the lens and dropped it off a shelf pretty much first week!

Get a GOOD quality indicator stand (noga is great!)and get a HF .001 indicator and if you can a good quality .001-.0005 indicator (federal or used starrett) to get used to protecting them and using them correctly.

I use er32 collet holder and collets, I have a 32’s set. My mill uses a BS9 spindle known for holding tooling with a semi permanent hold so I leave the holder in and use the collets.

I don’t have a jacobs chuck yet myself.

Hope you have fun! And remember these machines bite!
 
Your list is pretty good but you are missing end mills and a set of parallels. You can't do much with out those. Whatever size end mills you get dictates what size collets are a must have as end mills are usless unless you can hold them. Along with a full set of parallels, get a small V block so you can grip round stock in your vise. What quality to buy for all this stuff is dictated by how acurate you must work. If you mainly are making brackets for old cars and such, you don't need to split tenths. I find the HF calipers very useful and acurate enough for most of my work, start with a couple of them and later get one of higher quality. Everything depends on your budget. If unlimited buy a Kurt brand vise now. If money is tight see what you can find locally for $100 or so and get a Kurt later. As for the BP itself, I would not want to run one for long without a DRO. They make life so much easier. Also buy new feed nuts for the X and Y lead screws. Nothing will tighten up an old machine like replacing them. My backlash dropped to .007 in the middle and .001 at the ends. When I bought my BP it was .060.
 
I'd add a coaxial indicator to the list, and a clamp like this to attach an indicator when you tram the mill. A piece of plate-glass about a foot square comes in handy for that tramming process, though you'll read about people using big old bearing races. I second the DRO, you'll be much more productive and accurate with one, and they are not difficult to install. Power table feed is very nice too.

I'd look for an Albrecht on eBay, parts available to rebuild them if needed, and they are just so nice. Adjustable parallels are handy too.

Jeff
 
bikesandcars said:
  1. Decent Micrometer set (brands?)
Click to expand...

  1. -- used-but-good B&S, Etalon, Mitutoyo. New? Mitutoyo.

    [*]Decent Vise (Kurt, others?)
    Click to expand...
    -- Gerardi modular, used. Better than Kurt, more flexible in use. "modular" also support fast and easy rebuild. TWO is better than one. Five may be overkill but they fit the shaper as well as the mill.
    [*]Machining tools (end mills, etc)(What to get?)
    Click to expand...
    -- NOT "cheap s**t. Used "regrinds" on Old Line US major-maker cores until you are better at not just snapping them as if they were breadsticks nor softening the edges as if they were burnishers.
    [*]Collets to hold tools. (I don't need a set right?)
    Click to expand...
    -- Skip Are Ate, get an ER-XX set. ER-32 is OK. I use ER 40 and ER 20.

    Those are for drills, usually, taps, maybe. Not for endmills.

    -- "Milling cutter holders" are one size. Because endmills tend to have common SHANK sizes that apply to several different working-OD at the flutes. That is a feature, not a bug. Source your endmills accordingly.

    Side-locks AKA "Weldon" (style) holders have one or a pair of set-screws. The NICE part is that they are not prone to either of cutter push-back, nor cutter pull-out when working hard. Are Ate can do that. And make a meal of the work. That's why I call them "Are Ate".

    "Weldon" (style) by 16th's might be overkill. A set by "eighths" is a fine start. 1/4" increments will do a LOT.

    THEN.. buy EXTRAS of the 3 or 4 sizes you will discover handle 90% of your actual work. It just isn't the same 90% for all users., so can't tell you in advance WHICH you will want duplicates of, only that you will.

    With a few extras, you leave your best general-purpose-problem-solver endmills mounted.

    [*]Drill chuck (brand?)
    Click to expand...
    -- No need.
    -- See ER collets. They hold waaaaaaay better. They have a full one mm collapse range. They do not take up as much SPACE as a drill chuck.

    IF/as/when you find you just MUST have a "drill chuck". The go-to is the Llambrich "Hybrid". Fast like an Albrecht for light work. Tight like a geared-key Jacobs for HARD work. Because it isn't JUST "keyless". It also takes a pin-spanner wrench when need be.
 
Don't cheap out on the vise; it's almost as important as the mill itself. Kurt or similar quality, of which there aren't many. Never hold an end mill in a drill chuck, only drills. You still need one, and again, don't cheap out. Some say Jacobs isn't what it used to be, but they're still good. Get a 1/2" model and put it on a arbor with a 1/2" diameter stub (cut one off to about 7/8" long). That lets you pop it in and out of a 1/2" collet easily. I also have chucks on R8 arbors, but they're bigger pita to use. Depending on what you make, you may also want a smaller chuck that goes down to zero on an arbor. You need parallels and you also need a set of narrow parallels. Make vise stops yourself. Get the right oils to squirt in the various spots. It's very old school, but I like a planer gage for setting depth of cut on some setups. You need edge finders, a 1/2" and a 3/8". Nobody uses the chair type anymore, but if you want the ultimate in accuracy, add one of those too. Ball end mills and a 45 degree end mill will eventually come in handy. Rig up the right rods and indicator to tram the thing, or get one of those dual dial tools. Seems like overkill, but they work well. You'll also need a broom and dustpan!
 
Conrad Hoffman said:
Don't cheap out on the vise; it's almost as important as the mill itself.
Click to expand...

For a newbie on a WORN BirdPort?

The vise is MORE important.. than the mill itself!

Bugger-me-up-Scottie kit number ONE is s**t MOVING in a non "pulldown" vise! See also parallels. As listed. But more than just the one type & height, please? And a dead-blow hammer.

Kurt & copies (Glycern, Shars, even Chicom no-name) have "pull down". Girardi's pull-down can be "switched" on or off with a jaw feature (think plastics and such).

Old BirdPort OEM vises, Old B&S OEM vise, Old K&T OEM vises...do NOT have "pull down".

That lack is EXACTLY what Kurt exploited to become "the Gold Standard" long years ago.. and counting.

Don't get led astray on an eBay "bargain" because of a "famous" name that is NOT "Kurt" or an honest equivalent or better.

And priced accordingly, of course! Kurt's only look pricey until you see what Orange, Chic, Girardi ...and its several "modular" competitors ask!

THEN a Kurt looks like a Helluva deal! And usually is.

:D

Kurt and EXACT clones can also use dirt-common standardized mount swappable jaws.

So go Kurt .. or at least a decent "pull down" style.
 
Thanks everyone, a lot to chew on. Great stuff and appreciate everyone's advise!

Step 1: Get it working (VFD, repairs)
Step 2: Get it trammed / aligned: Need some measurement equipment.
Step 3: Try some minimal machining test, what should that be? What that is defines the first tooling purchase.

I have no problem buying a Kurt or other quality vise if that's what it takes. It's a lot of money for me right now given it's not making me money but I hate buying 2x. Finding used in the short-term is tough, there really aren't any good deals on facebook or ebay right now. I consider a good deal 50% of new for a good condition item. Many I see are beat up. I'd rather pay $600 for a new DX6 than $400 for something I don't know is good. I'd really rather pay $100 for chinese junk and have it be better than Kurt... isn't that always the dream!!!! :)
 
bikesandcars said:
I'd rather pay $600 for a new DX6 than $400 for something I don't know is good.
Click to expand...
Watch for sales and such. Kurts are rebuildable, too.
I'd really rather pay $100 for chinese junk and have it be better than Kurt... isn't that always the dream!!!! :)
Click to expand...

"Dream"?

Why?

I've have been all OVER China. The people are smart, they work HARD, they give a damn.

And are a Helluva lot nicer as basic human beings than government's going head-to-head might lead you to believe.

Annnd nearly ALL of my "family" are in Hong Kong. Ethnically South Chinese.

But.. if/as/when I were to purchase Chinese goods? None of that goes towards our shared US tax - or any OTHER shared US burden or obligation. Or future.

I'd rather buy from a US source, keep a percentage in OUR "system".

Chinese can afford Chinese goods just fine.

Oddly enough? They prefer imported! BIGTIME!
Even at seriously higher prices.

What do they know that we do not know?

Do you REALLY have to even ASK?

"The people are smart, they work HARD, they give a damn."

Was there some part of that you missed?

:D
 
Aside from having " basic tooling"to get started,I think you need to learn how to use the mill safely so you don't break it,loose fingers,eyes,hands,have a wreck or some other catastrophe while using the mill.This is more than just "a big drill press".I imagine you are aware of that(or would like to hope so),but if you don't know how to use the mill safely, you can really,really hurt yourself(you don't get to keep lost fingers/hands,or losing an eyed you will never get back) and/or cause damage to the mill,additional tooling,or due to not knowing the most basic of set-ups...you will scrap allot of parts.You will discover levels of frustration you've never experienced.That's "just me",I'm sure others will have something to say,but I'd suggest starting with safety first and obtaining a good,solid general knowledge of the mill itself and how to properly use it. You'll need the following and others have already listed allot,but here's my 10 cents:

1.Get yourself a good mill vise,not some P.O.S...KURT makes a great vise,expect to spend $$$$ on tooling
2. parallel bar set( Starrett,B&S or Mituoyo would be my suggestion)
3.edge finder (I use Starret,but this is a basic tool/item so a cheap one should be fine)
3. .0005 dial indication w/attachments(Starrett,B&S or Mituoyo would be my suggestion) to use to sweep the head in as well as dial your vice in prior to every use
4.Table clamps for clamping work down directly to the table,the dial indicatior will help you square the part/piece.
5. 6-12 inch dial calipers (Starrett,B&S, or Mituoyo would be my suggestion)
6.1" .0005 micrometer(Starrett,B&S or Mituoyo would be my suggestion)
7. rags&brushes
8. I have no idea what you are making or want to make?An assortment of R8 tooling, basic HSS twist drill sets (fractional,number&letter),basic HSS tap set,HSS endmills,diving head,rotary table...?I hope you are good at MATH
9.Basic tool set of ;open end/box end wrenches,cressent wrenchs,screw drivers,allan head wrenches
10. LEARN basic set-ups and machining procedures/calculations.Dialing your vise in,edge finding,learn how to accurately measure using calipers and micrometers. Practice measuring your twist drills or parallels. I'd practice before even turning the mill on.Practice laying out parts,edge finding to make that part to print tolerances.LEARN SAFETY and how to use the mill SAFELY
 
jpolacchi said:
Aside from having " basic tooling"to get started,I think you need to learn how to use the mill safely so you don't break it,loose fingers,eyes,hands,have a wreck or some other catastrophe while using the mill.This is more than just "a big drill press".I imagine you are aware of that(or would like to hope so),but if you don't know how to use the mill safely, you can really,really hurt yourself(you don't get to keep lost fingers/hands,or losing an eyed you will never get back) and/or cause damage to the mill,additional tooling,or due to not knowing the most basic of set-ups...you will scrap allot of parts.That' and discover levels of frustration you never experienced.That's "just me",I'm sure others will have something to say,but I'd suggest starting with safety first and obtaining a good,solid general knowledge of the mill itself and how to properly use it.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I know what you mean and will make that a priority.

Knowledge / training / learning and especially experience is equally if not more important than the tooling so I'd like to start small / simple and progress.

Since I'm a reasonably busy professional with kids I don't really have time to start over in a machine shop as an apprentice, but maybe there is a local community college course or something I can try and find.

I'm handy with tools and grew up fixing everything I've ever owned, including a stint as a mechanic, so I'm not totally clueless, but like the title goes I'm very inexperienced on a "big" machine like this.
 
I was just going to suggest(not knowing where you are in the world),but take some basic machine shop courses.If you don't have the basics down...you can't really use the mill(in my opinion) for what it was made for.It will just sit there or you'll just use it to drill holes with.With college campus's still closed and enrollments down,I have no idea what is available out there?You might take a peek on Youtube to see if there are any tutorials on "basics" and safety,but nothing really works(for me anyway) than "hands on experience".Watching someone do it on TV or listening to a lecture for 2 hours really doesn't do it for me.I'm not trying to scare you or anything,but safety is first in foremost with a machine like this.
 
bikesandcars said:
Thanks a lot!

May I ask for what? Drilling?


I see that Jacobs is popular, Albrecht is good / expensive, and there's a bunch of cheaper ones. Any comments on what's a good tolerance in a chuck for standard use? (.002?)
Click to expand...

Sucks to run the knee up and down even with a servo on the knee of both my Bridgeport's to switch between an end mill and a drill and chuck. I like to use them for holding drills as the length is closer to an end mill. Since Jacobs is chinese now I don't know what is best now days, try to find an old one on fleebay maybe. Albrecht is fine for drilling but you can't back a tap out, I have 2 but don't use them much
 
bikesandcars said:
Just a little sarcasm, i mean who wouldn't want a quality $100 vise? Glad I could contribute to a good rant and I DO appreciate all of your suggestions :)
Click to expand...

Sarcasm? Whyso?

I bought FIVE used but near-as-dammit perfect (one needed minor parts) save for mild coolant pest ... nominal 6" Gerardi Modulars for an even $1,000, US.

$200 each?

They do NOT have to "salute" a Kurt, either!

GERARDI - Presentazione morse STD - YouTube
 
moonlight machine said:
Sucks to run the knee up and down even with a servo on the knee of both my Bridgeport's to switch between an end mill and a drill and chuck. I like to use them for holding drills as the length is closer to an end mill. Since Jacobs is chinese now I don't know what is best now days, try to find an old one on fleebay maybe. Albrecht is fine for drilling but you can't back a tap out, I have 2 but don't use them much
Click to expand...

No idea what the "new management" has done to PDQ-Marlin besides f**k-up a once VERY useful and helpful website, for a curiously obtuse one, but..

.. "I got mine" in VS (on #9 B&S) and "S" (on 40-taper).

The VS needs as little as one half of one inch drop to swap tool.

That much is nearly always "already there" off the quill alone..
 
thermite said:
No idea what the "new management" has done to PDQ-Marlin besides f**k-up a once VERY useful and helpful website, for a curiously obtuse one, but..

.. "I got mine" in VS (on #9 B&S) and "S" (on 40-taper).

The VS needs as little as one half of one inch drop to swap tool.

That much is nearly always "already there" off the quill alone..
Click to expand...

Well if you are stuck with an r8 you don't have that luxury.
 
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