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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    Be sure to lower the table before trying to rotate the head, that way if you loose grip on it it will not crash into the table. Probably 4 bolts on the front to loosen to rotate it.
    Ok. You are all suggesting the table lower and rotate head down which makes good sense. From what I have seen in videos (so far), they also drive the Y-axis table all the way to the column to keep the COG towards the middle. Also looks like a lifting lug is often used on the middle of the ram.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    B port vice will work for now. You want a Kurt. DRO is prehistoric, but if it works you are good to go. Servo X axis feed is better than a BP feed. about a grand new now days. Hard to go wrong on that one.
    I hear that: the Kurt will be on my future list for sure. Yes, DRO seems prehistoric but booted up quick, display is clear and readings seem repeatable and precise. I hope the feed works, I will check tomorrow when I go in to measure for moving. Thank you!

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    That big vise can come off for transport. I like to plastic wrap a machine to keep road grit out and any loose parts from being lost. You can often hire a tow truck to lift a machine off a trailer. lifting only straight up and straight down.. Not good to travel a machine much with the lifter.
    With having any doubts hire a rigger to move it.
    Local auction shop or machine shop will know a rigger.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Engmaxx View Post
    Ok. You are all suggesting the table lower and rotate head down which makes good sense. From what I have seen in videos (so far), they also drive the Y-axis table all the way to the column to keep the COG towards the middle. Also looks like a lifting lug is often used on the middle of the ram.
    How are you planning to move it? Pipe rollers and ramp trailer or forklift at both ends of your move? Or?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Engmaxx View Post
    Awesome. I just committed to it! Now to move it!
    I rented a drop bed trailer for a day. $25. You can roll it on pipes but I used a dolly with a wheel on each end. The bar of metal looked like this: |_______|, with each upright end having a wheel. The height of the dolly is just right, barely off the floor. Then just use a crowbar to slide the dolly underneath the mill to the center of gravity. Moves quite easily. I think it helped to have some scrap pieces of wood when raising the mill.

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    Thank you everyone for the good suggestions for the move. Still feel nervous about it but I will figure it out thanks to your suggestions. I will keep you all posted!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    Yes RPC = Rotary Phase Converter and I would also say 1900-2000 lbs on the weight.
    You should lower the table all the way down and you can also rotate the head upside down to lower the center of gravity, this also will make it fit under low openings. Many threads here about moving bridgeports, lots of good reading.
    Dont be the guy that says I tipped it over, now what do I do to fix it?
    Careful on the table, not sure if Bridgeport, or the clones, but I have had one actually come off the screw! PITA to fix with a couple guys, not to mention a noob* at home by himself.

    * no offense intended

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1974 View Post
    Careful on the table, not sure if Bridgeport, or the clones, but I have had one actually come off the screw! PITA to fix with a couple guys, not to mention a noob* at home by himself.

    * no offense intended
    None taken. I tend to over-think things so I will be extra careful about it. Thank you!

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  10. #29
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    I should have mentioned to lower the table down onto a block of wood like a 4x4 piece layed flat behind the screw. This will take the weight of the table during transport instead of the screw, also be sure to tighten all the table locks so nothing is loose.

  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    I should have mentioned to lower the table down onto a block of wood like a 4x4 piece layed flat behind the screw. This will take the weight of the table during transport instead of the screw, also be sure to tighten all the table locks so nothing is loose.
    That block of wood is smart, I will definitely do that. For sure I will tighten all locks. Thank you Rob!

  12. #31
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    That machine is probably 70 years old. It has the grease fittings and if they were greased I suspect the ways are scratched as chips stick to the grease like glue. Also I suspect the way wipers are original...lol...take a .002" feeler gage and try to slide under them. You should be able to see some scraping or 1/2 moon flaking at the ends of the top of knee and column. The top of table should also have 1/2 moon flaking on it. What does that little red sign say? It's a good deal, even if the ways are not as good as you think.

    Also most of the time I turn the head 180 degree's and wood block under it between table. That lowers the center of gravity. There is a 1/2 - 13 hole in the top of the ram where you can put in a forged eye bolt to pick it up with. Also can lift and check center of gravity and if it's off set it down and adjust the saddle or ram so it picks level. O strap under each side of the column under the ram.

  13. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard King View Post
    That machine is probably 70 years old. It has the grease fittings and if they were greased I suspect the ways are scratched as chips stick to the grease like glue. Also I suspect the way wipers are original...lol...take a .002" feeler gage and try to slide under them. You should be able to see some scraping or 1/2 moon flaking at the ends of the top of knee and column. The top of table should also have 1/2 moon flaking on it. What does that little red sign say? It's a good deal, even if the ways are not as good as you think.

    Also most of the time I turn the head 180 degree's and wood block under it between table. That lowers the center of gravity. There is a 1/2 - 13 hole in the top of the ram where you can put in a forged eye bolt to pick it up with. Also can lift and check center of gravity and if it's off set it down and adjust the saddle or ram so it picks level. O strap under each side of the column under the ram.
    I will check the ways once I have it at my place. I may turn the head horizontal or a full 180 depending on clearance and balance. Just what I needed: thread size of the lifting bolt hole! Thank you!

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    We had a fellow here on PN who used harbor frightening car dollies and one wheel broke, so he tipped over his lathe and broke some hand wheels. Don't be that guy. Pinch bar moves a small machine as do small pipes perhaps 1" dia.. Still, don't roll going fast or you can hit a seam on the floor and tip a BP by hand.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Engmaxx View Post
    I will check the ways once I have it at my place. I may turn the head horizontal or a full 180 depending on clearance and balance. Just what I needed: thread size of the lifting bolt hole! Thank you!
    My bridgeport is not quite as old (early 70's) and it has 5/8-11 threaded hole, Maybe bring both sizes?

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  17. #35
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    Rotating the head to lower the center of gravity is a good idea, just be careful while doing it because once it gets past about 45 deg., gravity becomes your enemy. Also, I'm not a fan of lifting the machine with the eye bolt in the top of the ram. I prefer to use two nylon lifting straps. Loop one under the ram in front of the column and one under the ram behind the column. Just my two cents.

    Ted

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    We always pick it up under the ram. +1 to all the recommendations of bringing the table to the column and rotating the head underneath with a 4x4 wood between the head and table. When we ship Bridgeports, that is how they go out.

    Jon
    H&W Machine Repair

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  21. #37
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    One thing to be sure you loose the 4 clamping T Nut Shafts (leave nuts on) and when you crank the head around (3/4" socket/Ratchet) you have someone or you be sure to hold up on the weight of the head when it is about 45 to 75 degree's as many times the woodruff key in the gear pinion or the rack pinion will brake from the weight of the head. The 4 x 4 is a great idea. Be sure as we said before to lock them. A couple of red rags under the 4 x 4 is good too as oil will drain from the head.

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  23. #38
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    What motor is on it? My Bridgeport has the 575V 3 phase and I simply used a transformer to boost 240 to 575 then cheap used VFD to run the motor. Was beating on it fairly hard again this aft without issue. Check some of the electrical shops in your area for VFD's as they often upgrade plants.

  24. #39
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    I've moved a number of them with an engine hoist (cherry picker). In fact, I just moved mine from one end of the shop to the other this week. Although my hoist will (barely) lift the whole machine, I only raise it about an inch, and it is nearly impossible to roll. So- I remove the ram and head assembly. I nod the head all the way up, wrap a sling around it, and remove the four ram turntable bolts. You may have to move the ram forward or back to get it to hang level. Move the head/ram assembly out of the way. On the base, drop the table all the way down. Wrap a sling under it, and pick it up with the hoist. Again, you may have to move the saddle in/out to achieve a balance. With the head/ram off of it, the machine isn't nearly as top-heavy, and that's the way I carry it on a trailer. Of course, if there's a forklift available, just pick it up under the ram and go. Either way, make sure it's VERY well secured on the trailer. Often, the best solution is to just call a rigger and be done with it.

  25. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    My bridgeport is not quite as old (early 70's) and it has 5/8-11 threaded hole, Maybe bring both sizes?
    Yes to this -- I have a 1958 and a 198x BPort in the shop, and they are different, one is 5/8 and the other is 1/2, but I don't recall which is which;-)


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