Hardainge HLV. Basket Case?

alcro1998 · Dec 7, 2020

So like many people, I have dreamed on one day owning a Hlv/hlv-h and have been scouring the internet trying to find a good deal on one. I came across one that is about 6 hours away from me that appears to be a good deal but I am not sure and would like some advice. It is not in great looking condition but I would like to restore it as I enjoy restoring machines. What I don't want to do is have to spend a bunch of money getting the bed ground or replacing the spindle bearings. It is also missing the collet closer for some reason...

The lathe sat for 7 years and outside for the last year. The seller says that the lathe is tight and the bearings are good but I don't think he knows enough about lathes to make that claim. He said his friend used it but it was removed from service when his buddy was done with the work. It also is not under power but he claims it runs fine.

The price I would pay would be 500-750 max. Thanks for the help!

Milland · Dec 7, 2020

Keep looking unless you want to spend 5-10 times what you've paid for it to make it right. A year outside is enough for serious rust to start, including in enclosed areas tough to see. The electrical stuff can be seriously compromised too.

Perhaps I'd take it if it was under $250, just as a gamble. You have to decide if even the drive time is worth it.

dkmc · Dec 7, 2020

Ironically, the longer machine tools sit outside, the "tighter" they get... :rolleyes5:

L Vanice · Dec 7, 2020

That is a 1950-1955 Hardinge HLV. The HLV-H was introduced in 1960 and had many improvements, plus the advantage that parts are more available.

It is not worth much as is and not worth a whole lot more if fixed up some.

Seems like two other people have recently posted questions on PM about that same or a similar lathe. As I recall, no one told the OP that he should run right out and buy the one he was considering. I lokoed it up and see it was you who posted an old HLV question last month. Hardinge HLV-H as first lathe - What to look for

Larry

Conrad Hoffman · Dec 7, 2020

I'm guessing there'll be water and rust in places you didn't even know existed. OTOH, if you have more time than money, for a few hundred bucks it might be worth a gamble. As always, the question is, do you want to make parts or do you want a big project to keep you off the streets and out of the bars?

Jim S. · Dec 8, 2020

I bought an early 50s HLV in similar condition a number of years ago, knowing it was a gamble. Mine turned out OK. A good bit of time to go through it but very little money on parts. In the end, I was fortunate that all the electrics worked and there very few surprises of hidden wear or rust damage. It would benefit from a bed grinding but I can still do very accurate work.
The lathe in question has a manual speed change mechanism which somewhat simplifies the electrics.
If you go for it and it turns sour, you should be able to easily recover your investment by parting it out. The six jaw chuck alone would be valuable.
PM me if desired for more details on my experience.

rons · Dec 8, 2020

I usually post this when a HLV in that shape appears here. If he can do it why not you. You don't have to go the full nine yards. Get it working first and then clean it up as you go.

Rebuilding a Hardinge HLV Toolroom Lathe

(Let rust be your friend. Don't hate it. Just say hello, then a firm goodbye to the mutha fucha).

jim rozen · Dec 8, 2020

1) the bed will probably need to be replaced. HLVH (wide) beds can be purchased. Not sure about narrow HLV beds though.

2) the spindle bearings may be useable. Plan on replacing them.

3) for the condition the price is about ballpark. Less than 500, definitely. More than 1k, no.

rons · Dec 8, 2020

Narrow beds? you can forget about it.

The bearings can be flushed out and new grease palmed in. I did it.

The old water coolants used in that lathe's time period would be enough to ruin machine metal.
Look at some before/after pictures from a rebuilder.

Richard King · Dec 8, 2020

I would also look inside the electrical panel too and if it's a mouse home forget it. If not, offer him $100 and whine about all the possibilities of things being screwed up. Id buy it for that.

jim rozen · Dec 8, 2020

rons said:
...
The bearings can be flushed out and new grease palmed in.
....

These machines use at least one angular contact pair, and over time the bearings can wear enough that the preload built into the pair can simply go away, to the point where they have over a thou of axial play. No amount of grease is going to help a set like that. I speak from experience on this matter....

The money cost of re-doing this machine is large enough that a new set of bearings in nearly down in the noise.

dkmc · Dec 8, 2020

From what I remember water soluble coolant was never permitted on any Hardinge manual machine tools. Specific decals stating "Oil based cutting fluids only" were abundant. I remember those and the other metal decals in the stock room. Some sort of chrome backed high quality foil.

rons said:
The old water coolants used in that lathe's time period would be enough to ruin machine metal.
Look at some before/after pictures from a rebuilder.

alcro1998 · Dec 8, 2020

Thank you everyone for the replies! I am going to pass on it since I don't want a money pit. If it was close to me I would go check it out but a 6 hour drive is too much. I think I am trying to make a good deal out of something that is not there. I will keep searching for the right machine!

thermite · Dec 8, 2020

alcro1998 said:
I think I am trying to make a good deal out of something that is not there.

WTF? I thot we were SUPPOSED TO doo that?

REALIZING that ... and ADMITTIING it?

What?

Are you some kinda freakin' anarchist?

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Hardainge HLV. Basket Case?

alcro1998

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Milland

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L Vanice

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Conrad Hoffman

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Jim S.

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rons

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jim rozen

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rons

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jim rozen

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dkmc

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alcro1998

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