Hardinge HLV - Blown motor? Bad wiring! Help please.

Hi All.

I am a relatively new HLV owner. I think it's a '63 model.

I had it hard wired into a wall box, but this was changed to sockets to allow for extra machinery.

I'm not sure what happened, but I paid no attention when wiring the socket and all the wires were mixed up.

What ended up going to the lathe:
L1 - L1
L2 - N
L3 - L2
N - L3

I thought something was wrong but all my troubleshooting came up clear (the only thing I failed to do was check the actual socket wiring).

I ran the lathe and I couldn't tell if it was sounding funny or not, and it had very low torque.
Within three minutes the motor stopped with a bang and a bad smell came from its general area.

Fuses F4 and F5 went in the control panel.

F5 was fitted with a 6amp fuse, but the label tied off above it said max 2 amp.

I replaced the fuses and corrected the socket wiring.

The spindle start button operates the contactor, but as soon as I engage the low speed lever, the fuse blows in F4.

When I rotate the motor from the spindle it squeaks.

What have I done?!

I couldn't face removing the motor but I assume I will need to take it to be rebuilt/repaired.

Will I have damaged anything else?

I couldn't tell if the speed selector unit in the electronic control panel smelt bad or not.

Any help/commiserations appreciated.

Don't rub it in too much though, I was very stupid and am both embarrassed and sad!

Pictures attached.

Bad things happen but keep a good attitude and work through it.

You had a hot (L3) on Hardinge Nuetral.

Nuetral was tied to Hardinge L3

The control circuit is likely powered from one of the L's and to N (Nuetral)

Find out if the Nuetral line in the wall box is connected to the non current carrying ground.

Keep the power off while you troubleshoot

Disconnect the wires from the motor

Discover where the control circuits are powered

Do a megger test on the motor

Then with your information go to next level

I would hope you have a wiring diagram and don't do power on testing unless you are assisting an electrician as they do it.

Ouch, I would start by disconnecting the electric, and going through the panel with a meter and make sure all relays/controls are in working order

Pathogen said:

Do a megger test on the motor

Click to expand...

That would be at the top of my list. Usually, only done by motor shops. You can check everything else while the motor is being tested. If the motor windings are cooked, consider it an expensive lesson. We all have them, it's just a matter of degree.
JR

Thanks All.
Just got back from motor engineers who tested the motor and it's all working.
They suggested the low/high speed control switch could be the problem.

I'm fairly confused by the wiring even though it's so nicely laid out.

Dweed144 said:

I'm fairly confused

Click to expand...

Me too!
JR

So did the motor squeak when it was out of the machine and you spun the shaft?


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Solved!

So, what had blown was the brake solenoid and the brake switch.

Hence the smell of smoke from the motor cabinet and the clunk noise from that area.

I've removed the solenoid and I imagine I will have to get it rewound rather than replacing?

The squeaking was the belt/brake pad rather than the motor itself.

In the process of this I also replaced the selenium rectifiers with new bridge rectifiers from RS and the carriage motor is now operational.

Lucky I didn't blow the motor windings as the motor engineer said that a rebuild would be in the region of £1200!