Hardinge HLV-H Apron Disassembly - Lead Screw Handle Taper Pin

S

Smrtman5

Cast Iron

Joined

Apr 15, 2011

Location

NJ, USA

• Apr 11, 2018

• #1

Having a bit of trouble taking out the taper pin from the lead screw handle lever. Want to make sure I am hitting it the correct direction.

Maintenance manual pg 35, figure 110, pin J.

Should I be hitting it when the lever is in the down position as shown? or from the other side?

 

Jersey John

Stainless

Joined

May 29, 2015

Location

Beccles / Suffolk, United Kingdom

• Apr 11, 2018

• #2

I'm totally in agreement with car2. just dis-assembled my apron two weeks ago to replace my carriage pinion.

I found that cleaning the pin at both ends carefully it was clear which end was the small end of the taper.

Looking at my handle, it needs to be horizontal and then drive the pin out from the TOP with a BIG hammer.

HTH

John

 

S

Smrtman5

Cast Iron

Joined

Apr 15, 2011

Location

NJ, USA

• Apr 11, 2018

• #3

Thank you both! That was indeed it. You gave me the confidence to hit it with a more firm whack hahah. Good tip about the nail set too, my punch was dancing all over the place.

Now the task of cleaning things up. Did you happen to measure the thickness of the clutch pads while the apron was apart? I think mine are ok, but while its apart, I figured I would ask.

 

Jersey John

Stainless

Joined

May 29, 2015

Location

Beccles / Suffolk, United Kingdom

• Apr 11, 2018

• #4

Certainly I didn't check the clutch's I simply replaced the pinion and needle bearing. I felt there was no need to ...

Why are you taking the apron apart anyway??

John

 

S

Smrtman5

Cast Iron

Joined

Apr 15, 2011

Location

NJ, USA

• Apr 11, 2018

• #5

One of the clutch levers was jammed with rust, such that it didnt properly actuate. I figured things were half way apart and there would be more rust where that came from, so I went for it. (There was indeed more rust, so Im glad I did.) Its all apart on the bench now. Time for cleaning.

 

Jersey John

Stainless

Joined

May 29, 2015

Location

Beccles / Suffolk, United Kingdom

• Apr 11, 2018

• #6

Glad to hear you're clearing the rust ... just make sure you make a good seal when you re-assemble the apron front face

John

 

M

Mark Rand

Diamond

Joined

Jul 9, 2007

Location

UK Rugby Warwickshire

• Apr 11, 2018

• #7

Jersey John said:

just make sure you make a good seal when you re-assemble the apron front face

John

Click to expand...

Yes! I've still got a slight leak on the apron of my rebuilt 1952 HLV. When I get a round-tuit, I intend to take the front off the apron again and blue the two mating faces up to work out where the problem is. In the meantime, I have an oil can full of ATF for use as needed.

 

S

Smrtman5

Cast Iron

Joined

Apr 15, 2011

Location

NJ, USA

• Apr 11, 2018

• #8

That sounds about right. It'll probably happen that I will clean everything off put it carefully back together, fill 'er up and find a drip about an hour later, then be internally frustrated for months. Or, it wont leak at all and I'll notice a gear still on the bench.

Ever the optimist I am

I also ended up finding a cracked bearing with the cage disintegrated (#20 Clutch Bearing) I am hoping I can find a local replacement so I dont have to wait for shipping lol. Gonna make some calls in the morning.

 

S

Smrtman5

Cast Iron

Joined

Apr 15, 2011

Location

NJ, USA

• Apr 18, 2018

• #9

I was able to find some of the bearings locally, had to order one of the other ones. It is all back together and working much happier now that there is less crud in the gearbox and in the clutch. Everything else looked good, so lets hope its smooth sailing for a while.