Hardinge HLV-H Lathe Electrical Panel Troubleshooting

Does an electrical schematic/diagram exist with voltage, amps, or ohms values at connection endpoints in the panel? I feel like that would make basic troubleshooting much easier. But all my searching thus far has hit dead ends. Also, I'd appreciate any input/help on the following:

I just got this Hardinge HLV-H lathe, which was advertised as working in good condition under 220VAC power. So, I plugged it in to an existing 3-phase 220VAC outlet that other lathes use (first I verified that the 1T Control Circuit Transformer was wired for 220 and not 440), and pressing the start button only made a buzzing sound. The spindle interlock was pulled out, but I soon realized that it can be too far pulled out and not allow the spindle interlock contactor to energize. After pushing it in slightly and then pushing the start button it now energized the interlock contactor, but still the lathe doesn't start. If I then manually push the main line contactor in, the lathe starts up. This same issue seems to be the case with other stuff that should energize when using the controls, like the brake solenoid, coolant pump, or speed controls. If I manually push the contactors or relays, stuff works, and then the controls do work to disengage/turn off things. My first thought was there wasn't the appropriate secondary voltage from the control circuit transformer. I get a voltage reading of 168V, and the transformer plate says it should be 115V.

Any advice on what to check or do next would be appreciated!

Check all the overload switches. There is one for each motor . Each has a small lever/button to reset it.

Check the spindle reverse switch , make sure your 3ph in connected so forward is forward (the jack screw can get seriously jammed if you get it wrong)

Don't worry about the volts until it's working under load.

Thanks for your reply. I did make sure the OLs were ok, but again everything operates fine when i manually push the relays or contactors, where if the OL relays were tripped, that wouldn't be so. It's only when I try to use the controls (i.e. buttons, switches) that it doesn't work. For example: I get the lathe started by pushing the main contactor in (then the stop button works), then I can change speed slower/faster, by manually pushing the appropriate contactors. When the lathe starts, I have to manually push the brake relay so the brake will disengage, but then i can reapply the brake by using the switch on control panel to apply break. I can turn on the coolant pump by manually pushing the relay, and then I can use the control switch to turn off the pump. After the lathe starts, and is rotating forward, if I manually push the reverse contactor, the lathe spins in reverse, then i can use the switch on front to make it go forward again.

I can have it working under load, as long as I manually push the relays/contactors. Hope I'm explaining well enough? Basically controls all work to disengage/de-energize, etc, but not initially engage/energize, etc..

jonnydac said:

My first thought was there wasn't the appropriate secondary voltage from the control circuit transformer. I get a voltage reading of 168V, and the transformer plate says it should be 115V.

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That is where I would start. That is the voltage for all your push button controls.
Disconnect all control transformer loads and then take a reading to see if it's 115v. Maybe add one load at a time during testing.

Thank you for your reply, I will definitely try that and report back here.

Thanks.

What is the drawing number for your machine?
This info should be on the nameplate on the panel door.

I will be seeing a customer that has 2 of these, I may drive down and take some tooling he is needing and borrow the appropriate drawing from him.

Do you have the proper electrical drawing?

Is this running from power company 3 phase? Or a phase converter?

Bill

hitandmiss said:

Do you have the proper electrical drawing?
Bill

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The drawings are always in the steel pocket inside the electrical enclosure door on the left hand side of the machine.
It is my firm belief that the *very* first thing a person would do, upon purchasing a brand new HLVH is to:

1) open up that door.
2) take out the drawing.
3) get incredibly drunk on shop alcohol
4) start a huge bonfire in the parking lot.
5) throw the drawing in the fire and
6) have all shop personel circle the bonfire and utter ritual chants to the hardinge god.
7) use the machine for years, have some problem, open up the door and utter the magic words:

"Where the heck did the electrical drawing go??"

@hitandmiss , Thanks for your reply. I’m not at the shop this weekend, but when I return I will check on these questions. I have the drawings that were in the panel door, but I,m looking for something that tells me what voltages, etc. to expect at each termination.

I’m pretty sure it’s plugged in to a Torq pack, so prob a phase converter? Will verify this too.

I did read somewhere that if the phase was manufactured from a converter that maybe the controls circuit transformer could need to be wired diff. Is this maybe what you were thinking?

jim rozen said:

It is my firm belief that the *very* first thing a person would do, upon purchasing a brand new HLVH is to:
.....
5) throw the drawing in the fire

Click to expand...

My sentiments exactly!

jonnydac said:

My first thought was there wasn't the appropriate secondary voltage from the control circuit transformer. I get a voltage reading of 168V, and the transformer plate says it should be 115V.

Click to expand...

115V would mean 115vac. RMS value = .707 Peak value. Peak value = 1.414 * 115 = 162.

jonnydac said:

I’m pretty sure it’s plugged in to a Torq pack, so prob a phase converter? Will verify this too.

I did read somewhere that if the phase was manufactured from a converter that maybe the controls circuit transformer could need to be wired diff. Is this maybe what you were thinking?

Click to expand...

Typically, you can not use the generated leg from an RPC to operate the control circuit. If that is how it is wired just swap the control leg to one of the non-generated legs. And, of course, if rotation is incorrect after making the change, just swap two legs.

Ted

What is the drawing number of what you have, I will attempt to get a copy and walk you through it.
What is your meter brand and P/N.

Bill

Thanks all that replied. The issue was indeed the manufactured phase from the converter being wired to the control circuit. Once I switched this, all seems to be working now!

Thanks again.