Hardinge lathe front set screw dial locking design

Does anyone have a diagram or video showing the details of the front locking assembly to zero and lock the crossfeed dial? (as opposed to the common set screw on the face of the dial).

Your question is unclear to me. There is no cross-slide lock for the HLV-H at all. There used to be a fella that made and sold such a lock on ebay - I haven't seen it for a while. The dial system uses a screw with a knurled knob on the end to adjust the "drag" between the dial and the actual cross-slide shaft. Inside the bore that the knurled screw enters is a nylon plug. The screw never actually makes contact with the inner drum. All the screw does is sets the preload or drag.The nylon pellet is the actual interface/contact point between the dial and the shaft. I hope that makes sense. I could probably find a picture if I searched long enough. BTW, Hardinge doesn't know what a "common setscrew" is. Even when they use setscrews, it is very common for them to have a locking setscrew on top of it. Sometimes the locking screw has a whole through it, and sometimes they don't. If you get a part number and price that screw with the knurled knob, you'll know what I mean. The part number for the nylon pellet is U 0010245 and Hardinge will sell it to you for $27 plus tax & shipping. Here's a link to that part in the "Candy Store": ShopHardinge - U 0010245

I have many sizes of round hollow punches, mostly used for cutting holes in gaskets or leather. One of them is just right to make that tiny dot of thin plastic for the dial lock. I used a plastic (maybe Delrin) washer from a plumbing thing for material and it worked fine. I had no idea how much money I saved by not getting it from Hardinge.

Larry

It's a DIAL lock not a cross slide lock. Most dials are locked via a thumb screw on top that radially applies friction to the crossfeed shaft. This interferes with readability of the graduations which is why I want it on the front of the dial mechanism. I did see a video of one but cannot find it now, as I remember , it consisted of a cam and wedge shaped 1/2 moon piece inside the dial.

L Vanice said:

I have many sizes of round hollow punches, mostly used for cutting holes in gaskets or leather. One of them is just right to make that tiny dot of thin plastic for the dial lock. I used a plastic (maybe Delrin) washer from a plumbing thing for material and it worked fine. I had no idea how much money I saved by not getting it from Hardinge.

Larry

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I get out my inspection x10 lens and turn a small coin of white HDPE. Works good.

martik777 said:

Does anyone have a diagram or video showing the details of the front locking assembly to zero and lock the crossfeed dial? (as opposed to the common set screw on the face of the dial).

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If you are referring to a problem I continually have. Getting that front nut on the dial cover just right so that the shaft is locked to the dial. That is, when the crank
on the outside end of the shaft is turned, there is no loss of motion to the dial. It turns smoothly. I wish I knew the trick. When I fiddle with it and it eventually
works correctly, I just leave it alone. This happens on both dials. Before adjustment a good cleaning operation should be done. Can't hurt and has appeared to make my
progress in the guess work go faster.