Beware of non-Hardinge plates, as they often program the taper and recess as one continuous cut, which leaves a slight hump from machine backlash and it rattles on the spindle nose. Doing the recess first and then one pass to finish the taper makes it fit the nose better. If you have a turning center that will handle it, it's not a particularly challenging job. We once modified (butchered might be a better word) a Hardinge DSM-59 to pass 1-1/2 Ø material and had to mount an 8-inch chuck. Forget buying something like that, you have to make it. Also, if you make it for minimum overhang, the drive set-screw hole has to come thru the flange.
The best chucks for Hardinge lathes are direct mount without a separate backplate.