HLV Turning Tapered Shaft
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  1. #1
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    Default HLV Turning Tapered Shaft

    I’m working on turning 9 1/2” long shaft. It made out of 416 stainless steel. It starts 5/8” and tapers to 3/8”, the 5/8” portion is just under 2” in length and bored to 3/8”. Using HLV and I don’t have a follow rest, I look on eBay and they have a couple of Hardinge follow rest. Any suggestions on turning my part? It a part I will making repetitively, so I don’t mind making a dedicated fixture.

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    I'd turn and taper it between centers with the taper-attachment, then hold it in a chuck or collet on the 5/8 end for drilling/boring (or vice versa).

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    If you don't have a taper attachment, you will need to turn it between centers using an offset center in the tailstock. I made one from a boring head. Mill a flat on one side of a round one, or find a square one. The flat is used to set a level on to insure that it is parallel to the bed. The HLV
    Tail stock can't be offset for taper turning, so this works well. It works on adjustable tail stocks also if you don't want to keep readjusting it each time you use it. Follow rests don't work for taper turning, as the diameter changes.

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    The taper I am able to cut using my dro and compound. The problem is chatter turning the 5/8” to down 3/8”. One of nice things on these lathe is being able to change feeds and speeds under power. I tried multiple left and right tool holders along different inserts and nose radius.

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    Some kind of taper attachment would make your life a little easier for a 7-1/2" long taper: Doesn't have to be complicated , just some slide way mounted on to the rear T slot with a couple of stout angle brackets.

    The steady rest is the issue: with a taper there's nothing conveniently parallel on which to track a moving follower.

    I wonder if you could use a fixed steady? (probably not the hardinge one! which tends to get in the way) - I'm thinking something like a bar extending from headstock ring to perhaps tailstock with one or more fingers adding support and damping to the work. (sort of a longer version of my close-up steady - see below)

    Bill
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dims.jpg   close-up-steady-rest-angles.jpg   taper-attachement-place.jpg  

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    I am assuming the HLV does not have a set over tailstock. Several years ago I asked JRIOWA about doing some how to's in this Hardinge/Bridgeport section. This is one I was going to do but never got around to it.
    If the photos are not self explanatory please ask questions.
    Well a couple of quick explanations. The lathe came with a 6 in collet closer, easy enough to adapt to a lathe dog driver. Used a shop made HS steel center in the boring head, would buy a carbide one if I could find it especially for production.
    ajustablecenter-2.jpgtaperturningrs.jpgajustablecenter-1rs.jpg

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    Same thing I am doing.

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    Nice setup. Looking at the Hardinge follower, is there one that guys have been using to modify, or plans to make a better one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MilGunsmith View Post
    Same thing I am doing.
    I had the photos on hand to show using a boring head that you described in post #3 and thought the improvised face plate would be helpful to the OP and others. I did buy the boring head for this reason when I bought the HLV-H 25 years ago. Never had a need till 2 years ago when the photos were taken.
    You might be interested to know the blank being taper turned is for a drill guide for centering holes to be drilled in barrel channels for sling swivels. It was made for a fellow that did not have access to machine tools. Mock up on a 2X4.
    drillguiders.jpg

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    Seems that many aren't too fond of the standard hardinge follow-rest; it isn't configured very well for aloris-type tool-blocks, and it won't fit without modification if you have a DRO scale. I have a couple of jury-rigged ones for small parts; follow rests are a pain to use IMO, and I'll try to contend with the congested between-centers even on shortish small parts before trying to use them. Also, to reduce the cutting force and deflection, a good sharp honed HSS/Cobalt bit with cutting oil may work out better than carbide (assuming that 416 is not hardened).


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