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    Default I bought a HLV

    I just agreed to buy this machine. It's a HLV in nice condition. I went and saw it under power, everything seems to work, the feed motor is quiet and smooth. All the controls are smooth and I can't find any play in the slides or tailstock ram.

    Collecting it next weekend. I presume it's an early 5" bed HLV (I didn't know there were two different bed widths when I looked at it).

    hlv.jpg

    Quite excited to be getting such a nice lathe, it'll be a nice workshop compliment to my 10ee.

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    Very nice, Peter. Congrats. What year is that? I have not seen one with the speed indicator on the lower cabinet in a very, very long time. I'm thinking on the order of 30 years or so.

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    Might like this. I did. I contacted this guy and made a few suggestions.

    Rebuilding a Hardinge HLV Toolroom Lathe

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    It was made about 1950-1955, judging by the speed control. The serial number can get the exact year.

    The 7" bed model came out in 1960.

    Larry

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    Thanks for the info, that HLV rebuild site is very handy.

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    I've tidied the parts list somewhat and made a PDF for easy reference:

    Dropbox - HLV Parts List.pdf

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    Well, I got my HLV home last night, it took 5 of us about 4 hours to drag it up a narrow dirt alleyway using brute force and a cable winch. It arrived unscathed except for some chipped paint but that's of no consequence since it'll be getting painted anyway.

    First impressions are fairly good. There's no glaring mechanical faults though the controls are very sticky so it's clearly been standing a while. I saw it briefly under power so I know that electrically it should be sound and the inside of the cabinet looks unmolested and clean.

    I'll put up some decent res pics when I get it into place and give it a wipe over.

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    I found the serial number for my UK machine stamped into the top of the collet closer boss, under a thick coat of paint. It's number 0688, I wonder if anyone can identify the year from that serial #?

    I also took a photo of the inside of the cabinet, in case anyone needs it for reference in the future.

    hlvcabinet.jpg

    Here's the data plate on the electrical cabinet. I take it that the control voltage means that the feed motor control can be wired directly to 240V single phase?

    hlv-data-plate.jpg

    can anyone tell me how the wiring for high/low speed is done in the motor? Is it two completely separate windings for each speed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter. View Post
    can anyone tell me how the wiring for high/low speed is done in the motor? Is it two completely separate windings for each speed?
    From the photo it looks to be the standard two=speed consequent pole motor. You can think of the
    windings as a ring, with six terminals along its perimeter. On one speed three of the connections
    are open and line goes to the other three. In the other speed three of the leads are shorted
    together and the other three get line power.

    You'll find that the low speed is one half the hp of the high speed. Typical is 3/4 and 3/8 hp for
    a machine that vintage.

    Somebody has done you the favor, I think, of replacing the selenium rectifier with a more modern
    bridge rectifier for the feed motor.

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    Welcome to the Hardinge club, I too have a similar HLV which I have been using for about 10 years. I hope you have a coolant pump and collet closer assembly as the machine comes into its own when used with collets.
    I am sure that you have heard of ZMT, who are a good source of all things Hardinge. Feel free to PM me if you need help.
    Peter

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter. View Post
    I found the serial number for my UK machine stamped into the top of the collet closer boss, under a thick coat of paint. It's number 0688, I wonder if anyone can identify the year from that serial #?
    The last time I needed to do that I called their 1-800 number in New York. Form the looks of it the year is somewhere in the 1950-1955 range.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jim rozen View Post
    From the photo it looks to be the standard two=speed consequent pole motor. You can think of the
    windings as a ring, with six terminals along its perimeter. On one speed three of the connections
    are open and line goes to the other three. In the other speed three of the leads are shorted
    together and the other three get line power.

    You'll find that the low speed is one half the hp of the high speed. Typical is 3/4 and 3/8 hp for
    a machine that vintage.

    Somebody has done you the favor, I think, of replacing the selenium rectifier with a more modern
    bridge rectifier for the feed motor.
    Thanks Jim, I checked out consequent pole motor connections and I get the sequence now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Colman View Post
    Welcome to the Hardinge club, I too have a similar HLV which I have been using for about 10 years. I hope you have a coolant pump and collet closer assembly as the machine comes into its own when used with collets.
    I am sure that you have heard of ZMT, who are a good source of all things Hardinge. Feel free to PM me if you need help.
    Peter

    Thanks Peter,

    I got the pump but no closer and just a single collet. It was said to have several collets but the guy who knew about it was off on holiday so I'm waiting to see if there are any more.

    It's a shame they don't use 2j as I have a full rack of Hardinge 2j collets.

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    Thanks to Mark Rand who posted a photo of his wiring diagram,which matches my machine very well. I've cleaned it up somewhat and attached it below for future reference.

    hardinge-hlv-wiring-diagram-earlyuk.jpg

    Large version - Dropbox - Hardinge HLV Wiring Diagram Early UK.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter. View Post
    It's a shame they don't use 2j as I have a full rack of Hardinge 2j collets.
    Peter,

    There are (Hardinge) Sjogren closers out here in the Colonies in 2J with backs for both of the common Hardinge spindle noses. My two are on D1-3 backsides for my 10EE's. I also have a Hardinge 'loop' closer on D1-3 for 2J - far the better bit of kit, actually, if 'speed' matters.

    Given the cost of 2J collets, and you already HAVING those, I'd be happy to go find a Sjogren and get it 'cross the pond to yah if there's nothing handier in Blighty.

    I don't know the HLV's bore, but 2J might have required a 2-piece Franken-drawtube if either wheel or lever REAR closer was to be utilized.

    A 10EE's is, of course "bore-challenged" to begin with, so I've steered clear of drawtubes entirely.

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    Oh I didn't know that 2j and 5c were compatible. I'm going to try a 2j in the HLV spindle and see what it fits like.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter. View Post
    Oh I didn't know that 2j and 5c were compatible. I'm going to try a 2j in the HLV spindle and see what it fits like.
    ?? 5C and 2J aren't even CLOSE to 'compatible'.

    "Nose closers" as a class simply ignore spindle bore and drawtube limitations just as faceplates, 2-J, 3-J, 4-J, 6-Jaw, and magnetic chucks do. I have all except 3-J. Pride, y'see.



    Ex: On a 10EE, the larger several 2J have to be worked with pre-cut slugs, not bar-stock, as the max collet ID is greater than spindle bore. I suspect that is so with an HLV as well, hence the 'nose art' offered from Hardinge themselves as Sjogren and 'loop' (more families of collets than just 5C and 2J BTW..)..

    For the spanner-operated outer-edge taper closers for the 5C 'family' of step and pot chucks to 7" diameter, I had to get a 'false nose' - a threaded Hardinge - to use them.

    Same again with my Jacobs 9XX, ER-40, and Burnerd Multisize. D1 mounts, all.

    Even my 5C - which could work on a 10EE with a drawtube, are D1-3 nose-mounted key-crankers so I need not deal with drawtubes.

    Which spindle nose does your HLV have?

    I do not see D1 locks back of the chuck in the only photo. The other options are the famous Hardinge taper, and a threaded one, also Hardinge-proprietary. Closers for both are 'out there'.

    In fact, Sjogren and 'loop' nose-closers can be had for all of the above, plus "A" short-taper and "L" long-taper.

    Pity it isn't D1-3 - you could share tooling budget with your 10EE.

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    Mine has internal 5c taper and 4 degree Hardinge Taper Loc on the outside..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter. View Post
    Mine has internal 5c taper and 4 degree Hardinge Taper Loc on the outside..
    May as well lay-in a drawtube for 5C, too, then. Commonality makes them about the cheapest collets out there to acquire, most especially if one wants hex, square, internal expander, step, or pot chucks. I have, but avoid using the ignorant rounds as all my other collet families do a better job.

    Page Two:


    The taper lock is a pretty good system, actually.

    Hardinge tried to convince others to adopt it, even. Few - if even ANY - did so.

    The 'good news' in that is that there is plenty of hardware out there for it partly because it doesn't fit much of anything BUT a Hardinge, so has not motored-off to other machines as D1, A, or L taper goods are won't to do.

    I'll have a recce and see wot's on the 'bay over here.

    UPDATE: First recce sez not a good week. More sad ones than happy ones, more L(X) and D1(X) than Hardinge taper. Will try again, going forward.

    What closer system are you using for the 2J when used on your 10EE?

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    the 2j collets go in my Sjogren speed chuck, D1-3 mount.


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