I have a small mill and want to remove .001 from a plate Beginner here

How can i connect these 2 together to use with my vertical mill? I just need to remove .001 from a 3 inch diameter plate

Unless you're dealing with a very hard steel plate, you're not using the right tool for the job. And when used with a Bridgeport, you're going to find that wheel skates all over the workpiece and could cause damage.

I'd suggest you look to a few other forums that are oriented more towards hobby and home shop machinists. You're going to get better (and more patient) advice for the sort of work you're doing.

TeckJohn said:

View attachment 290826View attachment 290827 How can i connect these 2 together to use with my vertical mill? I just need to remove .001 from a 3 inch diameter plate

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Leave the abrasive wheel TF alone. It is the "consumable" part in this scenario, and will in the fullness of time want replaced with another one ... wear or change of grit, either way... which will have the same diameter center hole.

Alter the arbour instead. It is EASIER, as well.

Remove the removable lugs.

Mount the face/shell mill arbour in your are-ate AKA "often EATEN", let's-pretend-we-are-a-collet-system spindle.

Configure the mill for high speed.

Apply "backed" abrasive. Flat and true. You can DO this accurately ..if you want to badly enough. By "feel", even.

"Backed" as-in fabric roll stretched over a nice, flat, handy to hold onto length of metal. So it produces a nice, flat shape. Not a bunch of curves.

A modest taper? That you can live with. So long as it is "fatter" towards the arbour body, not towards the tip. Which.. ta da.. is actually "natural" if you are going to have any SIGNIFICANT deviation at all.

Only the "shape" AKA "OD", gets progressively smaller ON the OD.

Rather slowly. "Patience" is your friend.

The good news is that "patience" works for waaay less than minimum wage.

Whether expecting wotever you are expecting that abrasive wheel to DO is a good idea or bad? Or need a bushing, stack of washers, or a NEW central fastener?

All that is above my current pay grade.

I cheat like a bastard and use mills for milling, lathes for turning, grinders for grinding.

And are-ate not at all. It sorta "telegraphs" the message: "the mill back of me is a wimp-ass POS".

TeckJohn said:

View attachment 290826View attachment 290827 How can i connect these 2 together to use with my vertical mill? I just need to remove .001 from a 3 inch diameter plate

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1. Remove black bolt from arbor. Measure diameter of shaft. Cut a thick washer for the shaft and then slot the washer. Place washer on arbor.
2. Place cup on arbor.
3. Cut another washer for the inside of the cup.
4. Lock cup with black bolt.

I made something like this from a solid bar. It works fine without any locking tabs on the arbor.

rons said:

1. Remove black bolt from arbor. Measure diameter of shaft. Cut a thick washer for the shaft and then slot the washer. Place washer on arbor.
2. Place cup on arbor.
3. Cut another washer for the inside of the cup.
4. Lock cup with black bolt.

I made something like this from a solid bar. It works fine without any locking tabs on the arbor.

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Please. "Drive lugs". A "locking tab" is a different animal altogether. You'd have to understand stresses on face mills and such?

You... also had a Hardinge lathe. Would rather MAKE a warsher than just reach in the box for a stock one, anyway. That Engineering degree does that to yah?

He... seems to NOT have. Yet. The lathe. Not the other handicap.

Nor did either of yah think to choose a METRIFUCKATED arbor ...that wudda "just fit" a metrifuckated cup wheel?

But there yah have it.

More than just the ONE (perpetual) newbie as thinks grinding on a mill is a "good idea"?

Removing very little material, especially if the machine is not very rigid, is a big challenge, even using abrasive wheels (generally, you do not have enough rotational speed in a mill spindle to achieve decent surface speed on the grinding wheel).

Your best bet of removing as close as possible to 0.001" is to glue a piece of sandpaper to a flat surface and carefully move your piece on top of it, making sure that it doesn't rock.

If you want to attempt it on a mill, your best chance of success is by using a fly cutter with a very sharp HSS (not carbide) cutting tip.

Paolo

Watch out with using a mill for a grinder..heat may sick-up the part and you may take .003 to .005 or warp the part.

For less than the price of the grinding wheel a grind shop with take .001 with ease and safe for the part.

You might use a new/sharp citter/end mill. zquare up thw part surface to be near dead flat..mill the part .0002 .0003 per pass and skim the part to size. Yes it the part is file soft...If hard send it to tha grind shop. see right off with a nice chip/shave if the cutter is sharp enough to skim.

fly cutter if the mill is tramed to get .001 close.

I don't like WD but for the end mill it might help, for the fly cutter Wd will go flyind.

between tram error and table being flexible and as slide locks tighten it moves all over the place I would say removing just .001" is being over optimistic
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I usually take a precision ground block of steel and use Stikit sandpaper and hand lap part if trying to improve finish. even if using 100grit it can take some time to remove .0002" especially if part is larger than 10sq inches. some parts are usually already milled flat +/- and mostly just need a better finish (remove mill marks), mill marks are often at least .0002" deep
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stikit sandpaper - Google Search

TeckJohn...
You should find a guy near by who has a surface grinder and trade a litlle mill time for some grinding time. Your small part is only a half hour grinding job..

Abrasive gets into the works of a mill and wears it out in a very short time..It is not worth messing a mill for a few parts..
and a $200 wheel ..likely someone at a real grinding shop would run that part for $50 ..or $20 on his lunch time.