Inspecting a HLV-H thats not under power - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    How did you find the lathe? CL, Facebook marketplace etc?

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    Quote Originally Posted by L Vanice View Post
    There are too many motors in that lathe to hook a single VFD to the input plug. Though I did read somewhere that the newest VFD's can handle that sort of circuit. Maybe. A rotary phase converter is the easy way to power it from a single phase supply because it is as simple as hooking it up to the input plug on the lathe and making no changes to the lathe wiring.
    Makes sense, this is what I was thinking would be the case. I will call some modern VFD manufacturers and ask before I spring for a RPC. If nothing else I’ll learn some more.

    Quote Originally Posted by L Vanice View Post
    Did you get the operator manual?
    I didn’t yet, but could be in the boxes of stuff I’ll pick up tomorrow.

    Quote Originally Posted by L Vanice View Post
    Squeezing a split collet without a piece of stock in it is bad for the collet.
    This makes so much sense. I’ll take a look and see if it came with any solid collets.

    Thanks!


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  3. #23
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    Congrats!

    Do not run the collet closer installed without something chucked in an actual collet (the drawbar can bang around in the spindle and damage the drawabar). As Larry said also, 5c collets should not be closed without having a properly fitting piece of stock in them (~-.005 max) nominal collet dia). You can however use the collet closer with a chuck, it's sometimes handy to chuck a "stop" in a collet while using the chuck also.

    I have one that's a couple of years younger. Get a small rotary converter (or a bigger one to be able to use on other tools). The HLVH's have three 3p motors (and a 120-volt control-transformer) which is not conducive to running off of a VFD. This has been discussed at length here, and the general opinion is that if the electricals are intact and unmolested, a RPC is the easiest, and maintains all the OEM function--just hook it up (make sure the manufactured-leg of the RPC output does NOT go to the 120v control transformer).

    The main thing before firing it up is to make sure the carriage lube pump works properly, there is oil in the apron (ATF fluid, there is a drain in the bottom of the apron), change leadscrew greased, reeves drive floating bushings greased, a few drops of oil on the brake cork. And, be careful not to crash anything! Also, pull the compound off, clean and oil with way-lube (it is easy to take apart and maintain). A big strap-wrench is handy for removing chucks. Also, ensure that the threading dial is in "feed" before cranking up the speed.

    Looks like a great deal; I don't mean to question the complete "..only driven by a little old machinist on Sunday for two years, then parked in the garage for 15 years.." history, but it appears to be repainted, and some nameplates appear to be replaced (some are a little different than the OEM plates, and for example the speed dial on the carriage feed). Have fun!

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  5. #24
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    You won't be able to do any metric treads without a metric gear box. Should cost around a easy $950.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rons View Post
    You won't be able to do any metric treads without a metric gear box. Should cost around a easy $950.
    As mentioned in post #1 and as shown in the photos, it is an EM model that does metric just fine. There should be a separate cast iron quadrant with some gears that are needed to cut 10 TPI. Those things are often missing from used HLV-H lathes.

    Larry

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  8. #26
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    Default Inspecting a HLV-H thats not under power

    Quote Originally Posted by car2 View Post
    Congrats!

    Do not run the collet closer ....
    Thanks for all this info! Saving this for later reference when I do get around to powering it up

    Quote Originally Posted by car2 View Post
    Looks like a great deal; I don't mean to question the complete "..only driven by a little old machinist on Sunday for two years, then parked in the garage for 15 years.." history, but it appears to be repainted, and some nameplates appear to be replaced (some are a little different than the OEM plates, and for example the speed dial on the carriage feed). Have fun!
    It absolutely was repainted at some point. Closer inspection now that I have it home made that clear. But, doesn’t bother me in the least. At some point I have to quit pinching myself and accept I just got a hlv-h em for $7k. Inspecting a HLV-H thats not under power


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  10. #27
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    Well, it’s home and chilling in the middle of my tiny shop for now until I find a permanent spot for it.





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    Quote Originally Posted by triumph406 View Post
    How did you find the lathe? CL, Facebook marketplace etc?
    It was posted on Craigslist. The ad just said “lathe, 3ph” and had one photo.

    I saw the ad 10 minutes after it was posted and emailed right away with my phone number. The owner called me and he agreed to take it off Craigslist when I told him I’d for sure buy it.

    Total lucky shot. Right time, right place.


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  14. #29
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    Nice score!

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithprocess View Post
    Thanks for all this info! Saving this for later reference when I do get around to powering it up


    It absolutely was repainted at some point. Closer inspection now that I have it home made that clear. But, doesn’t bother me in the least. At some point I have to quit pinching myself and accept I just got a hlv-h em for $7k. Inspecting a HLV-H thats not under power


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Oh I wasn't being critical or reduce your enthusiasm--it looks in really nice shape (could not really tell from the one previous picture), and that is a very good paint-job as well.

    It almost looks professionally refurbished at some point, so maybe part of the "story" is missing. The reason I say that, is that, in addition to the very nice paint and replaced nameplates, there has been enough use where some OEM paint is gone(but now nicely polished) and a few nicks here and there on non-functional parts, but the saddle, and perhaps ways, crosslide look like they may have been newly ground (it's virtually impossible to use one at all withouth getting a few small nicks and scratches on the apron and bed). (If it has been sitting that long, are the gearbox selector knobs frozen? Oil can harden in those tight-fitting bushings and make them difficult/impossible to turn (they can be freed without taking everything apart by removing the knobs and squirting mineral spirits on outside shaft and inside the gearbox, and rotating/pushing the shafts from inside and outside the gearbox (there is a little bit of axial play with the knobs removed).Feel free to post or message if you have any questions--have fun. (Nice set of Hardinge collets too).

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  17. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by car2 View Post
    It almost looks professionally refurbished at some point, so maybe part of the "story" is missing. The reason I say that, is that, in addition to the very nice paint and replaced nameplates, there has been enough use where some OEM paint is gone(but now nicely polished) and a few nicks here and there on non-functional parts, but the saddle, and perhaps ways, crosslide look like they may have been newly ground (it's virtually impossible to use one at all withouth getting a few small nicks and scratches on the apron and bed). (If it has been sitting that long, are the gearbox selector knobs frozen? Oil can harden in those tight-fitting bushings and make them difficult/impossible to turn (they can be freed without taking everything apart by removing the knobs and squirting mineral spirits on outside shaft and inside the gearbox, and rotating/pushing the shafts from...
    It does seem like it was professionally refurbished, definitely freshly ground or brand new surfaces all around, but as you pointed out there are little nicks that show it has been used.

    The gear selectors seem to work fine. Will know for sure once I get a RPC and can actually test everything fully.

    I did notice that the inside of the spindle has 3 distinct lumps, presumably from the collet taper gaps. Haven’t run an indicator over them but I can feel them with my finger.


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    Congrats,

    You won the lottery on this one.

    Enjoy,

    Steve

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    You are one lucky man - congrats.
    Glad it worked out as you were hoping (or better)
    Martin

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  22. #34
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    Geez.

    You got kids?

    Want to adopt?

    I'm not all that young, but I can be plenty immature! LOL!

    Nice Duck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by trevj View Post
    Geez.

    You got kids?

    Want to adopt?

    I'm not all that young, but I can be plenty immature! LOL!

    Nice Duck!
    Lol.

    The duc actually just went to a new home to offset the cost of the hlvh-h. Always trading one toy for another.

    I still have my early xlch’s though!


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  25. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithprocess View Post
    It does seem like it was professionally refurbished, definitely freshly ground or brand new surfaces all around, but as you pointed out there are little nicks that show it has been used.

    I did notice that the inside of the spindle has 3 distinct lumps, presumably from the collet taper gaps. Haven’t run an indicator over them but I can feel them with my finger.
    That's interesting. The lobes would indeed presumably be wear from lots of collet-work. It would seem odd not to regrind the 5c taper (if worn) with a full refurb., where other parts were ground. Cheers

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    Just a note on rotary phase converters. Get one for the largest machine you ever anticipate owning. In my case that was 3 HP. The Hardinge and any of the smaller machines ran fine on it. At the time I was using one we had about 15 machines running off it. Each machine turned on acted as an additional converter. Probably could have run every machine simultaneously. As long as no single machine exceeds the capacity of your converter it will work fine. We eventially got a Hardinge GT at that place and it had its own CNC rated 5 HP converter.

    We have since moved and have real 3 phase now and really see no difference except we do not have to start the converter in the morning.

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  28. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by FredC View Post
    Just a note on rotary phase converters. Get one for the largest machine you ever anticipate owning. In my case that was 3 HP...
    Thanks! I have a baldor 10hp 3ph motor sitting here. Probably going to build my own RCP with start and run capacitors and relay to drop the start cap out. Then I’ll make a dedicated 3ph sub panel next to my main house panel and run breakers and outlets


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    Digging into the electrical and noticed the forward reverse switch was disconnected, as well as the on/off. Seems odd. Perhaps the previous owner just hard wired it to run in forward all the time, and with an external on/off...?
    Can anybody link me to a pdf electrical diagram for this machine?



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    I think that all that may be going on there is that someone added that keylock switch, that is not OEM; maybe they just cut the wires to the fwd/ref while "disabling" that if they didn't have the key. Someone also may have intentionally disabled the reverse switch to keep people from running it in reverse for various reasons (chucks coming loose, damage to threading gears, etc). Bypass that and you're probably good to go. The main power is of course turned on with the magnetic relay controlled by the pod switch. The electricals "look" like they haven't been tampered with.

    Schematics (posted previously but quicker to repost than search)

    hlv-h-schmatica001.jpghlv-h-schmatica002.jpghlv-h-schmatica003.jpghlv-h-schmatica004.jpg

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